The "finsih" For A Saddle

[Aurelie]

Hello boys and girls!

I am running out of ideas here...and i really need you to help me find an alternative solution.

Usually for the "finish" of a saddle i do it that way :

1/ olive oil

2/ let it dry

3/ some Skidmore's cream on it

4/ let it dry

5 buff it

and it's good to go!

BUT if this process is acceptable, i find that it lacks some "shiny " aspect

It lacks the shiny aspect i would need for a saddle show

I have seen some terrific saddles , very nice and shiny built by Pedro Pedrini and he has been very kind to point me out some stuff to use for this shiny aspect = > Wyosheene which apparently is replacing the Old good well known "Neat Lac"

Here i am encouterning THE BIG TROUBLE

They can't ship Wyosheene overseas because that's inflammable => so i can forget about it

"Neat Lac" does not exist anymore...

I ve contacted Tandy in UK asking them if they had something similar, and apparently no....

So i am back at square 1....

Any idea of what i could use aside olive oil and skidmore's to get a nice shiny finish??? (that can be shipped overseas without troubles? and that won't ruin the leather?)

I so hate it when things do not go as i wish... :/

[Go2Tex]

Have you considered Fiebings Tan-Kote? Not as shiny a lacquer but much better for the leather.

[Aurelie]

Yup , i ordered some but i thought it was a different product with a different goal in the process

so you would oil the saddle and then add tan kote on it when it s dry?

and this would give a shiny/glossy aspect (even is less than neat lac or whyosheen?)

[Go2Tex]

Yup , i ordered some but i thought it was a different product with a different goal in the process

so you would oil the saddle and then add tan kote on it when it s dry?

and this would give a shiny/glossy aspect (even is less than neat lac or whyosheen?)

Yes. I oil, let it dry a day or so, then add Tan-Kote. It gives a mellow satin sheen. Resolene is better for sealing antique or black dye, but it is harder to re-oil and looks plastic.

[jwwright]

Ditto what Brett said....I also use Tan Kote. JW

[Aurelie]

Ok thanks a lot for those replies, guys

i really appreciate

[steve mason]

In my opinion use 100% neatsfoot oil, then tan cote. Olive oil is for salads.

[Timbo]

Fiebings Atomic Balm with atom wax leaves a nice shine.....always was too shiny for me, but might be what you are looking for.

[Aurelie]

<br />Fiebings Atomic Balm with atom wax leaves a nice shine.....always was too shiny for me, but might be what you are looking for

Just the name of it sounds great!

I am not into the "shiny" thing but the saddle i am building is black

and i find the "glossy" aspect really attractive when i am working the wet leather but when drying it is not so shiny

the glossy aspect highlight the carving

that 's what i am looking for , for that saddle i am bringing into sheridan

Ok , i am going to search where i can find that

thanks guys for replies

@ Steve : i do not like the "sticky " aspect of Neat foot oil ; that's why i use olive oil (i prefer the result ...just a matter of taste )

Edited January 28, 2012 by Aurelie

[Chaed]

I hope Aurelie doesn't mind me reviving this thread for another question. I've been browsing the forum for an answer and pretty much found it. Only problem is that this answer is not compatible with my possibilities:

I'm planning on antiquing my first saddle when it's finished and read pretty much everywhere that you need to seal it first so the antique will work. Unquestioned #1 for this is NeatLac.

I can't get NeatLac in Europe. It's not sold here due to some chemical restrictions (at least that's what they told me) and they won't ship it overseas for me because it's flammable.

I made some scrap experiments with TanKote, but it's not water-resistant. I'd get a heart attack on my first ride in the rain.

I found following possibilities that are shipable:

- Acrylic Resolene

- Saddle Lac

- Leather Sheen

- (Balm w/ Atom Wax <-- although I heard this is not water resistant?)

I want to avoid that uber shiny, plastic-like look and feel at the end.

What do you saddle makers prefer if you desperately want to antique and are out of NeatLac/ClearLac/Wyosheene, or whatever name it goes by these days?