Dye And Finish

[ReneeCanady]

I am using eco flo all in one stain at the moment and noticed there is ALWAYS atleast one little spot on my projects that don't seem to absorb the dye correctly. It is dyed but you can still pretty much see the leather under it if you look closely. I just know once I apply the finish (probably resolene or super sheen because that's what I have) it will most likely lift some of the dye off that area and make it even worse. I just now applied a second coat of dye to see if it would cover and no luck. I mean it's not THAT obvious, but to me it is lol. With this happening would a 50/50 wax/neatsfoot oil be a better finish? I don't want to make it hard though. The project is about the softness I want it to be now and I still have to dye the back and do the finish. Hope that doesn't stiffen it toooo much.

[Spinner]

I am using eco flo all in one stain at the moment and noticed there is ALWAYS atleast one little spot on my projects that don't seem to absorb the dye correctly. It is dyed but you can still pretty much see the leather under it if you look closely. I just know once I apply the finish (probably resolene or super sheen because that's what I have) it will most likely lift some of the dye off that area and make it even worse. I just now applied a second coat of dye to see if it would cover and no luck. I mean it's not THAT obvious, but to me it is lol. With this happening would a 50/50 wax/neatsfoot oil be a better finish? I don't want to make it hard though. The project is about the softness I want it to be now and I still have to dye the back and do the finish. Hope that doesn't stiffen it toooo much.

Are you using a dye prep or deglazer before dying? it sounds like a contaminant from the tanning or storing process.

First suggestion would be to move to a more professional dye treatment like spirit or oil dyes, the solvent additives in them tend to allow for better penetration and coverage than water based do.

As for this project, the combination you mentioned should work fine. personally I don't mix them, I use them as separate steps to maximize their working.

[ReneeCanady]

My savior No don't laugh, but I just read about the deglazers and such today lol. So you think the oil and wax is better than the super sheen and stuff for this? If so, I have already used the oil itself prior to dying. I need it to be a little softer than what it was so I did a coat of neatsfoot oil and let it sink in/dry for about 1 1/2 days before touching it again. So should I just use the wax for a finish then or do the oil/wax?

[Spinner]

My savior No don't laugh, but I just read about the deglazers and such today lol. So you think the oil and wax is better than the super sheen and stuff for this? If so, I have already used the oil itself prior to dying. I need it to be a little softer than what it was so I did a coat of neatsfoot oil and let it sink in/dry for about 1 1/2 days before touching it again. So should I just use the wax for a finish then or do the oil/wax?

if it's just a normal use item that you're looking for everyday protection while it builds a patina, the wax should do the trick. Super Sheen & Resolene are simply sealers that take it one step further for when you need water/sweat resistance, etc. or when you need to lock in colors such as acrylic paints and such.

[katsass]

I am using eco flo all in one stain at the moment and noticed there is ALWAYS atleast one little spot on my projects that don't seem to absorb the dye correctly. It is dyed but you can still pretty much see the leather under it if you look closely. I just know once I apply the finish (probably resolene or super sheen because that's what I have) it will most likely lift some of the dye off that area and make it even worse. I just now applied a second coat of dye to see if it would cover and no luck. I mean it's not THAT obvious, but to me it is lol. With this happening would a 50/50 wax/neatsfoot oil be a better finish? I don't want to make it hard though. The project is about the softness I want it to be now and I still have to dye the back and do the finish. Hope that doesn't stiffen it toooo much.

FWIW from the old grump; you've already read about deglazers and going to solvent or oil dyes, so my comment goes to the application of your finish. ESPECIALLY with water based dyes, if you apply your acrylic finish (Resolene or Super Sheen) with a dauber, foam brush or a damp rag, you WILL lift some of the dye, and/or move it around 'till you have a mess.. If you dilute the Super Sheen 50/50 with water and apply with an old Windex pump sprayer, you will find that you pretty much solve that problem. I personally use an airbrush now, but the pump sprayer works well. Just stay back off the project and allow it to sort of 'mist' on to the leather. Two coats are generally plenty. If a run or drip shows up, just gently wipe with a finger. Clean the sprayer with clear water. I know this works well with Super Sheen but I have never tried it with Resolene --- but I suspect that it will also go through the pump thing. I personally don't use either anymore. Been using 'Mop and Glo' (yep, the floor stuff) for over 40 years on my holsters, followed by a rubbed in coat of Kiwi neutral polish buffed out and have never had a problem. Hope this gives you a hand. Mike

[ReneeCanady]

Interesting Mike, thank you also. Geez for the price of a few ounces of super sheen you could buy almost a gallon of mop n glo! Ok, so maybe not THAT much, but lots more for your money I will have to try that as well. I also ordered Aussie conditioner cream, should be here Monday. I'm sure I'll be trying that also. I have only been doing things with leather since December, and started right away with the eco flo because I was told that all the "good old" oil/spirit based dyes were going to become harder and harder to find. I don't know if that is the truth or not. I was soooo close to ordering the oil based for this project too and didn't at the last minute.

[Colt Hammerless]

I've heard the rumor about the spirit dyes as well, but I don't think there's any truth to it. Fiebing's just released five new colors of brown, four in their professional oil series, and one in their regular spirit based dyes. I don't think they'd continue to expand the line if they weren't going to be around much longer, so I wouldn't worry about it. Also, as a possible money and time saver for you, a number of people use denatured alcohol to clean leather instead of an "official" deglazer. The DA is available at your local Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc. I've never used actual deglazer, only DA, so cannot compare the two, but my projects have never suffered from using it. It's also what I and many others use for diluting alcohol dyes. Oh, another note: the Fiebing's professional oil dyes contain no oil, and are also spirit (aka alcohol) based.

Paul

[ReneeCanady]

Thanks Paul! I am constantly at the lumber store, and will be looking for it for sure Apparently that is my problem because I haven't used a thing to clean it, and there always seems to be one small spot that I can see. I am definately going to also try spraying the finish on unless I decide to go with just a beeswax type finish.

[katsass]

Interesting Mike, thank you also. Geez for the price of a few ounces of super sheen you could buy almost a gallon of mop n glo! Ok, so maybe not THAT much, but lots more for your money I will have to try that as well. I also ordered Aussie conditioner cream, should be here Monday. I'm sure I'll be trying that also. I have only been doing things with leather since December, and started right away with the eco flo because I was told that all the "good old" oil/spirit based dyes were going to become harder and harder to find. I don't know if that is the truth or not. I was soooo close to ordering the oil based for this project too and didn't at the last minute.

Yes Renee, that is one of the big pay-backs for using the stuff. Waaay back (40+ years ago when Tandy was pretty good), I ran out of Tandy's 'Neet Sheen', and the closest store was about 40 miles away over the mountain. Ma Kat was doing the kitchen floor with the M&G and it looked almost the same as the Tandy stuff. Got to reading and found that both are acrylic finishes (M&G has some additives but after testing a bit I found that they didn't hurt a thing) so I figured that I'd give it a go. Still using it and haven't looked back. As said earlier, any mechanical application of an acrylic finish will mess with water based dyes, but with the solvent based ones, you can just dampen a soft cloth with the stuff (mixed 50/50 with water) and wipe it on. It's very forgiving that way. As with most finishes, moderation is always best. Mike