Burnishing edges ....

[yaklady]

One more option to add to all good ideas here is a trick I learned from a local leatherworker: Mix a little turpentine with some thinly sliced beeswax. It takes some time and patience to mix, but eventually forms a thick paste. I've only tried it with a nylon edger, but it produced a very nice edge. Of course, it has the typical turpentine odor for awhile, but that dissipates after a day or two.

Dave M

Did you learn that one from Mike Button?

[pavilionpony]

I dampen the edges, rub parafin (spelling..?) wax on them, then rub the wax again on a piece of canvas. The heat from rubbing it back and forth seems to smooth it out really nice.

[tonyc1]

I pretty much do it like Andy but it depends on the article. I used to apply an edge stain made from a powder added to water called bismark red (redish/brown). To this was added some pearl glue. I think this is also known as hide glue. Now I make my edge stains (not dye) from bricklayers oxide powders of various shades and add a good dollop of PVA glue. On large strap goods like harness traces or stirrup leathers I anchor the strap to the bench and using a canvas rub rag, I grasp the strap and grip hard as I walk backward. I repeat this as necessary. I had never used gum trag, in fact I had never heard of it until a few years ago. One day I noticed that various species of gum tree (eucalypt) oozed this thick, dark and hard sap. I thought gum tree, gum trag, I then collected some and disolved it in boiling water and when cooled somewhat I applied it to the edge of some leather and used the rub rag technique. The result was miraculous. I mostly use this solution now instead of just plain water. I also use a few burnishing impliments.

1. A burnishing stick.

2. A burnishing iron which can be heated over a flame kinda like hot creasing.

3. A bone burnisher which is the impliment on the left. It is simply a polished bone stuck into a handle like an awl and is very handy for getting into tight areas.

The sap that oozes out of wattle trees is very good also, Barra.

Tony.

[viejo]

I found that little nylon wheel that I'd bought from Tandy and put aside many years ago. The first time I tried it, I couldn't figure out how it was supposed to work.

I fit it to a spare mandrell for my Dremel tool today. I think that wetting the edges and running that wheel along the edge at 30,000rpm may well do the trick.

[swivelsphinx]

I find that having a variety of burnishing tools is helpful. I have used actual bone folders (I make them out of cattle and deer bone), antler burnishers, nylon "slickers", and folded pieces of light canvas. It helps to use an edger first, and moistening the entire edge slightly doesn't hurt either. I like gum tracaganth on by belt edges and portruding bag seams too!

Did you learn that one from Mike Button?

I wonder if an amber furniture wax or bowling alley wax might not give similar results... hmmm....

[HandyAndy]

I just made a smaller burnisher for my Dremel! I got a 1/2"long, 3/8 wide nylon spacer for 25 cents. I hammered a cutting blade mandrel into the hole then used a needle file to shape the groove.

Sorry for the cell phone quality.

[esantoro]

I just made a smaller burnisher for my Dremel! I got a 1/2"long, 3/8 wide nylon spacer for 25 cents. I hammered a cutting blade mandrel into the hole then used a needle file to shape the groove.

Sorry for the cell phone quality.

Nice looking tool.

[esantoro]

I just got the wood slicker from Weaver. Absolutely wonderful.

Now I'm on the hunt to find 1" hard wood dowels to start experimenting with making my own slickers for my dremel. Does anyone know if The Home Depot or Lowes carries these dowels? I know there are a few places to order online.

Ed

[Luke Hatley]

yes they have the dowell rods that you want.

[esantoro]

If I can't find cocobolo dowels, what types of wood would be good alternatives?

Ed