monkfinch Report post Posted February 16, 2012 I am having a hard time locating this type of burnishing wheel to use with my Sutton finisher. I spoke with someone at Shoe Systems Plus and they said this type of wheel is obsolete / no longer available. The wheel covering is duck canvas and appears to have drawstrings on the side to secure it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! ---Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gunter Report post Posted February 16, 2012 Try a specialisted hardware store or a local craftshop where they sell silver supplies. cheers GUNTER Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted February 16, 2012 I am having a hard time locating this type of burnishing wheel to use with my Sutton finisher. I spoke with someone at Shoe Systems Plus and they said this type of wheel is obsolete / no longer available. The wheel covering is duck canvas and appears to have drawstrings on the side to secure it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! ---Chris This is a Shoe Findings seller...Southern Leather Co. web search for it. they should be able to help you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAYAK45 Report post Posted February 16, 2012 IF.. you find them, please post, I need one also. Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 16, 2012 Hi Chris, Mine are Leather, I have not seen the canvas ones in years. They do make ones of felt, both 5 and 8 inch. The duck wheels were made like the leather ones, like a flap wheel but packed tightly so they don't flap, but they do lay down some with use. The felt burnishers work pretty well too, but I think the leather ones are better. I have never seen drawstrings on anything but a consumer polisher. Any wheels I get are manufactured with hubs. It is hard to tell from the picture what you have there. Art I am having a hard time locating this type of burnishing wheel to use with my Sutton finisher. I spoke with someone at Shoe Systems Plus and they said this type of wheel is obsolete / no longer available. The wheel covering is duck canvas and appears to have drawstrings on the side to secure it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! ---Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAYAK45 Report post Posted February 16, 2012 Hey Monkfinch, why not make some! Whatyathink! You could corner the whole market. I'd buy one for say.. half it's value. Kevin LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkfinch Report post Posted February 18, 2012 Hi Chris, Mine are Leather, I have not seen the canvas ones in years. They do make ones of felt, both 5 and 8 inch. The duck wheels were made like the leather ones, like a flap wheel but packed tightly so they don't flap, but they do lay down some with use. The felt burnishers work pretty well too, but I think the leather ones are better. I have never seen drawstrings on anything but a consumer polisher. Any wheels I get are manufactured with hubs. It is hard to tell from the picture what you have there. Art Art, I have a leather wheel and it works well for burnishing hard sole leather, but it mushrooms the edges of 10-12 oz harness leather. I am currently using a rigid felt wheel and it's OK. The wheels in the pic are covered in duck with hubs on the sides. The drawstring appears to be behind the hub. I have no idea what is under the duck... possibly felt. I want to try this wheel because I love the effect of hand burnishing with plain duck and I am hoping I can achieve a similar effect with the wheel. The shop where I took the pic produce very nice edges on these wheels. ---Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted February 18, 2012 The wheel itself is wood and has a layer of ribbed rubber on top. The canvas is actually pretty smooth because the ribs and wax do the real work (I think). You might try Puritan, they have brushes for finishing machines, maybe they'll have the wheels. Good luck, Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 18, 2012 Since you have a finisher, do you have a bayonet for burnishing irons on it, like this. The part with the red knobs is for heating the iron. The actual irons off the shaft look like this. These work pretty well with compounds like Burnishing ink and Yankee Wax. Art Art, I have a leather wheel and it works well for burnishing hard sole leather, but it mushrooms the edges of 10-12 oz harness leather. I am currently using a rigid felt wheel and it's OK. The wheels in the pic are covered in duck with hubs on the sides. The drawstring appears to be behind the hub. I have no idea what is under the duck... possibly felt. I want to try this wheel because I love the effect of hand burnishing with plain duck and I am hoping I can achieve a similar effect with the wheel. The shop where I took the pic produce very nice edges on these wheels. ---Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkfinch Report post Posted February 22, 2012 I do have those burnishers that fit on bayonet attachments. What type / weight of leather are you burnishing with them? ---Chris Since you have a finisher, do you have a bayonet for burnishing irons on it, like this. The part with the red knobs is for heating the iron. The actual irons off the shaft look like this. These work pretty well with compounds like Burnishing ink and Yankee Wax. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 22, 2012 Smallest thing I've tried is 6oz which worked fine. I don't have irons for anything smaller. I use burnishing ink first cold and then Yankee wax with the hot irons. For small stuff and holes, I'm back to hand burnishing or using a rotary tool in the drill press or just a smooth elk antler tip. Art I do have those burnishers that fit on bayonet attachments. What type / weight of leather are you burnishing with them? ---Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkfinch Report post Posted February 22, 2012 Art, Are you using burnishing ink on wearables? I've been trying various things to get a decent finished edge on 10 oz. english bridle and harness leather. Hand burnishing produces the best result, but I cannot scale that. When I bought my finishing machine, I was told the irons were for sole leather and admittedly I never tried them. I will test them out with some Yankee wax today. Lately, I've been finishing my straps with Fiebings oil based dye, letting it dry then rubbing the edge with a stick of bees wax. I then burnish on an industrial felt wheel. The result is acceptable, but I am eager to improve this process. ---Chris Smallest thing I've tried is 6oz which worked fine. I don't have irons for anything smaller. I use burnishing ink first cold and then Yankee wax with the hot irons. For small stuff and holes, I'm back to hand burnishing or using a rotary tool in the drill press or just a smooth elk antler tip. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 22, 2012 Chris, I apply the burnishing ink cold and the Yankee with hot irons. However, I don't use Yankee on wearables. I use beeswax or carnauba wax as a top wax. The carnauba is very hard, and the beeswax somewhat soft, the carnauba definitely requires a hot iron, beeswax you can use cold. I am thinking of mixing beeswax and carnauba, but the carnauba works for now. So: Wet Edge Trim edge or sand Cold Burnish edge While still a damp edge (not wet, damp) Apply Fiebing's oil or spirit dye for the color you want let dry some, should still be a little damp from original wetting not from dye Apply burnishing ink, it is just ink with some wax in it, again let dry Heat burnishing iron, when hot apply carnauba wax and or Yankee to iron, irons need to be hot enough to melt the wax as it goes on the iron, but not hot enough to throw the wax off, you can usually smell carnauba, it has a sweet smell, if you can't smell it the iron is either too hot or too cold Hot burnish the wax top coat, use neutral carnauba or Yankee if worried about rub off, but carnauba is pretty hard and doesn't rub off easily. Sounds complicated, and it is a little, but it leaves a nice colored edge. For the production environment, an enamel painted edge might be easier. Burnish cold then paint. Art Art, Are you using burnishing ink on wearables? I've been trying various things to get a decent finished edge on 10 oz. english bridle and harness leather. Hand burnishing produces the best result, but I cannot scale that. When I bought my finishing machine, I was told the irons were for sole leather and admittedly I never tried them. I will test them out with some Yankee wax today. Lately, I've been finishing my straps with Fiebings oil based dye, letting it dry then rubbing the edge with a stick of bees wax. I then burnish on an industrial felt wheel. The result is acceptable, but I am eager to improve this process. ---Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted February 23, 2012 Hey Monkfinch, why not make some! Whatyathink! You could corner the whole market. I'd buy one for say.. half it's value. Kevin LOL LOL you buy the canvas and send it to me I'll make you several for twice it's value. Seriously though, I'd have to see the seam on this but it looks like a tube with draw strings on both ends. Extremely easy to make, even if it has a lapped seam. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewerkel Report post Posted March 31, 2012 I am having a hard time locating this type of burnishing wheel to use with my Sutton finisher. I spoke with someone at Shoe Systems Plus and they said this type of wheel is obsolete / no longer available. The wheel covering is duck canvas and appears to have drawstrings on the side to secure it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! ---Chris I think we had a box of those around in the 1990's. I haven't seen them since we moved the shop. Do you know what size your wheel is? They had numbers like 6,7 or 8 on them as I recall. If I can find them in the warehouse, you can have whatever is on hand for a couple bucks each plus postage. I recall they were really cheap cotton canvas. The stitching on them was worth more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
