Tacsew T111-155

[WmWalker]

As the title suggests, I have the Tacsew T111-155 sewing machine. I purchased it for use on heavy duty nylon materials. It has performed flawlessly with this medium of materials. When I purchased the machine I did so with the intentions of only sewing nylon. Since then my interests have started to include leather. With that said; I have been reading all the posts I can find here that include my machine. Overall, it does not seam like a machine that is held with high regard within this community. Why is this machine not liked for sewing leather?

Before I get hit with some of the more obvious responses, know that I understand that the machine would have to be set up differently for use on leather, I know I need the appropriate needles. I understand that the 155, although industrial, is definitely on the lighter side. I also know that I'm not in the market for another machine at the moment, and if I was I would get one to support my nylon sewing, like a bartacker, first.

[busted]

As the title suggests, I have the Tacsew T111-155 sewing machine. I purchased it for use on heavy duty nylon materials. It has performed flawlessly with this medium of materials. When I purchased the machine I did so with the intentions of only sewing nylon. Since then my interests have started to include leather. With that said; I have been reading all the posts I can find here that include my machine. Overall, it does not seam like a machine that is held with high regard within this community. Why is this machine not liked for sewing leather?

Before I get hit with some of the more obvious responses, know that I understand that the machine would have to be set up differently for use on leather, I know I need the appropriate needles. I understand that the 155, although industrial, is definitely on the lighter side. I also know that I'm not in the market for another machine at the moment, and if I was I would get one to support my nylon sewing, like a bartacker, first.

This machine will sew anything you put under the pressure foot as long as it is not over 3/8". It is an industrial sewing machine. I had one of these and loved it.

[Wizcrafts]

All you need to do to sew leather with your Tacsew is to slow down the motor (by installing either a variable speed servo motor, or by replacing the motor pulley with a 2 inch pulley and shorter belt), use smooth presser feet, and change to leather point needles. Using pre-lubricated thread will help cool the needle and reduce grabbing on dense leather.

Do not try to exceed 3/8 inch of leather, or use thread larger than #207. It is best for the machine to stick with #69 through #138 bonded nylon thread.

The denser the leather, the slower you must sew. While vests and chaps can be sewn at 20 stitches per second, an 8 ounce belt would have to be slowed down to about 10 per second, maximum speed. A double leather belt, 1/4 inch thick, might grab the needle at that speed, so it would be best sewn at no more than 5 stitches per second (~ one inch).

Hold back the threads when you start sewing to avoid birds nests that will jam the bobbin and throw the machine out of time.

[KAYAK45]

Since you KNOW these things, what is your question? I have a Singer 111-w155 is use weekly. What is the question???

[WmWalker]

Wiz,

I do have an upgraded servo with a smaller pulley and shorter belt. So it sounds like all I need now are needles and lubricated thread... and practice!

Kayak,

It seemed as if this machine isn't very popular within the leather community. I was wondering why.

[coryleif]

It's an inexpensive machine---not as well made as a Seiko STH-8BLD or Juki 1541 (two machines in the same weight class), but I love mine (and I have a 1541 too)...possibly the reason for the flak.

Mine came with toothed presser feet, so, as Wiz said, you'll also need some smooth ones for leather (if you don't have some already). Should run you 'bout 15 to 25 bones depending on where you get 'em.

Happy sewing.

[Cobra Steve]

Hi WmWalker. You might want to add a speed reducer. This will allow you to sew very slow without losing torque when sewing 20-24 oz. leather. Steve

[KAYAK45]

this is a GREAT MACHINE if... you use it for what it was intended for. Gloves, canvas, parachutes purses, light weight leather,small belts, belt loops,etc.

I have a previous post on how to slow it down with a larger top wheel and will not duplicate here!

Do a search and find out how to utilyze this machine.

(where the hell is the SPELL CHECK HERE?)

GOOD LUCK, IT'S A great machine.

Kevin

[SissipahawLeatherCo]

Mine came with toothed presser feet, so, as Wiz said, you'll also need some smooth ones for leather (if you don't have some already). Should run you 'bout 15 to 25 bones depending on where you get 'em.

Happy sewing.

Do you have a suggestion for where to buy smooth presser feet? I can't seem to find them anywhere other than smooth binder feet which I don't think I need.

[TwinOaks]

If you can't find them locally, you might check with some of the sponsors of the site. There are ad banners at the top of the page.

[leatherisfun]

A few choices. I use a 1/8, first in the list most of the time. The guide is spring loaded, do doesn't limit one to only using it as an edge guide.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Juki-LU562-LU563-1508-1541-Walking-Foot-S585-Edge-Guide-Feet-1-8-/280856953341?hash=item41646101fd:g:ztUAAMXQXMRR7Gyd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JUKI-LU-562-LU-563-LU-1508-WALKING-FOOT-MACHINE-STANDARD-PRESSER-FOOT-SET-/161189528042?hash=item2587a501ea:g:bkwAAOxyRhBSx0KY

[TinkerTailor]

A few choices. I use a 1/8, first in the list most of the time. The guide is spring loaded, do doesn't limit one to only using it as an edge guide.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Juki-LU562-LU563-1508-1541-Walking-Foot-S585-Edge-Guide-Feet-1-8-/280856953341?hash=item41646101fd:g:ztUAAMXQXMRR7Gyd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JUKI-LU-562-LU-563-LU-1508-WALKING-FOOT-MACHINE-STANDARD-PRESSER-FOOT-SET-/161189528042?hash=item2587a501ea:g:bkwAAOxyRhBSx0KY

On an aside, do you know who makes/sells an edge guide foot like this for a 441? I do alot of close to the edge sewing and it would be useful. Sometimes i can't use a standard or dropdown edge guide due to shape of project or stitch position. Like yesterday....

[leatherisfun]

Never seen an edge guide foot for a 441. Only options I know about are the drop down roller guide that Nick O, one of the site sponsors sells ( or the guide attached to the arm offered by Toledo Industrial (http://www.tolindsewmach.com/images/large/img_0173.jpg) and other vendors.

I have the latter style guide of guide but don't use it anymore. Taught myself to get close to the edge with the double toe harness foot and stay straight freehand. My technique is to use the right prong of the foot as my guide and go slow.

[TinkerTailor]

Never seen an edge guide foot for a 441. Only options I know about are the drop down roller guide that Nick O, one of the site sponsors sells ( or the guide attached to the arm offered by Toledo Industrial (http://www.tolindsewmach.com/images/large/img_0173.jpg) and other vendors.

I have the latter style guide of guide but don't use it anymore. Taught myself to get close to the edge with the double toe harness foot and stay straight freehand. My technique is to use the right prong of the foot as my guide and go slow.

That is how i do it as well, however i would like to go faster at times and have someting to push against when turning curves. A roller guide is in the way. And eyeballing a stitch while holding up a couple pound worth of brass and leather can be hard. Too much to pay attention to. A guide foot would help in places like here:

[leatherisfun]

Forgot to post the link to the nickOsew drop down guide: http://www.nickosew.com/details.php?id=350

The roller on this is much smaller, might work better for you.