First Holster And Mag Pouch

[JoshLSTV]

Here are my first leather projects. My Dad and I worked together on the holster as it was made for his Sig P6. We made it a crossdraw holster because that's what he found to be most comfortable. I'm pretty happy with how both of these came out considering these are the first things I've ever done using leather.

The molding on the holster could be better, but I need to get some tools for that yet. Currently I'm doing all the molding by hand. I tried using the end of a sharpie, but it left all kinds of marks on the leather which looked terrible. Some things I'll change on the next holster for the P6 will be to bring the stitch line under the frame closer in for better retention, make the reinforcement piece smaller, and cut a little more off of the body shield to allow better grip on the gun.

The stitch lines on the mag pouch didn't come out how I wanted them to since it's a double stack mag. I think I'm going to angle the stitch lines next time so they line up straight. Anyway, heres some pictures of the front's and back's of the holster and mag pouch.

Holster:

Mag Pouch:

[Dwight]

Josh,

For a first holster & mag pouch, . . . good stuff !

One thing you can do to make it a LOT better though, . . . cant the pistol forward about 15 degrees or so. I usually try for a vertical line that goes pretty much from the bottom of the grip to the bottom of the barrel on the gun. That line points vertical down the wearer's leg.

That is not the classical FBI cant, . . . but canting it so the muzzle is pointing backward will pull the handle in toward the wearer a bit as it is worn, . . . and if he/she bends over, it is FAR less likely to stick out the back saying: GUN........GUN.........GUN. It also rides a lot more comfortably.

Other comments would be: pull your stitch lines all in closer to the flashlight, mag, and gun. As they are, . . . in time the pouch inside will become larger, making the item less useful. Also, . . . when you do your snap straps, . . . leave about 1/2 inch longer leather on the outside end of your snap loops. It is SOOOO much easier to snap and unsnap with that extra little bit of leather.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Haystacker]

Nice looking cross draw rig you made. Only suggestion I can make is add ammo to your mag when forming the pouch. Really nice job.

[Big O]

That's very good for a first holster.

About the reinforcement piece - I'm thinking you might want to move it forward rather than making it smaller. When it goes across the front bend of the holster (along the top of the slide), it tends to help hold the holster mouth open....which is the point of the reinforcement piece.

[Colt Hammerless]

A good, cheap, easy to find tool for molding and boning is a tube of Chapstick. The cap is very smooth. The flat, top part of the cap can be used to press the leather against the firearm, and the tight radius of the side of the cap can be used to press the leather into the lines of the gun. I discovered this on my first holster, and have used it for at least part of the boning on every holster and mag pouch I've made since. Keep a paper towel folded several times (at least four layers thick) over the cap to start with. This keeps it from burnishing the leather. As the leather dries more and starts to hold the lines you're imprinting, you can use less layers between the cap and leather. Eventually you can use the bare cap to the leather, and bone in the lines pretty nicely. It can still burnish the leather a bit though, so do this only if you've dyed the leather prior to wet forming. If you burnish the leather it can make those areas of the holster not take dye very well if you dye afterwords. Oh, I use the Chapstick after I've already molded it a bit by hand first.

Also, very nice for your first work!

Colt Hammerless

[JoshLSTV]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll probably do another holster for my Sig P229 in the near future. I'll apply these suggestions as well as a few things I noticed that should've been done differently the first time.

I started a flashlight pouch today to bring in the stitch lines a bit and see if I can straighten them up. Hopefully I didn't bring the stitch line in too much. It's looking like it's going to be a tight fit.

[Reaper]

I like it allot, very nice.

I do agree with adding more of a cant to the pistol. Only because it makes it a more natural motion when you draw it.

If you do cant it more along the lines of 35 - 40 degrees, I would add a tension screw set with hose inside to add friction on the dust cover. Place it down near the bottom of the dust cover. This will make sure it doesn't flip out of the holster if he is knocked down, or has to run and jump, but it will allow him to also draw the firearm.