Iwb Holster - Looking For Feedback

[malabar]

Thanks for the feedback Malabar. I could probably stand to trim a little of the sweat shield away, but none of my customers have complained about the way cut mine. That being said - if I were to cut the sweat shield enough to clear the thumb completely for the "thumbs high" grip you mention and linked to, there might as well be no sweat shield at all. The proper grip for a 1911 is to have the thumb riding on top of the thumb safety, yet most people would prefer to have the thumb safety completely covered by the sweat shield. I'm afraid this is one of those areas where you simply can't have it both ways. I've chosen to cut the sweat shield where you can get a nice firm grip on the gun to draw it from the holster without interfering with the sweat shield, but this is not to say the thumb won't have to be moved slightly for a "proper" shooting grip.

Yeah, that's a really good point. I agree that you want the thumb safety covered on a .45. The guys I was crafting my tactical IWBs for shoot Glocks and SIGs.

And in all fairness, It's a choice I give to my customers -- the fuller sweatguard tends to be more comfortable, while the smaller one allows for a better grip. And you can still manage a proper "thumbs high" grip with the larger sweatguard -- you just have to get in the habit of putting your thumb down the back of the guard -- and most folks seem to find that awkward. That seems like the only solution, though, for 1911 shooters who use the thumbs high grip.

tk

[malabar]

Good insight Malabar! I cut my sweat guards with a curve to clear as much of the thumb as possible. Would this one be sufficient for your requirements, or would it need to go even further?

That looks like a good approach to me. I've attached a photo showing the cutaway on on of my "tactical" IWBs for comparison, and it has a similar deep. arc. Since you want your thumb on the safety, and the you want the safety covered, I don't see a way around from having to put your thumb on top of the leather. I think the critical issue is keeping the base of the thumb unhindered -- and that curve might really help.

I noticed that you're using a single attachment point for your straps. I have assumed that with a single attachment point the flexing straps would put torque on the screw and loosen it over time. Does this not happen? Do you loctite the screw of something similar? A single attachment point gives a fair bit more design freedom.....

tk

Edited January 1, 2012 by malabar

[woodandsteel]

That looks like a good approach to me. I've attached a photo showing the cutaway on on of my "tactical" IWBs for comparison, and it has a similar deep. arc. Since you want your thumb on the safety, and the you want the safety covered, I don't see a way around from having to put your thumb on top of the leather. I think the critical issue is keeping the base of the thumb unhindered -- and that curve might really help.

I noticed that you're using a single attachment point for your straps. I have assumed that with a single attachment point the flexing straps would put torque on the screw and loosen it over time. Does this not happen? Do you loctite the screw of something similar? A single attachment point gives a fair bit more design freedom.....

tk

Yeah, I think holster design is always going to be a series of compromises. An IWB holster is never going to be as fast as an owb "speed" holster and, in designing one, you trade some of that accessibility for concealability and comfort.

The screws on single point attachments do loosen up some over time. I just snug them up if they ever come loose, but a light Lock-tite would work.

[TwinOaks]

You can use 6/32 just fine and the heads recess nicely in a line 24 snap with no modification. I have used 8/32, but had to reduce the head by chucking the threads up in a drill and applying a mill file as it spun.

I've never had any issues with the size/strength.

As far as the little prongs on the t-nuts......Grasshopper, you have forgotten the most important rule of this craft: If it doesn't work...MODIFY IT!!!! I routinely use a pair of side cutters/ wire nips to chop the points off those little prongs. It changes it from a small sharp triangle to a smaller sharp trapezoid....and it stays put just fine.

[steelhawk]

I trim my sweat shield enough so the holster back doesn't cover the magazine release. Nothing is more irritating than having the magazine fall out, seemingly all by itself.

I also use blue loctite on the threads.

Edited January 1, 2012 by steelhawk

[particle]

Well, here it is. This customer asked me to make several items in matching colors. I'm overall pretty happy with the IWB, but I think the leather might be a tad thick (8 oz). I'm not happy with the snaps. They're very difficult to snap closed on a double-layer belt. Perhaps I didn't leave enough clearance between the top and the belt and the bottom of the snap (there isn't much clearance at all). How much do you normally leave? I was trying to get it tight on the belt, but I guess I got it too tight... Feedback is much appreciated.

[wizard of tragacanth]

That is a very sharp looking ensemble!

[Shooter McGavin]

Love the mod to the dummy gun!

[Colt Hammerless]

I see you also airbrushed the edges on the belt loops. I've done this as well, though I keep getting it too much towards the center and wind up with only a thin stripe of the base color showing. Looks neat, but I've been trying to get it more like you have there. Nice work!

[woodandsteel]

Get ready... you're about to get a LOT more holster orders!

The holster looks great. I agree that 8oz is a little thick for IWB holsters, especially when you've got the wraparound reinforcement piece. 6-7 oz will be plenty thick for that design.

I've done the same thing with making the snap loops to tight as well. I measure 4.25" center to center for the holes for my snap posts and it fits snugly, but works for 1.5" double layer belts. I also wet form them around a 1.5"x0.25" paint stick when molding, and then snap them around a belt while still damp to make sure they'll fit.