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Posted (edited)

A while back I had some issues with a large multiple order with the holsters being too tight. Bagging wouldn't work. If it did, it wasn't for long and it seemed they shrunk back.

That was when I first tried LeatherKote. I got if from Brownell's. Create your account as a manufacturer and you will get a good discount. I bought the small jar and shipped it to the customer. It immediately solved their problem. I keep some on hand now and use it frequently. It really slicks up the draw and any holsters that come out tight are no longer an issue.

ETA: last time I went to buy some (spilled my jar, normally will last a LONG time) Brownells was out and I was able to get it from Midway.

http://www.brownells...ct/LEATHER-KOTE

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Edited by BigRiverLeather

Big River Leather
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Posted

I go with the undersized Blue gun. I have a Rings 1911A1 and it's a good 1/10 under in the width of the slide.

Mike

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Posted

Thank you everyone for the excellent feedback! That Leather-Kote looks interesting. I wonder how that differs from the Remington Dri Lube I've been using (comes in a spray can)?

Before I remake the holsters, I am giving the sock method a try... I inserted the gun in a gym sock, then bagged it in a thin ziplock bag wrapped around the slide/trigger guard, then holstered it. It's sitting on my bench stretching right now. My hope is the dummy will practically fall out of the holster when turned upside down. I'll ship one of the holsters back to the customer once it's stretched a while for his review, and if he's happy with it, I'll repeat the procedure on the other holster.

If this sock method works, I may just keep building holsters with the same un-modified dummies and update my break-in procedure with this "if all else fails" method, but will suggest the customer start with a thinner dress sock before moving on to thicker gym socks. This sock method will hopefully allow me to continue detail molding the holsters (will be hard to detail mold a holster that's wrapped in a bag during forming), but will provide an option for the customer to take a more drastic method of break-in than a normal plastic bag allows.

I'll keep you updated on my progress... :)

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Posted

FWIW I"ve done a few Glock 23,19 holsters, the first few were super tight. The ejection port was the culprit, I molded from my actual Glock and went a bit to far pushing in the ejection port area. The next ones were pushed in just enough to get a nice outline and that seemed to help. the stich lines were tight on mine, had to force them in when wet molding, and I used one layer of cling wrap or nothing. Just a thought and something I ran into.

Nice looking rigs by the way!!

Jeremy

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Posted

The other consideration that complicates issues for the holster maker is that GLOCK models 29,30 and 20,21 are now available in a different frame size. It is called the GLOCK 30 SF which stands for "Short Frame" where the frame dimensions are slightly smaller. They do however, retain identical slide dimensions. It is possible that Ring's G 30 blue gun model is crafted in either G30 SF or G30 - causing confusion for the maker & customer.

I know this is heresy on this board - but when making any GLOCK holster, I have found that Kydex is the superior material for the blocky shape of any GLOCK. I use a kydex holster for tactical pistol competition for my GLOCK 21 SF. When I make a leather holster for a GLOCK I stick to a very tapered loose mouthed pankace-type. The stiching has to be just right because of the square slide.

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Posted (edited)

The other consideration that complicates issues for the holster maker is that GLOCK models 29,30 and 20,21 are now available in a different frame size. It is called the GLOCK 30 SF which stands for "Short Frame" where the frame dimensions are slightly smaller. They do however, retain identical slide dimensions. It is possible that Ring's G 30 blue gun model is crafted in either G30 SF or G30 - causing confusion for the maker & customer.

the dimensional differences between a 30 and a 30SF will have zero affect on fit/function of a holster.... the only place there is an actual difference in any dimension is the backstrap of the grip only.... the slide and rest of the frame are exactly the same dimensionally.... the same is also true for the 20 and 29....

where it makes a difference in holsters is with the Glock 21 and the 21 SF only.... the 21 SF has an entirely different rail than the 21 that sticks out below the frame.... with these two models it's a case of a 21 will fit a 21 SF holster, but a 21 SF will not fit a 21 holster due to the rail difference....

Edited by joshk

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Posted

the dimensional differences between a 30 and a 30SF will have zero affect on fit/function of a holster.... the only place there is an actual difference in any dimension is the backstrap of the grip only.... the slide and rest of the frame are exactly the same dimensionally.... the same is also true for the 20 and 29....

where it makes a difference in holsters is with the Glock 21 and the 21 SF only.... the 21 SF has an entirely different rail than the 21 that sticks out below the frame.... with these two models it's a case of a 21 will fit a 21 SF holster, but a 21 SF will not fit a 21 holster due to the rail difference....

To make it more confusing, the 21SF comes in 2 versions, the Glock rail and the picatinny rail. The 20/21SF with the Glock rail should cause no fitment issues when using a standard 20/21 molding gun. The SF models with the picatinny rails are a whole other story.

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Posted

Shooter.... the picatinny is the different rail I was referring to.... out of 20, 21, 29, 30, and the SF versions of those, the only one that will have an affect on holster fit is the 21SF because of the picatinny.... other than that, a SF version and non-SF version of the same gun are identical from a holster maker's point of view....

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Posted

I was trying to get across that not all of the 20/21 SF's have the picatinny rail. Some do, maybe even most, but not all. Some 20/21 SF's have the standard Glock rail

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Posted

I have the G21 with the picatinny rail; I have been meaning to send it into Glock to have the frame exchanged (they do this for free) but I have too many aftermarket parts installed as it is my main competition pistol. The picatinny rail is a worthless feature - but the ambi-mag release is nice on a Glock.

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