The "finsih" For A Saddle

[Aurelie]

I hope Aurelie doesn't mind me reviving this thread for another question. I've been browsing the forum for an answer and pretty much found it. Only problem is that this answer is not compatible with my possibilities:

I'm planning on antiquing my first saddle when it's finished and read pretty much everywhere that you need to seal it first so the antique will work. Unquestioned #1 for this is NeatLac.

I can't get NeatLac in Europe. It's not sold here due to some chemical restrictions (at least that's what they told me) and they won't ship it overseas for me because it's flammable.

I made some scrap experiments with TanKote, but it's not water-resistant. I'd get a heart attack on my first ride in the rain.

I found following possibilities that are shipable:

- Acrylic Resolene

- Saddle Lac

- Leather Sheen

- (Balm w/ Atom Wax <-- although I heard this is not water resistant?)

I want to avoid that uber shiny, plastic-like look and feel at the end.

What do you saddle makers prefer if you desperately want to antique and are out of NeatLac/ClearLac/Wyosheene, or whatever name it goes by these days?

good question :D

because yes that was my problem to get those products we can't get in europe for those very reasons.....

only solution i found so far but not yet tested :

order those products (at least antique from weaver) from an intermediate that ship those by boat.....

second solution : i gave up wanting that kind of finish

[Frank]

I put Bag Kote on all parts, buff out and let dry for 10-15 minutes. After that I use a Tuff Kote from Weaver and do the same.

[Jbarv Bulls]

I have good luck with Weavers top coat and springfield leathers pro clear. They are similar to Tandys super sheen. Leaves a nice shine, but not as glossy as wyosheen.

[keplerts]

Is Tan Kote and Bag Kote the same thing? If not, what is each one used for? What are the advantages/disadvantages?

Thanks,

Tom

[JAM]

Try RTC (weavers and sheridan leather both carry it). No volatiles, dries really fast, and is the best resist for antiquing I've found (2-3 coats). It goes on thin like water, and dries fast, but let the final coat dry over night before you antique. You can use it as a topcoat when you're done, also. It is kinda shiny.

[lottarope]

Sorry Im not much help in the high shine department. We go for more of a deep glow and highlights in the sun finish. Just our preference. Sometimes well use a light coat of bag coat or glycerine saddle soap buffed to give it some shine.

As this is a thread on finishes maybe I can get some feed back from some of you:

We use U82 top grade saddles oil from weaver and have liked it. anybody have more to say about this product versus other neatsfoot type products.

I have been thinking of trying Bee naturals#1 saddle oil as I have been very impressed with their Rudy's conditioner and finish. In our part of the word we don't necessarily need a fungicide so I was considering just the regular one. Comments or info on these products?

Also was wondering if some of you had any feedback on the Oakwood products Weaver is carrying .

And any experience out their with oil darkening liquid or oil stains. I have a customer who would like their saddle browner. It's a ranch saddle and my reply was oil and and time. He seemed happy with this so I've dropped it. Stains can be splotchy and scare me those of you with experience ild appreciate your help.

I was talking to my dad the other day and somebody said something on how with leather finish seems to be a branch of voodoo. I'm waiting for one to be made from ground up bat intestines that will "magically shine, preserve, protect and waterproof all your leather products" lol

[Aurelie]

never used those products you're telling about...so i won't be of any help...but still interested to hear some inputs about those

[Chaed]

Hey guys I'm reviving this thread another time. So it happened. I went out riding, the rain caught me and six hours into the wetness my antique started to smear all over my newly built saddle and partially wash out. Here's what I did, please tell me where I went wrong.

1) 2 light coats of olive oil, let dry 24hrs in between

2) 2 light coats of resolene 50/50 with water, let dry 24hrs in between

3) fiebings antique

4) 1 light coat of tankote, dry

5) 3 light coats of resolene 50/50 with water, dry

there was buffing involved after every step too. Where did I go wrong in my finish???

[Aurelie]

what gone wrong?

you wanted to re-build the antique ?

you ve got stains and spots sploched?

[Chaed]

Aurelie, I went riding in the rain with my newly built saddle. Once it was soaked through, the antique started coming off and splotching. The process I posted above was what I had done during building the saddle. My question now is why the antique came off and what I had done wrong. I thought so many layers of resolene should have been enough to make it weatherproof.