Super Sheen Taking Off Dye1

[glockanator]

First time using super sheen and this happened

[Shooter McGavin]

Eco-Flo dye?

[glockanator]

Eco-Flo dye?

No fiebeings USMC black

[Shooter McGavin]

Looks like it hardly penetrated. Did you apply anything before the dye? Was the leather still wet when you applied dye? USMC Black is hardly water soluble so it's not really the fault of the sealant but a failure on the dye.

[glockanator]

Looks like it hardly penetrated. Did you apply anything before the dye? Was the leather still wet when you applied dye? USMC Black is hardly water soluble so it's not really the fault of the sealant but a failure on the dye.

Nope nothing before the dye. I had let it dry for like two days before applying the dye. I have re dyed it and have let is sit for several hours. When I get home from work I will throm some more Super sheen on it see what happens

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

If that doesn't work, then try some de-glazer to get all oils or whatever else is on it off, before you re-dye and then let it dry a good 24 hrs, before using supersheen. I usually make sure the project is clean with de-glazer or laquer thinner before I dye. Makes life a lot easier!

Bob

[Mudruck]

Wow, Ive had USMC black come off some when putting finish on, but nothing like that! How was the USMC applied? Rubbed in or an airbrush?

Nope nothing before the dye. I had let it dry for like two days before applying the dye. I have re dyed it and have let is sit for several hours. When I get home from work I will throm some more Super sheen on it see what happens

[glockanator]

Wow, Ive had USMC black come off some when putting finish on, but nothing like that! How was the USMC applied? Rubbed in or an airbrush?

Dobber

[Sylvia]

I have fought black before as well. It doesn't seem to matter to me if it is Angelus, or Fiebings... The stuff just is nasty to work with. My first "black" project was awful. Rubbed off in places so I deglazed and tried again. It rubbed off again... I could see the color of the leather. I died it purple... that stuff also rubbed off. I died it navy... it rubbed off too. So I dyed it black one more time... let it dry two days out of frustration.... then put eco flo dark cocoa brown over it. It turned out black! What the??

Second time... it was Fiebings USMC black.... rubbed off. deglazed... put Fiebings OIL Black over it.... it rubbed off. or more precisely.... it moved around on the surface..

if rubbed in a different direction... it "hid" the see through. hmmm... So I oiled it one more time. Let that dry... then sprayed a coat of eco-flo black on it. Let that dry and then sprayed satin sheen. (no more rub off)

I find black to be so bad that I was tempted to charge an additional $75 per coat of the stuff.

So recently I brewed some vinegaroon. I stain with vinegaroon, then put oil over that... then black antique paste... then seal. And I'm still tempted to charge extra.....

[dickf]

It penetrated the best in areas you didn't mold. I think you burnished the surface of the leather and prevented the dye from being able to get through. In my opinion, there are 2 things you can do:

#1 - Dip dye after assembly but before molding (I prefer this method)

#2 - Mold using a press with very little rubbing action from your tools, then dip dye the piece

Dip dyeing provides the best penetrating, truest color in my experience, and has no substitute. While I have no first hand knowledge of Super Sheen, I can tell you that what you show in your photos is what would have happened regardless of the product you used.

Good luck!

*edit - just saw Sylivia's post -

I've never had an issue with black dye, especially Angelus products. I really think you should try dip dyeing your piece before molding - it will make a world of difference.

Edited April 24, 2012 by dickf

[Bluesman]

Just did a belt. Used oil black dye. rub, rub, and then Oil/Beeswax mix for a finish. So far so good. But I have 12 quarts of Vinagaroon stting on the patio. I am ready to make dark stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mudruck]

I have fought black before as well. It doesn't seem to matter to me if it is Angelus, or Fiebings... The stuff just is nasty to work with. My first "black" project was awful. Rubbed off in places so I deglazed and tried again. It rubbed off again... I could see the color of the leather. I died it purple... that stuff also rubbed off. I died it navy... it rubbed off too. So I dyed it black one more time... let it dry two days out of frustration.... then put eco flo dark cocoa brown over it. It turned out black! What the??

Second time... it was Fiebings USMC black.... rubbed off. deglazed... put Fiebings OIL Black over it.... it rubbed off. or more precisely.... it moved around on the surface..

if rubbed in a different direction... it "hid" the see through. hmmm... So I oiled it one more time. Let that dry... then sprayed a coat of eco-flo black on it. Let that dry and then sprayed satin sheen. (no more rub off)

I find black to be so bad that I was tempted to charge an additional $75 per coat of the stuff.

So recently I brewed some vinegaroon. I stain with vinegaroon, then put oil over that... then black antique paste... then seal. And I'm still tempted to charge extra.....

Sylvia, I SOOO hear you on the extra charge for the black!! I've been tempted to do the same thing! I've gone to using multiple coats of USMC black when I use it. If I can vinegroon the thing it goes in the tank, but I have had issues with tooling fading a bit on a full dip sometimes.

[Eaglestroker]

The only issue I ever had was black was when I first started out. I don't know what changed but it's never been an issue since I switched from USMC Black ro Profession Oil Black.

I tried super sheen once. It made the whole holster bleed and stained my beautiful white stitches. That stuff when in the trash.

[katsass]

FWIW from the old grump; Back when --- I found that if I deglazed, then dyed prior to assembly, things worked a whole bunch better --- with Fiebing's Pro Oil dye. With black especially, I used to deglaze, dye, buff the snot out of the stuff, then redye and buff again as necessary, then go to assembly. Especially with black, but also with other colors, when applying any finish, the use of daubers, rags, brushes etc. seemed to want to do things I didn't like. An old Windex spray bottle and thinned acrylic finishes (NeatSheen, SuperSheen) seemed to solve that problem . I now use an airbrush to apply all finishes. For black, it's vinegaroon only --- now. Mike

Edited April 24, 2012 by katsass

[glockanator]

I buffed the hell out of it and redyed it let it sit over night and the sheened it.again so far no.problems! I have only used black.dye so.I can't weight in on the black vs other colors. I am pretty proud.of.now.it turned out post some pics later.

[steelhawk]

Nothing gives more relief than saving what looks like a ruined project.

[Mudruck]

Nothing gives more relief than saving what looks like a ruined project.

+1 to that!!!!

[glockanator]

[Bluesman]

Nice save

[Sylvia]

Nothing gives more relief than saving what looks like a ruined project.

That is the truth!

One of these days when I get down to dregs in the bottom of these dyes I have... I'm going to tie dye something leather. LOL

[rccolt45]

I had this happen to me all the time when I was using the USMC black. Once I switched to Oil based black never had a problem. I am convinced its the dye. Try the fieb oil based.

[steelhawk]

I had this happen to me all the time when I was using the USMC black. Once I switched to Oil based black never had a problem. I am convinced its the dye. Try the fieb oil based.

I noticed the same thing with USMC Black when I was using it. Oil dye for black is what I use now and haven't noticed dye coming off.

[ironhead13]

ditto to the two above post. Never have had the pro oil dye come off of anything... nor issues with getting the black that I want. However, it's not oil based... the title is very misleading.

[Sparks]

So in summary, you just buffed, redyed, let it set overnight before re-applying the finish...

[billymac814]

I never have any issues with black, I use the pro oil dye, it requires almost no buffing and I can dye before or after assembly with no problems. Its actually easier for me to do black stuff as it really doesn't matter how its applied, I normally dip dye but if I'm running low ill use a sponge brush, dauber or anything else.

I'd agree that you probably burnished the leather during molding which made it not penetrate.

Anyone that's using USMC black or any other black dye to at least try the Pro Oil dye, I'd bet money you won't switch back.

Vinegaroon works and makes a nice black but I find it to be too slow with the drying time snd neutralizing and it also seems to have an affect on edging and its less likely to penetrate well if you do it after assembly. If you're only making a few holsters its probably a feasible option.