mmike956 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 Not much progress on the room itself, the carpet still needs to go but by the time I retire I'll have it like I want it. I have an out building but it isn't convenient. I want a work shop in the comfort of the house. There's plenty of room upstairs here and it's just me and my daughter who occupy a 2700 square foot house with half that area upstairs, it is a gold mine of space. I'm in the gathering phase of it all now. I don't even know what I really want to sew! I treasure the machines and I have enough of a variety of types to do most anything. I'll probably be going to the speed reducers to slow the pace down a bit. The good ones sure are expensive! Here is the latest progress on the set up. I'll be glad to see some oak flooring exposed in the future. A lot of work yet to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted February 12, 2016 Looks like you've got room for even more machines! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmike956 Report post Posted February 12, 2016 There's certainly plenty of room! I don't think I could justify any more machines...unless I could scare up a cheap post bed model. Now all I need is to learn how to use them effectively. I don't think there's any way to prosper by finding, repairing, and trying to resell these old machines. One must enjoy them as a beholder and don't expect to get anything more.....the profit won't be there. The real value is seeing one more old machine diverted from the scrap yard and into the hands of those who appreciate them. I wouldn't be able to break even on the resale of any machine I have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted February 12, 2016 More machines are nice, however what I would love to have the space for is a 5x10 dedicated cutting and layout table. Just small enough that i can reach the center. Open to work on all sides. With shelves for hides laying flat underneath. And drawers at each end. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted February 13, 2016 mike, I agree entirely with your sentiments, well put. It can be argued that I don't need all the machines that I have, in fact I could probably get by, for what I want to do, with just two - but there is something nice about knowing that I may have saved a couple, at least, from an unknown fate and have got them functional again. I figure I should be able to get back the cost of each machine, if I sell them, but that doesn't take into account all the work I've put into getting them running, of course. Doesn't matter, I enjoy actually owning them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmike956 Report post Posted February 13, 2016 Realistically I could probably recover the monetary cost of the machines I have but that's not the focus. We can't put a price on our effort to restore them to a fine tuned working order. That value can be found only in the enjoyment the hobby brings us. I actually have room for one of those tables mentioned here. That may well be the next project! A 5X10 cutting table. Do you have any dimensions or specifics that need to be adhered to? Plywood or lumber for the top? I'll use steel tubing for the frame as with the sewing stands. I'm ready to get started! There's one at the local fabric store here that has a scissor track in it. Maybe that isn't necessary. What do ya think? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted February 13, 2016 (edited) The scissors track would probably annoy me. Tailors use scissors, leatherworkers use knives. The tables are similar, the best surface materials differs. Plywood will work, however knives tend to follow the grain and can run away from the cut line. Optimally, if I built the table, it would be covered with a solid piece of HDPE on top of plywood with steel sub structure. Make the top out of 3/4 plywood at least, preferably doubled, and glued together and then cover the whole thing with a giant sheet of 1/4-3/8 hdpe from a plastic supply place. When designing the ideal bench I like to imagine that my benches will get used as a giant dance platform at a nightclub, and must be strong enough to hold up a couple dozen drunk dancing people..... Incidentally, i actually have quite a bit of experience doing just that.... ..Btw, white poly cutting boards are HDPE. Size and height will relate to your height and preference. I like a cutting table to be just below my hip joint, and be just narrow enough that i can reach the center and cut on a line. It must be as long and as big as a side of leather. 10 feet will allow space for the leather and some space for tools, patterns, coffee cups, whatever. Edited February 13, 2016 by TinkerTailor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmike956 Report post Posted February 13, 2016 A robust table it is! I'll post the progress as it takes place. Many thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted February 13, 2016 It is because you are going to end up hammering on it at some time or another. Pounding stitch lines, or foldovers flat for instance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmike956 Report post Posted February 26, 2016 Can any of you identify this part? It was in with some sewing stand parts a friend sent me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 27, 2016 Can any of you identify this part? It was in with some sewing stand parts a friend sent me. I have a part that resembles that to hold down the front of my Singer 42-5 flatbed sewing machine. The tab goes on top, while the rod goes through a hole in the table. The butterfly nut tightens it under the table. You loosen the nut and rotate the tab away from the edge of the machine bed to tilt the machine backwards to oil and lube it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cascabel Report post Posted February 27, 2016 Interesting...... I have a 42-5. It doesn't have one of these, and I wonder why it would need any kind of a hold-down. Any guesses ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 28, 2016 Interesting...... I have a 42-5. It doesn't have one of these, and I wonder why it would need any kind of a hold-down. Any guesses ? Nope. The original owner had it on the table and I have no problem with it being there. The only reason I can think of for having a hold down tab is to keep the bed from lifting if the knee lever rod raises too high. This used to happen to me when I shared one table with three machine heads. I would try to reposition the knee lever for to each machine. But, if the bent rod was too high it would sometimes lift the front of the body up out of the housing cutout in the table. The lock down tab is also useful for transporting a fully assembled machine and table. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmike956 Report post Posted February 29, 2016 Many thanks for clearing that up for me! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmike956 Report post Posted March 5, 2016 Earlier in this topic I was having trouble with my 153W102 missing stitches on certain materials. Well....It still is but I think I have found the problem. The thread guide at the bottom of the needle bar is missing. I've ordered one and a screw. We'll see how it works in a few days. This machine wasn't powered until the other day. I installed a new servo motor finally. I had been hand turning the machine while waiting on my set up to be complete. I hope this solves the problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmike956 Report post Posted March 15, 2016 Problem solved....not with thread guide but hook to needle spacing! Hasn't missed a stitch since closing the gap ever so slightly. Maybe now I'll learn to make something with the machines instead of practicing stitches! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted March 16, 2016 Mate, There is no such thing as too many machines! They all do something slightly different and sometimes one will work better on a certain thread or material than one of the others will. The only thing I would suggest is that you start looking out for something a bit heavier - say a 45k25 or any of that family. mike, I agree entirely with your sentiments, well put. It can be argued that I don't need all the machines that I have, in fact I could probably get by, for what I want to do, with just two - but there is something nice about knowing that I may have saved a couple, at least, from an unknown fate and have got them functional again. I figure I should be able to get back the cost of each machine, if I sell them, but that doesn't take into account all the work I've put into getting them running, of course. Doesn't matter, I enjoy actually owning them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted March 16, 2016 Darren, if you're referring to me my wife asked me if had enough machines when I brought the last one home (the free one). I said I really only need one more, something for doing really thick stuff! I don't think she was too impressed. Maybe one day, if the right deal turns up...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodge72 Report post Posted March 16, 2016 Hi everybody! Does anyone have experience with the Durkopp Adler 69? I am looking for a good machine to make leather bags (cylinder arm) Kind regards, Rodge Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted March 17, 2016 Very good machine. Will handle up to #138 thread. Adler 's version of a Pfaff 335. Uwe just sold a beautiful one. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hockeymender Report post Posted March 17, 2016 Hi everybody! Does anyone have experience with the Durkopp Adler 69? I am looking for a good machine to make leather bags (cylinder arm) Kind regards, Rodge The 69 is an excellent machine. Used one as my mainline machine for years. Loves 92 thread, but as Glenn stated it will sew 138. Has a large hand wheel and that lends to give the machine a little more power. The only negative is the bobbin size, it is not as large as the bobbin on the Pfaff 335. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Janett Report post Posted September 5, 2017 I'm trying to learn how to use a Singer 17SV-20. It is nearly identical to a 17-23 that came with it for parts. I'd like to be able to make leather handbags. Any suggestions on where I might learn? THX! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrmCa Report post Posted September 6, 2017 Looks like a textile machine for setting sleeves into shirts. I hazard a guess it is not a walking foot machine. It may be good for very lightweight leather, but even then I would prefer a walking foot machine as this one might mark either side of leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
