Members rccolt45 Posted December 19, 2011 Members Report Posted December 19, 2011 Hi guys, I am preparing to take delivery on a new sewing machine having hand sewed all my work. (Mostely holsters) when I hand sew a cut a stich line and then use the over stich wheel to make the stich marks. I won't be doing that with a machine, but what should I be doing. My question is do I make a crease line first then stich over it? How do you make sure the stich ends up where you want it? Quote
Moderator Art Posted December 19, 2011 Moderator Report Posted December 19, 2011 Some folks use the edge guide attachment to sew the desired amount from the edge. I use a screw crease to lay in a crease and then I sew in that. I use a Dixon screw crease usually, but for intricate or tight places like belt slots I use a Tandy screw crease or a Gomph that is smaller than the Tandy. For stitching inside the work, I use a tickler freehand or against a straight edge. You have to practice in the beginning to get used to making the machine go where you want it to go. Art Hi guys, I am preparing to take delivery on a new sewing machine having hand sewed all my work. (Mostely holsters) when I hand sew a cut a stich line and then use the over stich wheel to make the stich marks. I won't be doing that with a machine, but what should I be doing. My question is do I make a crease line first then stich over it? How do you make sure the stich ends up where you want it? Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
KAYAK45 Posted December 19, 2011 Report Posted December 19, 2011 Your first question is oft discussed on this forum and some do, some don't! I do put a crease or a groove on the front side, never on the back. Your second question is easier. PRACTICE, PRACTICE AND THEN PRACTICE. Using your regular needle, no thread and no bobbin, use thin cardboard or poster board. Make a straight line and sew EXACTLY on the line. Keep practicing. Next start sewing a second line next to the first and work your way up to several paralell lines. Next DRAW random curves and do the same. Next DRAW circles and do the same. Practice like this for ..several hours.. until you think you got it. Then.. try with thread to do the same on practice, grooved leather. Good luck. PS: What machine did you get? You can get more help here for a beginner if we know the machine make and model. Kevin Quote Once believed in GOD and the DOllAR...... Hello God!
Members rccolt45 Posted December 19, 2011 Author Members Report Posted December 19, 2011 Thanks for the info guys - I got a Cobra Class 4. Any help or things I should know please feel free. Quote
KAYAK45 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Posted December 20, 2011 Great, Great machine. Goood choice. I have a Cowboy 4500...about the same. I wish I had purchased a "4" class as my first machine, then I wouldnt have all these others, HHAHAHA Follow my first advice on practice and then make sure you thread it correctly. Do not change tensions until you know what that does to the entire stitch. Steve will have set it up for you for holsters. If you have a problem, it's more than likely OPERATOR ERROR. tHATS ok WE ALL DID IT. Keep posting ????. Kevin Quote Once believed in GOD and the DOllAR...... Hello God!
Members Jimbob Posted December 20, 2011 Members Report Posted December 20, 2011 yup, practice, practice, more practice....can u tell I am still doing it too....practice!! U get there, soon....u'll see!! Good luck!! James Quote http://www.elfwood.com/~alien883 First it is just leather....then it is what-ever I can dream off...
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