Backing For A Tank Bib 'n Fender Cover....

[Mudruck]

Going to be starting work on a tank bib and fender cover for a Fatboy. What do you all use for backing on things that will be up against the paint. This is going on a completely custom ride so I don't want to dink up the paint as the bib and cover ride there.

Would just straight pigskin work ok?

Thanks all!

[chancey77]

I have always seen them curl real bad, so after making a couple and the same thing happening, now when I make them I put a very, very thin sheet of metal in the back and then cover the back with deer skin and lace the front and back together. You could use lexan/acrylic. I just always have some brass or metal laying around. And if you use a metal you can bend it to fit the tank!

I have done them before with just a leather backing, but after getting baked in the sun, they did curl up...so now I always use a stiff backing. Kydex/acrylic/metal, all should be good. Then use the softest leather you can get locally, sheep,deer,rabbit,maybe even a piece of 2-3oz with the kip side out would probably be ok.

Maybe just go to autozone and get a real leather shammy...they are normally deer. And under 5-7 bucks. bu-dum-ch...hahahaha

Thank you , thank you I'm here all night...lol!

Also another idea that is super cheap is a heavy Felt like 1/8" ; 2-3 bucks tops.

Maybe someone else has another idea, but I think that pretty much nails it on the head!

For sure use a stiff backer middle plate!

Edited April 18, 2012 by chancey77

[Mudruck]

Thanks a ton Chancey!

This is exactly what I was looking for. Love this place for the knowledge shared among us. I will find something to stiffen it up some and make sure that it doesn't curl up. This order seems like a really good chance to get some of my work out in the bike show scene around these parts so I want it to be perfect.

I have always seen them curl real bad, so after making a couple and the same thing happening, now when I make them I put a very, very thin sheet of metal in the back and then cover the back with deer skin and lace the front and back together. You could use lexan/acrylic. I just always have some brass or metal laying around. And if you use a metal you can bend it to fit the tank!

I have done them before with just a leather backing, but after getting baked in the sun, they did curl up...so now I always use a stiff backing. Kydex/acrylic/metal, all should be good. Then use the softest leather you can get locally, sheep,deer,rabbit,maybe even a piece of 2-3oz with the kip side out would probably be ok.

Maybe just go to autozone and get a real leather shammy...they are normally deer. And under 5-7 bucks. bu-dum-ch...hahahaha

Thank you , thank you I'm here all night...lol!

Also another idea that is super cheap is a heavy Felt like 1/8" ; 2-3 bucks tops.

Maybe someone else has another idea, but I think that pretty much nails it on the head!

For sure use a stiff backer middle plate!

[Spinner]

I specialize in tank & fender bibs and for mine I go the no-metal, felt backing route. Felt is easy to clean, lightweight and will compress under dashes and seats better than leather for those tight fitting ones. I use 6oz leather and wet form the bib at least partially to the tank where possible to avoid the curl non-formed bibs can get over time. The other thing to consider is the felt can be adhered to cover the lacing on the backside whereas leather needs to be laced in. The edges of the lace, if not buffered from the tank will leave vibration marks in the paint over time. I have a rear fender in the shop that had a fender bib on for 3 years without felt under the edges to show clients the marks those types can make.

What I do is to make the bib 100%, laced edges and all and then use a high quality industrial/automotive grade spray glue like 3M 90 to glue the felt to the backside including over the back of the lacing. Then take a pair of very sharp sheers and trim the felt to the edge of the bib. If you hold the sheers so they angle slightly, you can undercut the felt so it still protects the paint from the lacing but doesn't show when the bib is mounted. I then stitch the front and back ends (where they will be hidden by the dash & seat) to keep the felt in place should the glue ever fail. The 3M90 is seriously hardcore spray adhesive so I haven't had a backing come off yet. Main drawback is it runs about $18/can and a can will do about 7-10 bibs depending on size. I use this same method for little pieces like fender bibs all the way up to my big whaletail tank bibs.

Cheers,

Chris

[Mudruck]

Thanks Chris!

Yea, that was another question I had as well, what weight leather. I have some gorgeous HO 6oz that will be perfect for it.

Now, what do you all use to seal it up well from the elements? The tooling is going to be highlighted and I don't want it to get hosed up if water gets on it.

Thanks again,

Kelly

[Spinner]

Here's an example of one with the felt backing & the edge undercut. You can see by the top vs bottom that the lacing & leather is totally separated from the paint.

One thing to keep in mind is to remind clients, no matter which technique you use, that tank & fender bibs should be removed everytime the bike is washed and the backing cleaned off. Road dirt & dust can accumulate at the edges of a bib & just underneath it and over time that debris will be come abrasive if not cleaned regularly. Now, most clients won't ever take their bib off or might do it once in a great while, but making it policy to remind them is a good practice.

[Spinner]

Thanks Chris!

Yea, that was another question I had as well, what weight leather. I have some gorgeous HO 6oz that will be perfect for it.

Now, what do you all use to seal it up well from the elements? The tooling is going to be highlighted and I don't want it to get hosed up if water gets on it.

Thanks again,

Kelly

Two to three coats of resolene (thinned 50/50, let each dry in between) followed by Pecard's Weatherproof Leather Dressing hand buffed in. I usually apply a second application of the Pecards before I box it up.

[Mudruck]

Two to three coats of resolene (thinned 50/50, let each dry in between) followed by Pecard's Weatherproof Leather Dressing hand buffed in. I usually apply a second application of the Pecards before I box it up.

Perfect man, got both on the shelf.

Thanks!

[David]

I hate to be the one who throws cold water on this party but, in my experience, NOTHING well prevent a tank bib from chewing up the paint underneath. Leave that thing on there a year and your paint will be toast. It doesn't matter if you put shearling on the back, the combination of the vibration, sun, rain, heat, cold and just normal use will be enough to damage the paint.

JMHO.....

Dave Theobald

Edited April 19, 2012 by David

[Spinner]

I respect your right to your opinion, but to be fair David, there is a major difference between "chewed up, toasted paint" and slight discoloration or faint, buffable marring. The latter is what folks should expect a well made and properly maintained tank bib to cause happen to paint. I have never said that a tank bib won't leave some kind of a mark, to think so is simply delusional (leave anything on paint long enough it will leave a mark just from sitting in the sun).

However, proper maintenance of the bib & paint underneath will reduce marking greatly, this includes regular cleaning of both. The method I describe above is the best way I have found to reduce the marking to a minimum for those that prefer bibs for their look and/or utility. After having various bib styles on my personal bike for 7 years, 3 of those have been my own bibs, and being able to correct any marks with a bit of buffing & polishing when needed; the difference in having one on and not on a frequently ridden bike is negligible.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For my main clientele, they are looking for ways to keep jacket buckles, zippers and tank bags off the tank, which will do more damage, faster than any bib will. Other reasons are storage options and multiple ways to customize without committing to the look and cash outlay of a custom paint job not to mention those that simply enjoy the look of leather vs. custom paint. Another common reason for a bib, whaletails in particular, is on the larger bikes, like the VTX1800 with their very wide tanks, is that chaps and jeans commonly rub the rear corners and paint can literally be rubbed through in less than 1-2 seasons for a everyday rider without something to buffer it. Different strokes for different folks...

[David]

I respect your right to your opinion, but to be fair David, there is a major difference between "chewed up, toasted paint" and slight discoloration or faint, buffable marring. The latter is what folks should expect a well made and properly maintained tank bib to cause happen to paint. I have never said that a tank bib won't leave some kind of a mark, to think so is simply delusional (leave anything on paint long enough it will leave a mark just from sitting in the sun).

However, proper maintenance of the bib & paint underneath will reduce marking greatly, this includes regular cleaning of both. The method I describe above is the best way I have found to reduce the marking to a minimum for those that prefer bibs for their look and/or utility. After having various bib styles on my personal bike for 7 years, 3 of those have been my own bibs, and being able to correct any marks with a bit of buffing & polishing when needed; the difference in having one on and not on a frequently ridden bike is negligible.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For my main clientele, they are looking for ways to keep jacket buckles, zippers and tank bags off the tank, which will do more damage, faster than any bib will. Other reasons are storage options and multiple ways to customize without committing to the look and cash outlay of a custom paint job not to mention those that simply enjoy the look of leather vs. custom paint. Another common reason for a bib, whaletails in particular, is on the larger bikes, like the VTX1800 with their very wide tanks, is that chaps and jeans commonly rub the rear corners and paint can literally be rubbed through in less than 1-2 seasons for a everyday rider without something to buffer it. Different strokes for different folks...

Unfortunately the folks I've made them for have left them on for years, spilled things....Coke and gasoline and even ridden people sitting on them ..... yeah stupid idea. Then they complain that my bib damaged their paint.

[chancey77]

Well I think we all know where "THOSE PEOPLE" CAN GO!

If any of my clients complain because they where stupid... Maybe they can speak with the complaint department:)

[Spinner]

Unfortunately the folks I've made them for have left them on for years, spilled things....Coke and gasoline and even ridden people sitting on them ..... yeah stupid idea. Then they complain that my bib damaged their paint.

Yeah, I can see how that would mar the paint a bit, LOL. One of my first clients did the spill Coke thing and then pointed a finger my direction. It wasn't until I asked for the bib back for inspection and pics of the affected area on the bike did she admit the true problem. Since then I make sure to include a "care & feeding" bit in my correspondence discussing the same as above with the final delivery email.

You're right though, most folks put them on and forget about care & cleaning only to realize years later they never cleaned underneath, essentially turning their custom bib into the equivalent of a brillo pad with road dust & other crap.

[Twisted 66]

can you use rubber cement to attach the felt? or 'goop" glue?

Edited March 22, 2014 by Twisted 66

[leatheroo]

I back fender bibs etc with a piece of soft leather that covers any lacing by undercutting as well. However i put very thin rare earth magnets between the layers at the points where you might get curl. Keeps the bib secure and prevents movement thus reducing tank wear.

[bustedlifter]

Oh, boo ,hoo, hoo, the bib ruined my paint. Tell em to man up and grow a pair. Wear marks add to the character of a scoot.

[BACAPOPEYE]

I am making my first tank bib ever and was wondering how do you form it lay flatter on the fender? I am pretty new to all of this leather stuff so be gentel.

[shadowryder]

I am making my first tank bib ever and was wondering how do you form it lay flatter on the fender? I am pretty new to all of this leather stuff so be gentel.

BASIICALLY WET YOUR LEATHER FORM IT TO THE SHAPE YOU WANT N LET IT DRY IN THAT SHAPE.