Looking For My First Leather Sewing Machine And Overwhelmed

[kristinj]

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

[Andrew Chee]

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

Just a little comment. I've found that on this board, wallets, belts, amd purses is really considered light-medium weight stuff even though you may consider it heavy weight. when people talk about heavyweight here, they're talking about holsters and saddles.

What area of the country do you like in? The problem with model numbers is that everyone's a clone of everyone else so you will find a bazillion different model names for what is basically the same machine.

I went this very same thing a few months ago. I now have two machines and I feel like I have a much clearer ideas as to what to look for. So instead of models, here's a couple of features you should look for:

Walking foot: specifically compound feed (aka triple feed)

Maximum sewing thickness: 3/8 - 1/2 inch

Heaviest thread: 138 (maybe a 207 but you won't need to go heavier than that for what you're sewing)

Flatbed or cylinder bed: cylinder beds are more versatile when sewing gussets for bags but many don't have a flatbed attachment so is not as convenient on big flat items. This one is up to you.

People talk about the need for smooth feet and feed dogs and that is true but in a pinch you can modify those yourself to smooth then out. servo motor is a definite must have in my opinion. Anyways, you can PM me and I can share more of my experiences with you.

Andrew

[Techsew Ron]

Just a little comment. I've found that on this board, wallets, belts, amd purses is really considered light-medium weight stuff even though you may consider it heavy weight. when people talk about heavyweight here, they're talking about holsters and saddles.

What area of the country do you like in? The problem with model numbers is that everyone's a clone of everyone else so you will find a bazillion different model names for what is basically the same machine.

I went this very same thing a few months ago. I now have two machines and I feel like I have a much clearer ideas as to what to look for. So instead of models, here's a couple of features you should look for:

Walking foot: specifically compound feed (aka triple feed)

Maximum sewing thickness: 3/8 - 1/2 inch

Heaviest thread: 138 (maybe a 207 but you won't need to go heavier than that for what you're sewing)

Flatbed or cylinder bed: cylinder beds are more versatile when sewing gussets for bags but many don't have a flatbed attachment so is not as convenient on big flat items. This one is up to you.

People talk about the need for smooth feet and feed dogs and that is true but in a pinch you can modify those yourself to smooth then out. servo motor is a definite must have in my opinion. Anyways, you can PM me and I can share more of my experiences with you.

Andrew

All good advice. You need a medium weight leather machine.

For a good used machine you're looking at between $800 and $1100, however there are new machines available in a similar price range.

If you're going the ebay route, make sure the machine is tested and set up to sew leather otherwise you'll have to spend more on getting a mechanic to do this for you,.

Let me know if you need any more advice!

Ron

[Ferg]

I have a Consew 206 RB5 flatbed and a Seiko CW8B short cylinder arm machine. They both use the same needles and feet among other things. They will both sew 3/8" easily and on occasion 1/2" leather.

If I had to do it over again I would probably buy a longer cylinder bed with a table attachment. Down side to having the latter combination is the need for changing from a cylinder to the flat bed more

often than I would care to.

Call Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing. (Banner at top of this page. If you don't see it right away, refresh the page until you do.)Tell him what you want to do. He may have a used machine that will fit your price range but you could get a Cowboy, brand new at good price points.

Bob will set you up with a machine that works right out of the box and can put together a "Kit" if you will. When you get the machine to your shop/home you can be sewing leather in less than an hour.

Stay away from e-bay and definitely Craig's List. My Consew came from an E-bay dealer. Nothing wrong with the machine except it was setup for fabric, they assured me it was set up for leather but the needles and everything else he sent weren't correct. "After service" stinks, so be aware.

ferg

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

[Wizcrafts]

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

Read my pinned article about The type of sewing machine you need to sew leather

Next, settle on either a flat bed or cylinder arm machine to start with. Note, that you can buy or have a table attachment made to cover a cylinder arm, turning it into a partial flat bed machine for wallets, vests, chaps, belts, etc. A flat bed is always flat.

Brands I like best are (alphabetically): Adler, Chandler, Cobra, Consew, Cowboy, Juki, Seiko, Singer (and the Japanese National 300N, if you can find one). Most folks on this forum are using machines they purchase from dealers who are members of Leatherworker.net. Those dealers offer after-sale support you cannot get from most eBay sellers. If you buy a sewing machine from a seller on Craigslist, you are totally on your own if you encounter problems.

I have and use the following brands of industrial sewing machines: Cowboy, National, Singer and Union Lockstitch. Two are flat beds, two have cylinder arms and one a semi-post machine. In the past I have also owned Pfaff and Juki sewing machines. I have friends who own a Consew and love them. My best friend, for whom I do sewing when needed, owns an Adler and a Cobra.

I also want to clarify that the machines sold on eBay as "industrial strength" are as strong as any home machine can be, but are not leather sewing machines. I own four home style sewing machines. Two are old iron Singers. Will they sew leather? Yes, about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, but only with #69 thread. Will they feed a large piece of leather, without ganging up on stitches, or separating the layers? NO.The only way they sew multiple layers inline is if if they are stapled, glued or taped together first. They need help feeding leather through the feed dogs, because the flat fixed presser foot drags against the top layer. As a result, stitches vary in length.

To properly sew leather, with say a middle weight thread like #138, requires an actual industrial sewing machine, preferably with triple feed. These are called compound feed walking foot machines. My article linked to above explains all of this.

[kristinj]

Thanks for all the initial info! I've definitely been scouring the boards the last few days trying to get as much info as possible, which helped lead me to getting overwhelmed. I feel like now I can revisit posts and read them in a fresh mind. I've definitely been turned off from craigslist and ebay since I realize most of those machines that are being called "industrial" are as Wizcrafts says and I don't feel comfortable dropping four figures on a piece of machinery I've never seen, especially if it's not coming from a reputable source.

Andrew- I live in the southeast (new orleans to be exact), I thought maybe with the region being such a textile hub, or at least used to be, finding a decent used machine would be easy, but not so much. granted i just started looking within the last week so who knows whats out there i have yet to find. In the next few months I'll be traveling back and forth a bit to chicago so I am also looking around the midwest for machines.

I'll also give Bob a call.

I'm sure i'll be posting quiet a bit in the future as my leather working progresses so i thank ya'll now and in the future for all the help!

Kris

[bruce johnson]

Great advice so far from guys who know a lot more than me. One more maker/machine I would add is a Pfaff 1245. I have a clone, but I haven't talked to many people who have one that don't like them. Mine will do up to 1/2" with #207 as easy as it does #69 thread on 3 oz. On occasion I have run 207 on the bobbin, but my usual set-up is 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin.

[sherilynn]

Hello Wiz!

I'm a newbie to machine sewing leather and experiencing the same overload of info shopping for a machine- I need to make a decision soon as the time spent researching- while important- is cutting into actual production! I've been reading your postings and they're extremely informative- I joined this site largely because of the quality of info in your posts- thanks for the education! If I may, I'd like to pose a couple more questions...

First, is there one machine (that you would recommend) that can handle a continuum of weights? Specifically, from lighter weight items like denim and doe skin, up to and including sturdy, medium weight leathers as for upholstery, belts and handbags? I will also be working with hair-on hides.

I'm also unclear as to how to interpret the measurements regarding the thickness of the leather a machine can handle (i.e., if a machine is said to handle 1/4" the actual thickness of the working piece will be 1" where seam allowances converge and overlap).

Again, I appreciate this site and everyone's willingness to share their knowledge!

My best,

Sheri

Read my pinned article about The type of sewing machine you need to sew leather

Next, settle on either a flat bed or cylinder arm machine to start with. Note, that you can buy or have a table attachment made to cover a cylinder arm, turning it into a partial flat bed machine for wallets, vests, chaps, belts, etc. A flat bed is always flat.

Brands I like best are (alphabetically): Adler, Chandler, Cobra, Consew, Cowboy, Juki, Seiko, Singer (and the Japanese National 300N, if you can find one). Most folks on this forum are using machines they purchase from dealers who are members of Leatherworker.net. Those dealers offer after-sale support you cannot get from most eBay sellers. If you buy a sewing machine from a seller on Craigslist, you are totally on your own if you encounter problems.

I have and use the following brands of industrial sewing machines: Cowboy, National, Singer and Union Lockstitch. Two are flat beds, two have cylinder arms and one a semi-post machine. In the past I have also owned Pfaff and Juki sewing machines. I have friends who own a Consew and love them. My best friend, for whom I do sewing when needed, owns an Adler and a Cobra.

I also want to clarify that the machines sold on eBay as "industrial strength" are as strong as any home machine can be, but are not leather sewing machines. I own four home style sewing machines. Two are old iron Singers. Will they sew leather? Yes, about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, but only with #69 thread. Will they feed a large piece of leather, without ganging up on stitches, or separating the layers? NO.The only way they sew multiple layers inline is if if they are stapled, glued or taped together first. They need help feeding leather through the feed dogs, because the flat fixed presser foot drags against the top layer. As a result, stitches vary in length.

To properly sew leather, with say a middle weight thread like #138, requires an actual industrial sewing machine, preferably with triple feed. These are called compound feed walking foot machines. My article linked to above explains all of this.

[busted]

This would make a very nice sewing machine for your first one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ANTIQUE-SINGER-INDUSTRIAL-WALKING-FOOT-SEWING-MACHINE-/110853811327?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cf66ec7f

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

[Ferg]

I'm not Wiz but I can answer the one question you asked. The thickness a machine will handle is the total of all pieces you have to sew through.

A majority of the flatbed machines sold by dealers on here will handle 3/8" comfortably. You need a little space to get the material under the feet so that space

may be 1/2" to 9/16". There are also cylinder arm machines that will sew relatively thin leather up through about 7/8".

Wiz can fill you in further but you need to talk to any one/or more of the dealers on this site. Give them all the information you possibly can.

There is a certain amount of information you will need to study to see what machine is best for you.

BTW: When making heavy bags and such, skive the edges so you do not have such a thick seam/joint.

ferg

Hello Wiz!

I'm a newbie to machine sewing leather and experiencing the same overload of info shopping for a machine- I need to make a decision soon as the time spent researching- while important- is cutting into actual production! I've been reading your postings and they're extremely informative- I joined this site largely because of the quality of info in your posts- thanks for the education! If I may, I'd like to pose a couple more questions...

First, is there one machine (that you would recommend) that can handle a continuum of weights? Specifically, from lighter weight items like denim and doe skin, up to and including sturdy, medium weight leathers as for upholstery, belts and handbags? I will also be working with hair-on hides.

I'm also unclear as to how to interpret the measurements regarding the thickness of the leather a machine can handle (i.e., if a machine is said to handle 1/4" the actual thickness of the working piece will be 1" where seam allowances converge and overlap).

Again, I appreciate this site and everyone's willingness to share their knowledge!

My best,

Sheri