Air Brush Is Not For Me

[DoubleBarP]

Built a couple of holsters and used an air bursh to apply the dye.... Sent one to a guy and he got back to me about two weeks later with a question. Is the finish suppose to come off? Send a photo for front and back. Seat belt rub and his pants wore dye off.... I asked him to take a nail file and rub a quarter size spot on the back.... As I said Epic Fail on the finsh process on this one.... Going back to drawing board on this..

Anyone else have problems with air brush technique? How did you fix it? Or mabye I just need to rethink my finish process.....

any feed back welcome

DBP

[mlapaglia]

What did you use for a dye? What finish did you use on it after the dye? How many coats of the dyd did you put on the holster before the finish?

Michael

[DoubleBarP]

What did you use for a dye? What finish did you use on it after the dye? How many coats of the dyd did you put on the holster before the finish?

Michael

Fiebing's Pro, 3 coats airbrushed on.... dry for 24 hours then mop and glow.... Just ordered some resolene and am going to dip dye the next one.... I'v got a gallon batch of vineagroon out in the shed that has been cooking for nealry a week. Gonna give that a try as well....]

Edited April 9, 2012 by DoubleBarP

[chancey77]

Fiebing's Pro, 3 coats airbrushed on.... dry for 24 hours then mop and glow.... Just ordered some resolene and am going to dip dye the next one.... I'v got a gallon batch of vineagroon out in the shed that has been cooking for nealry a week. Gonna give that a try as well....]

I am not sure why people are using mop and glow!

It is not designed for leather finishing...I am sure this is the problem! WOOD, CERAMIC, VYNIL yes...LEATHER NO!!!!!!!

You are better off with Leather Armorall, than any solution resembling Mop and Glow.

It is a cleaner and degreaser...not a leather finish...whoever said it was good for leather should be dragged out behind the barn!

It is having a chemical reaction with the Feibings and is not allowing it to stay penetrated properly.

There is nothing wrong with the airbrush unless you are just attempting to spray on to much and actually there is absolutely NO REASON to use an airbrush if you are just dying 1 color.

I use brushes and daubers and that is they way to do it unless you are being very art full and making big pieces and fading colors an Airbrush is the WRONG APPLICATOR.

An air brush is a tool designed specifically for fading and it is not a tool for what it seems you are attempting to use it for.

I promise I am not trying to be a douche just trying to state what should be very obvious...and I keep seeing people say they are using Mop and Glow and it is really making my blood boil:)

People should read the instructions and SERIOUSLY USE IT FOR WHAT IT IS DESIGNED FOR!

If you want a high gloss shine use a gloss leather product and buff it.

There is a long list of products out there designed just for that!

House hold cleaners are not on the list!

Visit a shoe makers/ repair shop and use what they use. Polish and Buff after Dying.

Edited April 9, 2012 by chancey77

[Shooter McGavin]

With the pro oil dyes I use a dauber that is very saturated and apply the dye liberally. Usually more than once. The browns and mahoganies may appear blotchy at first but will even out very nicely after allowing it to settle for a couple of days.

I think the problem with the airbrush is that it does not allow enough dye on the surface to really "penetrate" the leather.

IIRC, particle had a similar thread not that long ago. He uses an airbrush also.

As far as the Mop n Glo, I dont know, katsass has used it for years with great success. I dont know how chemically different it is from any of the other water based acrylic sealants.

Having said that, I still use products targeted to the leatherworker.

[DoubleBarP]

Thanks for the thoughtful replies I appreciate your taking the time to read and reply. I did some destructive testing today onanother holster that I used the airbrush method on. Three coats only just penetrated the surface of the leather... So now I understand why the finish wore off with some simple everyday wear…. As to the M&G it seems to be the same acrylic finish as the leather products only less expensive.. That said I did order some neutral resolute (at 5 times the cost) today to give that a try…

Building holsters is a hobby I am learning. With time at the bench experimenting, reading some books and what I read here are the only resources I have immediately available to me…. If my post upset you a humbly beg your forgiveness. No offense intended…. Just put me on your ignore list…. That wayyou won't get aggravated….

That said, I have gone to just dipping the holsters in dye and then will letthem dry a full 24 hours…. By the way M&G provides a satin finish not glossy which is what I was looking for….

Regards

DBP

Edited April 10, 2012 by DoubleBarP

[chancey77]

That said, I have gone to just dipping the holsters in dye and then will letthem dry a full 24 hours…. By the way M&G provides a satin finish not glossy which is what I was looking for….

Regards

DBP

If you are looking for a satin Finish that will last It is best to just use some good old fashioned cheep bee's waxed based product and buff.

I am no where near upset with you and I know people are using MPG for stuff, it just makes me scratch my head.... Who was the wisenheimer that had this brilliant idea???

Kiwi Products are great and cheap! Polish, waxes all you have to do is buff to a shine...

I suggest using cheap stuff all the time and I have been known to use olive oil from time to time when I was out of Neatsfoot oil and had something that had to go out the door in a few minuets and the stores where closed....

You don't have to spend a fortune to get a million dollar shine, you just need some elbow grease and possibly just invest into a bench grinder and a polishing wheel...it will save you a lot of time and you will always be satisfied with the result of anything made for shoes...they do get a lot more wear and tear than anything else you could ever wear...quality tested, shoe maker approved!

Believe me I am not your customer I am not mad at your thread at all!

It is hard to hear my fingers from the tone of my voice over the web:)

I really do just want to help and hey if some douche thinks MPG is good...then let his customers buy their products...it won't EVER GO ON ANYTHING I MAKE!

Unless it is a floor I just put down in a kitchen...cause that is where that product belongs...you would be better off with super light coats of acrylic car paint clears and matts ...AND I DO NOT INDORSE THAT ....I am just saying. If you think M+P is the same formula as a leather product you are MISTAKEN...and now it is rectified.

Yes it may have some of the same qualities and ingredients...but IT NEVER WAS, AND TO DATE IS NOT MADE FOR LEATHER.

Do yourself and your clients a favor, don't cheap out on the finish. To save 6-10 dollars is nothing compared to possibly your customer unintentionally bad mouthing your craftsmanship in front of a possible future client (you won't be there when it happens to defend yourself). It could actually cost you thousands of dollars, not just 10 bucks...

Just something to think about.

Your stuff is very nice looking and your technique is looking pretty sweet with your quality and attention to detail.

Don't make yourself look bad cause 1 guy thinks he has been getting lucky for a while with MPG.

Remember there are actually people out there leading people astray...don't always trust people telling you what to use...they could just be trying to sabotage others...I am not saying this is what has happened with this whole Mp+Gw thing...but it sounds pretty retarded to me!

Just be careful...and follow your gut! On the inside you should instinctively know what you should be using...not what Joe, Bob and Harry are telling you is ok to use from their meth lab...they could all just be laughing....

[Spinner]

That said I did order some neutral resolute (at 5 times the cost) today to give that a try…

Something that will defray some of the cost and help the resolene perform better is to cut it 50/50 with water. I use it on all of my solid colored tank bibs by applying with a soft lint free polishing cloth (available at any auto parts store) that has been dampened and wrung out. Saturate the rag with the cut resolene and then wipe on light coats in a overlapping circular motion, make sure to keep the cloth damp with the resolene, as it dries out it can make swirl marks. 2-3 good coats, letting each one dry in between. Makes for a great durable finish when completely dry. Apply a bit of leather dressing/soft wax like Pecards over the top of it, buff and ship. Mechanical buffing works well to reduce the shine if desired. I've had clients ride through massive rainstorms, snow, high desert temps and one even spilled gasoline on a piece and all have survived nicely and just needed a fresh coat of Pecard's to keep them looking good.

[Cyberthrasher]

If my post upset you a humbly beg your forgiveness. No offense intended…. Just put me on your ignore list…. That wayyou won't get aggravated….

Don't worry, Chancey's just passionate and wants to see everyone succeed

Are you buffing your dye before you finish it? There's been a couple times where I thought I was good and then started buffing just to watch it all come off. I just keep going at it with a soft cloth and rub in circular motion to get off any of the loose pigments. If your finish lasts through that then you should be good. I've been using Montana Pitch Blend for a final finish after all that and couldn't be happier with the results. It's not a high-gloss, just more of a satin glow, and makes your piece water "repellent". $10 for a jar and it should go a VERY long way.

Spinner, I keep on meaning to test out some Pecard's from all the good stuff you say about it. One of these days I need to just hit the order button.

Edited April 10, 2012 by Cyberthrasher

[particle]

Like Spinner - I cut my acrylic finish 50/50 with water, but I apply it liberally to make sure it soaks into the leather well to help stiffen my holsters. I'm currently using Angelus 600.

When I airbrush my dyes, I put on 4 heavy coats to make sure it penetrates a little deeper. Daubers may work for some, but I've never had success with them and always end up with splotches. Dipping (for me) results in excessive application that takes days to dry out, and I still get uneven coloring and discolored thread when I sew because there is so much pigment inside the leather.

I've only had one customer contact me about his dye rubbing off, and it was specifically related to the black feathered edge where there is very little coverage. A little wear is to be expected and there isn't much you can do to prevent it aside from a good finish coat and proper waxing by the customer.

[DoubleBarP]

Don't worry, Chancey's just passionate and wants to see everyone succeed

Are you buffing your dye before you finish it? There's been a couple times where I thought I was good and then started buffing just to watch it all come off. I just keep going at it with a soft cloth and rub in circular motion to get off any of the loose pigments. If your finish lasts through that then you should be good. I've been using Montana Pitch Blend for a final finish after all that and couldn't be happier with the results. It's not a high-gloss, just more of a satin glow, and makes your piece water "repellent". $10 for a jar and it should go a VERY long way.

Spinner, I keep on meaning to test out some Pecard's from all the good stuff you say about it. One of these days I need to just hit the order button.

Yes, coat of neutral shoe polish then Buff by hand... I'm learning the finish process is quite a challange. Not exactly like putting a spit shine on a pair of Cochran Jump Boots.... :-) . I'm at the 24 hour mark for the last dip dye holsters so I'll finish up and see how it goes…. My thanks to all who responded, and the tips on what works for you..

Regards:

DBP

Edited April 10, 2012 by DoubleBarP

[Cyberthrasher]

Yes, coat of neutral shoe polish then Buff by hand... I'm learning the finish process is quite a challange. Not exactly like putting a spit shine on a pair of Cochran Jump Boots.... :-) . I'm at the 24 hour mark for the last dip dye holsters so I'll finish up and see how it goes…. My thanks to all who responded, and the tips on what works for you..

Regards:

DBP

You might try buffing it before you use the polish. Apply your first coat of dye, let it sit, light buff, apply next coat, etc.. Before moving onto final finishing, keep on buffing it until there's no more pigment showing up on your cloth. Then move on to your polish and conditioners and stuff. This is just what I've learned from the other guys and my own trial and error (mostly error).

[DoubleBarP]

You might try buffing it before you use the polish. Apply your first coat of dye, let it sit, light buff, apply next coat, etc.. Before moving onto final finishing, keep on buffing it until there's no more pigment showing up on your cloth. Then move on to your polish and conditioners and stuff. This is just what I've learned from the other guys and my own trial and error (mostly error).

Buff then polish then buff some more... Will give that a try

Thanks

DBP