Sealing Leather After Dyeing?

[Mike516]

I'm starting to go through the pains of figuring out dyes and finishes that work for me (have some spider webbing going on when I bend the leather after finishing), so I'm dredging through old posts for info.

Just had one noob question about this thread...When you say you use the Satin Shene "as a block for antiquing" what does that mean?

Thanks.

[Sylvia]

I'm starting to go through the pains of figuring out dyes and finishes that work for me (have some spider webbing going on when I bend the leather after finishing), so I'm dredging through old posts for info.

Just had one noob question about this thread...When you say you use the Satin Shene "as a block for antiquing" what does that mean?

Thanks.

Hi Mike:

Satin Shene well resist the color from eco flo hi-lite or eco flo antiques. It will NOT resist the color from pro water stain or dyes. So be sure you know the difference.

The result is a two toned effect .

[Mike516]

So is it applied before you use the hi-lite and/or antique, then put the hi-lite over it?

[Mike516]

I'm sure that sounds like a stupid question, but I used antique gel then the shene as a finisher and didn't notice a difference to the darkness of the antique. I'm just not sure what I did wrong.

[Sylvia]

I'm sure that sounds like a stupid question, but I used antique gel then the shene as a finisher and didn't notice a difference to the darkness of the antique. I'm just not sure what I did wrong.

Hi Mike:

The only stupid question is the one that remains unasked. So no worries ok?

The two tone affect is done by putting the shene on first in several thin layers allowing time to dry between. You want to be sure the shene is only in the areas you want to remain light such as a border or letters.

Then use your antique gel and make sure it is worked down into the carving and stamp work. and wipe the excess off.

Since you've already done this backwards... and have a uniformly antiqued piece that's finished with shene. The only thing you might be able to do at your own risk is dye carefully with an artist's brush through the shene.

I was tired last night so I neglected to find you the video from Tandy.

[Mike516]

Thanks Sylvia.

I love GH, he reminds me of Mr. Rogers. He just needs new theme music, or at least a little variety

I been using super shene on top of antiques, stains, dyes, etc (not in love with it btw) and after reading through some of the threads on this subject I ordered a bottle of reolene to try out. Will the resolene give me this effect also or do I need to use the super shene for the two tone effect?

[Sylvia]

Will the resolene give me this effect also or do I need to use the super shene for the two tone effect?

He he he... GH is a cool old dude.

I really can't answer that since I've never used resolene. The only thing I can offer is to try it on a practice piece.

My supply of dyes and chemicals are limited and I chafe at having to buy yet another bottle of googah to use. LOL

I recently bought a quart bottle of "Fiebings #5 dye prep" for $16 plus shipping. When I got it it smelled just like ammonia. I shook it and it got sudsy. So I got online and looked up the safety sheet.

It's 90% water, and the rest is varying %s of ethol alcohol (clear booze), ammonia and "proprietary soap" What the?? So.... when I run out of this stuff I'm going to go buy a half gallon of Everclear 190 proof Booze, A bottle of Sudsy Ammonia from the $1 store and mix my own dang $16 bottle full of stuff and have enough to left over to make 40 more bottles.

[Mike516]

LOL that sounds like a plan.

I just painted some shene on a bracelet. If it looks half as good as GH's does, I'm set!

Thanks for all the advice Sylvia.

[LNLeather]

So much help here (at Leatherworker.net) and many different products to try and decide what is best for your different projects…

Since reading this I think I am going to get some Acrylic Resolene for the pieces I have that are colored and use up the

Super Shene & Satin Shene I have on un-dyed pieces…..

* Seems like I remember reading that a good way to put the Shene on - is to put on 2 really light coats when being used for the final finish.

I tried this with a small (3in x 3in) cotton rag and the leather had much less of a plastic look to it.

Dwight said above that "I use both Resolene and Bag Kote, . . . resolene 50/50 with water, . . . bag kote is 60/40, bag kote to water."

I never had read that these things could be diluted, so this is a great information. Same as with the Antique gel.

Not only does it last longer / go farther, you can also get many different shades of the color.

(Also – I suggest you don't 'Dump the Super Sheen down the drain'.

Better to find a proper way to discard any chemicals, or give it to someone that can use it.

This a 'How To' guide for 'Antiquing' Leather that was sent to me by Raymond Tipton from

BUNKHOUSE TOOLS He also has an auction site on eBay duckcreektraders.

This is a box top I made using this guide.

First I put Super Shene on the horse because I wanted it to stay a lighter color.

Then I put diluted Fiebings Antique Saddle Tan on, because I wanted the surrounding area darker.

*. If you want the whole piece to be lighter, then put your resist on the entire piece, let it dry, and then add the antique.

You can go over it till it looks just right. let that dry and then put a Finish coat on.

*. Some times I want the leather a dark color so I will just use straight Antique Saddle Tan gel on the entire piece.

First I used Feibing dark brown # 124 on the horse and cross, let that dry and then the Antique Saddle Tan.

That way I get the color I want and the antiquing

also gets into all of the border tooling. Let that dry and then add a finish to that.

Whether you use Super Shene, or Resolene for the resist, or finish with Bag kote… that is up to you.

Seems like everyone has their favorite products that work for them. Before you mess up your good piece - you could

test what you have in mind on a sample till you get your preferred results.

I hope this helps

[el diablo]

Bob, . . . you might try a product called Bag Kote, . . . another Feibings product.

It produces a much softer looking and feeling product without all the sheen.

I use both Resolene and Bag Kote, . . . resolene 50/50 with water, . . . bag kote is 60/40, bag kote to water.

I brush both on with a bristle brush, . . . that 1 inch wide, 49 cent, el cheapo, pure bristle brush, . . . then wash the brush out with soap and water. I lather it on fairly good, . . . making sure that each and every square inch is covered, . . . including the edges, . . . brush it , brush it, brush it, . . . back and forth, . . . up and down, . . . oblique left/down then right/down, . . . and keep brushing until all the bubbles are pretty well brushed out, . . . I then hit it VERY CAREFULLY with my heat gun to dry up any streaks that might try to form, . . .

If I want a high gloss finish, . . . using this priocess, . . . I usually have to do multiple coats.

I personally shy away from Bag Kote only because the ammonia (or something in it) aggravates my breathing, . . . but it is a good product.

With either one, . . . I then hang em up for 24 hours before I get serious about handling them.

May God bless,

Dwight