Bluesman Report post Posted March 16, 2012 I bought a Maker stamp from Grey Ghost. I'm in the learning curve here. Every time I use it, I get a shallow impression. Then when I go to hit again, most time a get the double stamp look. The second one is off of the first so it looks blurred. I'm using cased leather, lining it up and giving it a good wack with a 24oz maul. For the second blow, I line up the impression with the stamp and give it again. Doesn't always work. Sure is disheartening when you finish a project and go to stamp it and then AGGGHHHHHHHHHH. &*$^@*$^@*&%#@@& Not Good. Any and all advice is appreciated.. Thanks, Jon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chancey77 Report post Posted March 16, 2012 I bought a Maker stamp from Grey Ghost. I'm in the learning curve here. Every time I use it, I get a shallow impression. Then when I go to hit again, most time a get the double stamp look. The second one is off of the first so it looks blurred. I'm using cased leather, lining it up and giving it a good wack with a 24oz maul. For the second blow, I line up the impression with the stamp and give it again. Doesn't always work. Sure is disheartening when you finish a project and go to stamp it and then AGGGHHHHHHHHHH. &*$^@*$^@*&%#@@& Not Good. Any and all advice is appreciated.. Thanks, Jon Figue out where the stamp is going to go first...so if you blur and it is no good; you didn't f' up a finished piece:) (insert Superman dudududun du dudu) Captain obvious to the rescue! lololol No seriously...... Try tilting the stamp after your first good whack forward back left right and then center again.Don't lift it off the leather! Hit is about 6 times! Post up a picture of your stamp! It would help if I could see it...But treat it maybe like a cheap tandy letter stamp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluesman Report post Posted March 16, 2012 Try tilting the stamp after your first good whack forward back left right and then center again.Don't lift it off the leather! Hit is about 6 times! Post up a picture of your stamp! It would help if I could see it...But treat it maybe like a cheap tandy letter stamp. I think that's it. I used to do an incredible amount of hand stamping on steel, so I really understand the concept. The one thing you pointed out makes perfect sense. I am so used to Whack, let's see it, then realign and wack again.........F%$&&. Let me try Wack, tilt, Wack, tilt, Wack, tilt, Wack, let's see what we got. Perfect, Thanks, Jon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted March 16, 2012 Loose the maul and get a dead blow hammer. Harbor freight sells them cheap. Push down on it hard as you are hitting it. Hit it hard. Move your stone to the cement floor for this stamp. Hit it hard. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluesman Report post Posted March 16, 2012 Loose the maul and get a dead blow hammer. Harbor freight sells them cheap. Push down on it hard as you are hitting it. Hit it hard. Move your stone to the cement floor for this stamp. Hit it hard. Aaron Got it dead blow and swing like it comin' from Mississippi. I go past Harbor Freight tomorrow, will pick one up.'" I'm tryin all options. I want a nice, clean, legibal impression. Thanks, Jon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 16, 2012 Do you have something solid that your stamping on ? A bench top won't work very well they bounce. When i use my maker stamp i just spay it with some water and hit it with a 24 ounce maul once on my tooling / stamping stone. If for some reason it doesn't look right put the stamp back in place it will line up fine ( fall into the impression you made ). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluesman Report post Posted March 16, 2012 Do you have something solid that your stamping on ? A bench top won't work very well they bounce. When i use my maker stamp i just spay it with some water and hit it with a 24 ounce maul once on my tooling / stamping stone. If for some reason it doesn't look right put the stamp back in place it will line up fine ( fall into the impression you made ). I have a steel leg workbench covered with a 1 1/2" laminate wood top, covered with a 3/4" piece of marble and then my 12" x 12" granite tooling stone. May be some bounce but I don't think much. I'll try the water idea on the stamp. And yes I am realigning for the second hit. Part of my problem may be that I take a lineup strike. You know like hitting a railroad spike with a sledge hammer. You take a short tap so you knbow were it is and then give it. I have never been comfortable just having at it with one strike. To many years in the die shop stamping steel dies. You always take the lineup tap, saves skin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarkB Report post Posted March 16, 2012 I set mine before I start and while it is a little wet hit it good one time then let dry some and reset it for the good burnished look. Sounds to me like you setting it at the end of your project and it is not wet enough so you get bounce. IMO Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anacott Steel Report post Posted March 16, 2012 Mate, silly question but is the handle on the stamp removable ? If it is, stick the stamp and the cased leather in a vice, line 'em up and squeeze. I had a stamp sans handle made up by Jeff at grey ghost and find this method works well for me at least. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferg Report post Posted March 16, 2012 That little arbor press at Harbor Freight was made for this job. It will make a perfect impression every time with little or no effort on your part. ferg I set mine before I start and while it is a little wet hit it good one time then let dry some and reset it for the good burnished look. Sounds to me like you setting it at the end of your project and it is not wet enough so you get bounce. IMO Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluesman Report post Posted March 16, 2012 That little arbor press at Harbor Freight was made for this job. It will make a perfect impression every time with little or no effort on your part. ferg Ferg, That is the first thing that came to my mind. Your arbor press. That has got to be sweet. I may just buy one to have it around. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) I redid my bench a few years ago and though i'll fix it where theirs no bounce. On one end i made it solid 2x4 screwed and glued 5/8 plywood on top and it still bounced. Heck theirs still some bounce no much but some even with a 3 inch thick piece of granite. Set a full glass of water or lay a tool on your table and hit your stamp you should be able to tell if it has some bounce. Edited March 16, 2012 by dirtclod Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluesman Report post Posted March 16, 2012 Cool thanks. I am going to do that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lwleathers Report post Posted November 24, 2012 Yes a big hammer (preferably twice the size of your stamp) and a steady solid surface is essential. You could also try branding with heat which is excellent if you don't want to scare your cat away while you do your branding. If you're interested, check out our heat embosser for leathers: https://www.etsy.com/listing/98894284/custom-leather-stamp-with-heat-embosser? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
