Oil Dye Question

[steelhawk]

I used some Feibings Oil Dye on my latest holster after forming. Normally I used alcohol based dye. Does the oil based dye take the place of an application of Neatsfoot oil or should I go ahead and do this step?

[woodandsteel]

I use oil dye before stitching and assembling, and then bake the holster after wet forming to harden it. Then I give it a light coat of neatsfoot, to condition the leather and give the color more depth and consistency. I've found that if I skip the neatsfoot, the resolene finish will soak into the leather unevenly and get blotchy.

I've been thinking of forgoing the neatsfoot oil and use Leather Balm with Atom Wax for that step, but I haven't tried it.

If you dyed after the wet forming, you probably don't need to use neatsfoot oil, but it might help.

[Colt Hammerless]

Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes are still alcohol based. I dye my pieces before forming. After forming I heat dry them, and after they're completely dry (I wait until the next day,) I oil them with olive oil.

[Spinner]

I don't make holsters, but on my large wet formed tank bibs I do oil after using the Pro Oil dye for the same reasons as above. The dye doesn't have enough true oils to bring a hide back to where it should be so an application of your favorite oil, mine is Mink Oil currently, after dying and/or forming is a good idea.