Members rccolt45 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Members Report Posted March 15, 2012 Lobo, I got the roller edge thing with my machine. I understand how to set it up but not how to use it. any info would be greately apperciated. Quote
Members particle Posted March 15, 2012 Members Report Posted March 15, 2012 (edited) I can't explain how to use the roller, as I've never used one, but I think they're pretty straight forward. Here is a couple videos from Wizcrafts he posted on YouTube. I stumbled across them a few days ago searching for something else. I have to assume you put slight pressure against the roller, and nothing more, but I'm sure others can provide more insight. Regarding your 1/8" stitch line - if I were you, I'd go with 3/16". If you get too close, when you bevel your edges you will be cutting very close to the thread. Maybe this is okay, but the next step of dying your edges (if you dye them) could result in accidentally touching the thread with your dauber. If you're like me, this is usually enough to spoil the whole holster (I'll dye the whole thing black at that point and put it on my website as an in-stock item). Edited March 15, 2012 by particle Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members steelhawk Posted March 15, 2012 Members Report Posted March 15, 2012 The roller guide is really good for straight edges and long curves. It gave me trouble on sharp curves so I operate manually around them. Maybe with more practice I won't have to do that. Quote www.bearriverholsters.com
Members Steven Kelley Posted March 15, 2012 Members Report Posted March 15, 2012 For holsters, I never use an edge guide. First, I sand the edges even and bevel the top edge. Then when I stitch, I just use the presser foot as a visual guide to gauge the distance I'm sewing from the edge. With a little practice, you can run the stitch line at whatever distance you want without needing an edge guide or marked line to guide you. I made a belt recently and used the edge guide. It makes it much easier on long straight pieces. You just set the guide at the distance you want your stitching to be from the edge and stitch. Gently press the piece toward the edge guide as you go, so that your piece stays against it. It's really easy to use. I think the key here is to just cut some scrap leather and start sewing. Run through a couple of bobbins of thread just practicing, and you should be ready to tackle anything a holster can throw at you. Quote
Members TTcustom Posted March 15, 2012 Members Report Posted March 15, 2012 I just got mine too and I put a stitch line down with my groover to follow and keep me on a even keel. I will have to try the creaser. I have been using the left presser foot on everything so far as that was what was on the machine when I got it. it is going to take a lot more thread and a lot more scraps to get in the practice I need to be really good. Quote I am fifty years old and I have always lived in freedom; let me end my life free; when I am dead let this be said of me: 'He belonged to no school, to no institution, to no academy, least of all to any régime except the régime of liberty.' "What we need is more cowbell!"
Members rccolt45 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Members Report Posted March 16, 2012 [Thanks guys all very helpful. Quote
Members frmntx Posted May 18, 2014 Members Report Posted May 18, 2014 Make your holsters the same as if you were doing them by hand. I love the reply, couldn't have said it better my self. I still groove my holsters for a little bit if recessing. Can't do anything but make your thread last longer by resucing potential for abrasion. Especially if you make anything for LEOs or duty gear. Change the foot, to match your style. Grind it if necessary! Change from two feet to left foot only...., then try right foot only..... Grind you needle set until you can see clearly. Try it all. You are the craftsman, don't let the machine set your course. Change it, to fit your needs. The machine only punches the holes and sets the stitch you want, it does not drive your craft. It only makes it easier, and faster by a moment, maaybe two! Kevin Quote
Members csmartin73 Posted June 27, 2014 Members Report Posted June 27, 2014 Could someone in the group explain to me how to sew the mouth and toe of a holster and then sew the side with a machine. I understand I could sew the mouth and toe while the holster hasnt been rolled over to form but that would have to have some extra stiches at the start and end on the sew line... Any help is appreciated Chad Quote
Members Red Cent Posted June 27, 2014 Members Report Posted June 27, 2014 I Will take a shot at this. First a picture. Reading your question this holster came to mind. All the stitches in black are done while flat. And I tie all of these loose ends. The white done when folded and glued with back stitching for security. Ya gotta know where to start and end the black stitches so you can continue with the white stitches. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members SteelcityK9Cop Posted June 30, 2014 Members Report Posted June 30, 2014 Best videos on running the 441 machines.... Quote
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