Members gottaknow Posted January 11, 2016 Members Report Posted January 11, 2016 Mike, if you moved your hook timing when you changed needles, then that's the problem. It's real easy to think you need to retard the hook timing to make it line up with the longer needle, when in reality you just need to raise the needle bar. If you put in the longer needle without moving the hook timing, your needle bar rise is still the same. To retime the hook, set the needle bar rise at 9/32" and bring the tip of the hook about 1/16" above the needle eye. Make sure the hook is close to the needle but not touching. The needle guard on the hook should be gently bent to prevent the needle from deflecting into the needle. Have fun! Regards, Eric Quote
Uwe Posted January 11, 2016 Report Posted January 11, 2016 Forgive me, Master Eric, but this old padawan is wondering about that 9/32" needle rise figure for hook timing. It seems much higher (3x) than other machines of very similar head design. Is this due to the hook design or larger needle bar stroke? Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members gottaknow Posted January 11, 2016 Members Report Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) Lol. It's one of those 32nds. 3 to be exact. 9/32 is the wrench size needed to adjust the lower looper on a Union Special 39500 overlock machine. I have too much stuff in my brain. Regards, Eric Edited January 11, 2016 by gottaknow Quote
Members Darren Brosowski Posted January 11, 2016 Members Report Posted January 11, 2016 LOL Eric Apart from the /32's issue you just gave away every sewing mechanics secrets. Mike, if you moved your hook timing when you changed needles, then that's the problem. It's real easy to think you need to retard the hook timing to make it line up with the longer needle, when in reality you just need to raise the needle bar. If you put in the longer needle without moving the hook timing, your needle bar rise is still the same. To retime the hook, set the needle bar rise at 9/32" and bring the tip of the hook about 1/16" above the needle eye. Make sure the hook is close to the needle but not touching. The needle guard on the hook should be gently bent to prevent the needle from deflecting into the needle. Have fun!Regards, Eric Quote
Members mmike956 Posted January 15, 2016 Members Report Posted January 15, 2016 Hook timing was definitely off a bit. I have it apart right now and haven't had time to mess with it for the last couple days. This machine is OLD and it had been in storage for no telling how long. I had a time moving the hook gear. The old Singer wrenches Granddaddy left me came in handy while moving the hook gear mount. I removed the hook to get rid of some thread trapped beneath it and I guess one must take care not to have the hook 180 degrees off upon reassembly. What a mess! Quote Machines in use; Singer 29K58, 154W101, 153W102, 31-15, 31-20
Members mmike956 Posted January 15, 2016 Members Report Posted January 15, 2016 Aha! After doing an autopsy on this machine and putting it back together in correct timing I found the thread not being pulled into the tensioner in the bobbin case. This may well be the smoking gun. Maybe the needle isn't going deep enough to set it into the tensioner? Quote Machines in use; Singer 29K58, 154W101, 153W102, 31-15, 31-20
Members gottaknow Posted January 16, 2016 Members Report Posted January 16, 2016 When you put your bobbin in, it's up to you to make sure it's in the tension. Insert the bobbin so that it spins ccw when you pull the thread, guide it under the tab where the latch opener is, thread the needle and loosely hold the needle thread as you rotate the hand wheel towards you. The bobbin thread should pull up. Put your finger on top of the bobbin and pull. Your thread will slide right under the tension spring every time. Regards, Eric Quote
Members mmike956 Posted January 17, 2016 Members Report Posted January 17, 2016 Eric, I tried that and still had the same dilemma but after a few more rotations I found a tell tale piece of evidence that explained it all. The machine actually picked up a few stitches with loose loops underneath....Guess what.....thread tension issues unnoticed by this newbie. A lot of frustration and even cursing and swearing issued toward the machine that only needed a friend that knew what he was doing to help it along a bit and here we are at a solution to the problem. I'll be able to sleep tonight. In the days before the internet a problem like this would be solved with a trip to the wrecking yard. Many thanks to all of you who guided me through this mechanical analysis. Mike Quote Machines in use; Singer 29K58, 154W101, 153W102, 31-15, 31-20
Members gottaknow Posted January 17, 2016 Members Report Posted January 17, 2016 That's cool Mike. I and several others here try to be as helpful as we can. I came here because of the machine aspect, but now I can actually call myself a leather worker. Regards, Eric Quote
Members mmike956 Posted February 7, 2016 Members Report Posted February 7, 2016 (edited) Here is a picture of the 29K58. I picked it up a couple months ago. It needs a cam roller replaced that controls the stitch length. I took it apart and found a flat spot on it. Makes the walking foot a bit loose. I paid too much for it but I found it local in Atlanta so I drove 55 miles and paid premium versus driving 1000 miles for a cheaper one. It was missing a couple of hard to find screws but I managed to obtain them from College in England. The machine is slow but handy! Edited February 7, 2016 by mmike956 Quote Machines in use; Singer 29K58, 154W101, 153W102, 31-15, 31-20
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