Latest Belt

[Double U Leather]

Here's the latest order done. It's a floral tooled, initial tipped belt with black dyed edges and initials. Hopefully, the customer likes it. Thanks for looking, and as always, let me know what you think. Stay blessed everyone.

[Blazin]

Very nice! I need one of those but don't have a tenth of that carving ability.

[rosiart]

Very nice and it even has my initials on it. lol

Could I ask you a quick question? I am really new to this and want to make a belt for my hubby that is carved and tooled. Do you do it all in one sitting? Do you use saran or something similar to keep the areas not being worked on from drying?

Rosemary

[Double U Leather]

Rosemary,

I typically can carve one in a day. Throughout the process I'll just keep dampening it as I go. I always dampen the whole thing each time. That way, it all dries at the same pace when I'm ready for the finishing process. If I have a project that I don't get finished in a day, I dampen it good and put it in a plastic sack until the next day. Generally, it's ready to tool when I get back to it. Hopefully, that helps.

[rosiart]

Rosemary,

I typically can carve one in a day. Throughout the process I'll just keep dampening it as I go. I always dampen the whole thing each time. That way, it all dries at the same pace when I'm ready for the finishing process. If I have a project that I don't get finished in a day, I dampen it good and put it in a plastic sack until the next day. Generally, it's ready to tool when I get back to it. Hopefully, that helps.

Yes it does but it also raises more questions in my mind. Sorry. lol

In the Al Stohlman book, they mention casing the belt by running through a bowl of water slowly to get a good casing. I was wondering how necessary that is. And if a backing such as tape is necessary. I really don't want use it as this will be a single layer belt so I won't be able to hide fuzzies. Do you find that the tooling loses any of its definition through repeated dampenings? Thanks . ( I considered sending my questions as a pm but then figured other newbies might also like to know)

[Double U Leather]

Casing the item, as mentioned in the Stohlman book, is of utmost importance. When I make belts (or anything for that matter), the first step I take is to put packing tape on the backside of the project. Many people will use rubber cement and a thin piece of plexiglass or something similar. This is to prevent the leather from stretching during tooling. I think probably the rubber cement and plexiglass works best for larger type items. I've never tried it, but am about to the point to try it.

After it's backed (taped or rubber cemented), I then run the belt under the faucet until the entire thing is wet.

I then will run a glass slicker over it, going both directions. This step helps "firm" the fibers of the leather up that I'll be tooling. I usually have a couple projects going at the same time, so at this point I put the cased item in a plastic sack and let it sit for a while. Once the cased item has returned to almost the normal color, I'll then begin tooling. I know that early on, this was a step that I rushed and I'd tool things while it was still too wet. Tooling on a piece that is too wet will make the impressions "mush" around instead of being crisp.

I will keep on tooling until the project is done, or until the end of the day has come. If I have more to tool, as I said before, I'll dampen it good and put it back in the sack. During the tooling process, I'll re-dampen the leather as needed. Some people use a spray bottle, I have always just used a sponge. When I'm dampening, I'm not trying to get it back to the wet stage from earlier, just damp enough to tool. Again, as I dampen, I will let it sit for a few seconds before I begin carving again. Usually, while I'm letting it sit, I'll strop my swivel knife, or take a drink of water, or take a chew...LOL.

When I'm all done tooling, I remove the backing and let it dry overnight. The next day, I'll oil it and then let that sit overnight if at all possible. Next is the resist or Clear Lac stage. I apply the resist, and let it dry for at least 3-4 hours. Then antique.

As for the "fuzzies", I line probably 99% of the projects I do. The only time I don't line something is if the piece with be attached directly to something else and the backside will never be seen.

I guess the one thing I've learned when it comes to casing, oiling, dying, finishing, etc., is to not get in a rush. I've messed up more than one project by being impatient and trying to hurry things along too fast. If nothing else, this leather deal is teaching me patience...LOL.

I hope this helped. Feel free to ask more questions if you need to. I'm by no means an expert. Just things I've learned along the way...and lots of things I've learned from people right here on LW.

[rosiart]

You have no idea how helpful this has been. Thanks so much for giving such a detailed response. And I think one of my biggest problems is trying to rush things. It is hard to know in the beginning when the time is right to start the tooling and I think I tend to jump the gun. Do you do all the carving at once then do the tooling a section at a time or is there a better method?

In the process of making a belt, what clues I should be looking for, to know when it is time to rewet the work?

Rosemary

[srbonner]

Here's the latest order done. It's a floral tooled, initial tipped belt with black dyed edges and initials. Hopefully, the customer likes it. Thanks for looking, and as always, let me know what you think. Stay blessed everyone.

No unfortunalty I'm not Jr. Bonner's dad, but I have watched that movie hundreds of times. Used to pretend I was Jr. When I startet rodeoing. But to your belt, I think it looks awesome. To me your tooling looks very professional. I would wear it.

[Buttons]

Really beautiful tooling.What process did you use for the background ?

[Double U Leather]

Srbonner....LOL. I also watched that movie a million times when I was rodeoing. That one, and J.W. Coop. In fact, you talked about pretending to be Jr. Bonner, I pretended to be J. W. Coop...so far as to have a spur imbedded into a cast after I'd broken my foot. Thought I had a shot at making the circuit finals that year and didn't want to sit at home. DUMB IDEA!!! And the next dumb idea was after getting on a couple with the cast and spur and having zero success, going home and taking a hacksaw and cutting the cast off myself. My foot has been semi-jacked up since. Oh the joys of being young and invincible and dreaming of being a world champion. Anyway, thanks for the nice words about the belt. I'm starting to get things kinda dialed in I think.

Buttons....I'm not sure what you mean about the back grounding process. I simply use a regular old Barry King 5 hole bar grounder and get after it. Then I put the normal Sheridan style finish on the whole thing. I hope that answers what you're asking.

Thanks again for the compliments, and stay blessed.

[Bluesman]

That is one great looking belt. Questions for you. What size boarder do you use and also the thread size.

Thanks,

Jon

[Double U Leather]

Bluesman...I think the border is 3/8" and then the stitch line is in the middle of that. As for thread, I think it's 138. I'll try to remember to check it tomorrow. BTW...thanks for the compliment.

[cuzi]

Another truely awesome belt. Keep up the great work.