paedalus Report post Posted January 11, 2012 Hello everybody! As a newcomer to this comunity I have two important things to do : To ask you to accept in advance my appolgies for my poor english. Like in leatherworking, I'm in "trial and error" class To congratulate every one of you for building this forum (and myself for finding it). A place where knoledge, good will, common sense, respect and sharing attitude meets, is a rare find. HAT OFF ! In my European hunt for a stitching machine I came up on a few mechanical beasts. Chances are to get them at a good price, but I'm not shure how are they working, and the sellers seem to know even less. So I put my trust and hope in you, wise ones, to get some answers. no.1 Claes 214 Uncertain feed system. Untertransport und mittgehender Nähfuss means : bottom feed and "going along" needle feet. As my german is not much better than my english, I have my doubts. And the photos doesn't help ME much. http://www.ebay.de/itm/Claes-214-1-schwere-Arm-Nahmaschine-Ledernahmaschine-Sattlernahmaschine-Sattler-/110803106992?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5445088741127884664 no.2 Mauser spezial How in the name of God is this beauty working? http://www.ebay.de/itm/Alte-Mauser-Spezial-Industrienahmaschine-/110802904337?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item19cc5e2511 no.3 A.G. Henkel Am I getting lucky??? Is this a kind of german Union Lockstitch? If it is and I don't get it, I'll have to kill myself in shame and regrets ! http://www.ebay.de/itm/Industrie-Nahmaschine-robuste-Ausfuhrung-/330669022808?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Haushaltsger%C3%A4te_N%C3%A4hmaschinen_PM&hash=item4cfd68de58 no.4 Junker & Ruh sd 28 What is the maximal stitch lenght and heavyest thread for this beatiful mechanical insect? http://www.ebay.de/itm/Junker-Ruh-S-D-28-Hand-Sohlen-Doppelmaschine-Schuhmacher-Sattler-30er-J-/160712223559?pt=Alte_Berufe&hash=item256b31eb47 Praying to hear from You before the auctions end, yours:notworthy: Paedalus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted January 11, 2012 Paedalus I would go for the Claes cylinder arm machine. It will server you best of all those machines. It is bottom feed only, but look at how well it sews hard and thick leather! It can probably be fitted with needles ranging from #140 up to #250 (metric), allowing you to sew with US thread numbers 138 through 415. The big machine is not like a Union Lockstitch, but is similar to a Puritan chainstitch machine. Chainstitch machines are used to sew luggage, golf bags, briefcases and hiking boots. They make a thread chain on the bottom of the material, which is not pleasant to look at. That's why they are only used where the bottom thread is not normally seen. The Junker And Ruh is a sole stitching machine only. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted January 11, 2012 I agree with Wiz, the Claes has bottom feed and a moveabel jump foot. I have a similar feed on one of my Adler machines, and it work very well on leather. Trox Hello everybody! As a newcomer to this comunity I have two important things to do : To ask you to accept in advance my appolgies for my poor english. Like in leatherworking, I'm in "trial and error" class To congratulate every one of you for building this forum (and myself for finding it). A place where knoledge, good will, common sense, respect and sharing attitude meets, is a rare find. HAT OFF ! In my European hunt for a stitching machine I came up on a few mechanical beasts. Chances are to get them at a good price, but I'm not shure how are they working, and the sellers seem to know even less. So I put my trust and hope in you, wise ones, to get some answers. no.1 Claes 214 Uncertain feed system. Untertransport und mittgehender Nähfuss means : bottom feed and "going along" needle feet. As my german is not much better than my english, I have my doubts. And the photos doesn't help ME much. http://www.ebay.de/i...088741127884664 no.2 Mauser spezial How in the name of God is this beauty working? http://www.ebay.de/i...=item19cc5e2511 no.3 A.G. Henkel Am I getting lucky??? Is this a kind of german Union Lockstitch? If it is and I don't get it, I'll have to kill myself in shame and regrets ! http://www.ebay.de/i...=item4cfd68de58 no.4 Junker & Ruh sd 28 What is the maximal stitch lenght and heavyest thread for this beatiful mechanical insect? http://www.ebay.de/i...=item256b31eb47 Praying to hear from You before the auctions end, yours:notworthy: Paedalus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paedalus Report post Posted January 11, 2012 Thanks a lot, Wiz ! I was shure I'll get some answers here. I will go for the Claes machine wich I think would do Junker's job too. The Junker is still tempting for sandals and close to the edge stitching on box-shaped cases and heavy belts. For the aesthetics I was interested in the heavyest thread to use on this machine. This is the info I di'n't find on the net. Any idea about the Mauser ? Thanks again, Paedalus P.S. I was extremely tempted by your ULS, but the transport to Europe would really be prohibitive. When I'll grow up, I'll get myself a Campbell High Lift ! Paedalus I would go for the Claes cylinder arm machine. It will server you best of all those machines. It is bottom feed only, but look at how well it sews hard and thick leather! It can probably be fitted with needles ranging from #140 up to #250 (metric), allowing you to sew with US thread numbers 138 through 415. The big machine is not like a Union Lockstitch, but is similar to a Puritan chainstitch machine. Chainstitch machines are used to sew luggage, golf bags, briefcases and hiking boots. They make a thread chain on the bottom of the material, which is not pleasant to look at. That's why they are only used where the bottom thread is not normally seen. The Junker And Ruh is a sole stitching machine only. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paedalus Report post Posted January 11, 2012 Thank you, Trox! I will go for the Claes although I don't completely understand the "moveable upper foot" part. If I'm lucky, I'll get it for cheap. If not, I'll keep on searching... Anyway, If you ever hear about an extra heavy leather stitcher in Europe somewhere, please let me know! Knut had a cast iron Boss here a few months ago, but I came to late. A Snow White's Coffin Volvo for cheap would be nice too... Paedalus I agree with Wiz, the Claes has bottom feed and a moveabel jump foot. I have a similar feed on one of my Adler machines, and it work very well on leather. Trox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gesa Report post Posted January 11, 2012 Hello Paedalus, the foot will move together with the bottom feeder to move the leather. It helps to sew several layers of leather. The text also says that the engine is old and propbably need to be replaced soon. I would buy the Claes, It looks well cared for. What do you want to sew with it? Gesa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted January 12, 2012 Hi, Here is the Adler machine that Claes is a copy of, this machine sews 14 mm thick leather and have no problem with different layers. It is a spring loaded foot that follows the material back as its feeding with the feed dog ( lower feed) The foot moves up and the spring moves it back forward again. The height on the foot is adjusted on the front thumb screw mechanism. This was the previos generation of saddlers heavy leather stitcher, before todays moddern heavy trippel feed (walking foot) machines. It takes the heavyest threds. I still use this machine, it works very well. The price on that Claes is very low and it look very good too. You can look at www.sieck.de for price comparison. Trox Thank you, Trox! I will go for the Claes although I don't completely understand the "moveable upper foot" part. If I'm lucky, I'll get it for cheap. If not, I'll keep on searching... Anyway, If you ever hear about an extra heavy leather stitcher in Europe somewhere, please let me know! Knut had a cast iron Boss here a few months ago, but I came to late. A Snow White's Coffin Volvo for cheap would be nice too... Paedalus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paedalus Report post Posted January 12, 2012 Hallo Gesa ! You are right ! The Claes seems to be in a very good shape! Mechanical point of wiew, I think I got it. It is not only botom feed, it is not triple feed, nor needle feed, but kind of lower and upper feed. I am working now on a 1966 bottom feed czech Minerva wich is a sewing locomotive! Hard to start, single speed ( fast), straight lines only, hard to stop. I love it, but I need a change !!! I do heavy leather only, and 12mm thick material should be enough ! Finally, the magic of an auction happens in the last 3 minutes. So, wish me luck ! Paedalus Hello Paedalus, the foot will move together with the bottom feeder to move the leather. It helps to sew several layers of leather. The text also says that the engine is old and propbably need to be replaced soon. I would buy the Claes, It looks well cared for. What do you want to sew with it? Gesa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paedalus Report post Posted January 12, 2012 Hi Trox, I finally got the point with the upper feed. THANK YOU! I've been looking on sieck.de for a while and a 205-370 goes for 2500 euro, so you are right! The Claes price is low NOW and it looks to be in really good shape. But (as for any auction) I'll have to wait for the last minutes... Thank you again, Paedalus Hi, Here is the Adler machine that Claes is a copy of, this machine sews 14 mm thick leather and have no problem with different layers. It is a spring loaded foot that follows the material back as its feeding with the feed dog ( lower feed) The foot moves up and the spring moves it back forward again. The height on the foot is adjusted on the front thumb screw mechanism. This was the previos generation of saddlers heavy leather stitcher, before todays moddern heavy trippel feed (walking foot) machines. It takes the heavyest threds. I still use this machine, it works very well. The price on that Claes is very low and it look very good too. You can look at www.sieck.de for price comparison. Trox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted January 13, 2012 Good luck, The foot is not feeding, the spring action is on the return of the foot. Anyway it is a much better feeding system for leather than bottom feed alone. I have machines with trippel feed and with needle feed. I like this jump foot system better than the needle feed, but the tripple feed is best on leather of course. Trox Hi Trox, I finally got the point with the upper feed. THANK YOU! I've been looking on sieck.de for a while and a 205-370 goes for 2500 euro, so you are right! The Claes price is low NOW and it looks to be in really good shape. But (as for any auction) I'll have to wait for the last minutes... Thank you again, Paedalus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anne Bonnys Locker Report post Posted January 16, 2012 The Mauser looks very like some Union Special chain stitch machines so would suspect that there is some tie-up along the way there. As a lover of sewing machines and armaments there are some evocative names on that list!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather Guru Report post Posted January 16, 2012 If I were me I'd get the Adler Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Singermania Report post Posted March 24, 2012 Hi, yes without doubt the Claes is a Singer 45K89 clone with reverse, likewise an Adler 5-27. A brilliant machine, worth a couple of thousand dollars easily. It has the jump foot (walking foot to us generalisers) taken straight from the Singer 45K58 and 89. If you bought it then you have a machine to last you a life time. I have just sold an Adler 5-27 absolutely identical to this one on a lovely old treadle base and was very sad to see it go. Your third machine, the one that is identical to a Puritan, is actually mine, I bought it some time back and expect it along with another 30 odd machines to be coming over the oceans to me as we speak. I have already 1 Puritan and am looking forward to this one coming to make a pair. As Bob says and Jim Beaton also assures me they were the king of the Gladstone bag making machines and a chainstitch. You wouldn't buy this machine for general leather work, you would want to know more about it and use it for a specific task.... most likely in bag making. I know I've only repeated what others have said, but enjoy taking part in the forums from time to time. I've attached a picture of an Adler 5-9 non walking foot so you can see the difference up the left end, ie not walking foot mechanism. Best regards Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimbob Report post Posted March 27, 2012 Hello everybody! As a newcomer to this comunity I have two important things to do : To ask you to accept in advance my appolgies for my poor english. Like in leatherworking, I'm in "trial and error" class To congratulate every one of you for building this forum (and myself for finding it). A place where knoledge, good will, common sense, respect and sharing attitude meets, is a rare find. HAT OFF ! In my European hunt for a stitching machine I came up on a few mechanical beasts. Chances are to get them at a good price, but I'm not shure how are they working, and the sellers seem to know even less. So I put my trust and hope in you, wise ones, to get some answers. no.1 Claes 214 Uncertain feed system. Untertransport und mittgehender Nähfuss means : bottom feed and "going along" needle feet. As my german is not much better than my english, I have my doubts. And the photos doesn't help ME much. http://www.ebay.de/i...088741127884664 no.2 Mauser spezial How in the name of God is this beauty working? http://www.ebay.de/i...=item19cc5e2511 no.3 A.G. Henkel Am I getting lucky??? Is this a kind of german Union Lockstitch? If it is and I don't get it, I'll have to kill myself in shame and regrets ! http://www.ebay.de/i...=item4cfd68de58 no.4 Junker & Ruh sd 28 What is the maximal stitch lenght and heavyest thread for this beatiful mechanical insect? http://www.ebay.de/i...=item256b31eb47 Praying to hear from You before the auctions end, yours:notworthy: Paedalus I second Wiz...the Claes will do u well......if you need any translation or help with German, let me know....I am fluent... Jimbob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
