I Should Probably Buy An Awl...

[Highlands858]

I've done a variety of different leather projects now, and everything I've used a drill every time I need to sew anything. I'm stingy, and I don't like changing techniques that work, but I do recognize that for certain things I've made drilling my holes probably wasn't the best option. I want to invest in an awl, but I have no idea where to start. Here's what I do know:

I like working with leather enough that I want to buy something high-quality

I want to buy something that's versatile but simple

If one awl won't satisfy those two requirements (versatile and simple) then I'd like to know that before I buy anything at all

If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd greatly appreciate it. I'd also be interested in hearing from anyone who doesn't use an awl, and why, and so on...

On a completely unrelated note, what's the best way to sharpen my edge beveler? And if someone knows of a place that sells sets of different sizes I'd be interested in that, too.

Thanks for any and all input, and for listening to my rambling!

[Ryan Barto]

For the awl: I use an Osborne straight awl blade (1 3/4") that I bought from Springfield Leather, inserted into a peg awl haft, also from Springfield. It does well for me, but I did feel that it just wasn't sharp enough when I first bought it, so I sharpened it real good and now I just polish it. I have heard a lot of people on here say that Bob Douglas makes the best awl blades you can buy. I don't have one, so I can't tell you how they are or how much they cost. I do plan on trying to get my hands on one eventually though. As to your two requirements (versatile and simple), I don't think it can get more simple than than the one I'm using. As to versatile, I just can't get a clean stitch without it, and I use it when I stitch everything. I've been testing out using my awl blade in a drill press (turned off, of course) to keep my stitches straight on both sides of my project. I stacked up a couple sheets of cork to keep the blade from hitting the drill press table. So far it has worked well, but I've only tried it on one project.

For sharpening your edge beveler, I use the method that is shown here:

I have only sharpened one size of beveler so far, so I didn't glue the lace down like he does in the video, I just put jewelers rouge on a piece of lace, and hold it down tight to the table between my thumb and pointer finger and strop with short strokes (make sure you don't rotate the handle up or you'll mess up your edge, but he explains that in the video). I'll need to make a strop like he has in the video now that I have multiple sizes of bevelers, I just havn't gotten around to it yet.

Hope this helps,

Ryan

Edited March 24, 2012 by Ryan Barto

[GrampaJoel]

I use an awl from Sheridan leather. I believe it is a Douglas brand.

It is so sharp I have to watch where I point it. It probably will poke a hole in thin air!

I like the shape of the blade also. It has the correct angle to saddle stitch correctly

Joel.

[Relly]

@Highlands858:

I use three stitching punches from Tandy. One has four prongs, one has two prongs, and the last has only one post. The punch works best on dry leather and produces diamond-shaped angled holes plenty big enough for even the clumsiest sewing. It is much easier than using a drill, generally. Lots faster, too. It takes a little practice - you don't want to punch too hard, just hard enough to make holes.

Here's a link to one:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/88044-04.aspx

They are calling it a "Pro Line Diamond Stitching Chisel 4 Prong (5/64" (2mm) Spacing)".

Hope that helps =)