ouchmyfinger Report post Posted March 10, 2012 hey to anyone thats been online in the past few days...i have been working on this case for a kindle. this is the first time i used the burnishing technique with bob park that was posted here....this is my first project with the barry king tools i ordered and the chan geer patterns that i downloaded from sheridanstylecarving.com. it is also the first with neatlac, antique paste, the nyltex (or whatever it is called) thread from springfield leather. i did a stitch groove, ran my spacing wheel, and drilled my holes with a dremel. i sanded the edges on a bench grinder with a smooth sand wheel instead of the sandpaper used in the bob park tutorial. first time with herman oak leather as well. to anyone who gets a beader blade, or to barry king.....if someone orders a beader blade, do not let them complete their order without including a large beveler lol. that would have saved some time, the beader blade was fantastic and i wish i would have bought one a long time ago, definitely looking foreword to getting another one for thinner lines in the future. the chan geer patterns worked out well because when i printed the ebook off the pages were slightly smaller than if i would have ordered the book i assume, i got the book for notebook patterns and they were perfect for the kindle so i did not need to resize anything. feel free to critique also, I'm open to any pointers. the only thing i know i did not do correct was- i used cheap packing tape to reduce stretch on the sheridan side and i went to home depot and got better tape for the other side. the sheridan side stretched more and the borders did not line up for the stitching at the end so i had to make due and be creative to make it look decent. thanks for the help everyone who answered my questions i had about all the new materials i used this time. i recommend all of these things i used in this project and will be sticking with these as main supplies in the future, very satisfied with barry, chan and all the materials i bought from springfield leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rohn Report post Posted March 10, 2012 Beautiful work. I really like it a lot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragonspit Report post Posted March 10, 2012 looks like to me that all those little pro helps, helped to create a beautiful completion. although I personally couldnt sheridan design my way anyplace, the design to me fits really well and tooling lookd good, the edges are really nice as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted March 11, 2012 It turned out really well, Nice work. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FOXERJOSE Report post Posted March 11, 2012 very good job, I like the finish, if you want to let more light, use sheridan brown color of antique finish. worked very well, looks great Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ouchmyfinger Report post Posted March 11, 2012 thats the color that i used. thats why i am so confused on how to get the color like in your avitar It turned out really well, Nice work. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted March 14, 2012 thats the color that i used. thats why i am so confused on how to get the color like in your avitar My technique for getting that color is actually very simple and it doesn't fit well with many of the techniques that people use for the really good sheridan style carvings. I just use Eco-Flo Gel Antique (Tan in this case). I do oil the leather with Neatsfoot oil and let it soak in overnight, then I apply the gel antique. There is no resist involved. I did this before I knew about the techniques typically used by professionals. When I do this the leather is effectively dyed by the antique but I still get the contrast in the backgrounded areas and shaded areas. I apply the antique gel and then vigorously rub it off, sometimes reapplying until the coat looks even. You don't get the high contrast that the Sheridan professionals get, but I do like the colors I end up with. That said, I am experimenting with using resists to get different effects with Eco-Flo gel antiques, just to see what I can do. I know there are many leatherworkers on this forum that really don't like Eco-Flo products, but the way I am using them I am getting a result that I like, and I have sold some so I think others like the effect too. Hope this helps, let me know if you still have questions or if what I said was confusing. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NoName Report post Posted March 15, 2012 Here is a reliable method of keeping the leather from stretching during tooling, Before you case your leather, rubber cement it down to the hot-pressed side of Hot Press Illustration Board available at any art supply shop. I use the Crescent #201 with good results. Apply Rubber cement to both the flesh side of your leather project as well as the hot-pressed surface of the board. Do not get any glue on the grain side of your leather! Wait until the tooled leather piece is absolutely and completely dry before peeling it away from the hot press board Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
