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Posted

Does the machine have a safety clutch?

I have no idea if it has a safety clutch. It is impossible, I have no idea what we are doing wrong . It's frustrating as the machine worked great the last time I used it and I just wanted to use a clear thread for the seat covers and was switching it. I thought maybe is was the "fishing line" style thread and switched back to the old thread and it made no difference.

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Posted (edited)

CarolB;

The guys are trying to well you something important, when they mentioned that your machine has a safety clutch. This could be the crux of the problem. The clutch may have disengaged to protect the hook, after a thread jam. If so, you will need to hold down a button and rotate the handwheel to re-engage the drive to the hook.

Edited by Wizcrafts

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

Hi, pull out more bobbin thread, 8 inches. If it is to short it will not reach up true the needle plate. Have the bobbin closing plate open, to see if the bobbin turns around and picking up the thread. Not all 67 subclasses have a clutch, let us know if shuttle turns (and the subclass number).

Thanks

quote name='carolb' timestamp='1340150907' post='253275']

I have no idea if it has a safety clutch. It is impossible, I have no idea what we are doing wrong . It's frustrating as the machine worked great the last time I used it and I just wanted to use a clear thread for the seat covers and was switching it. I thought maybe is was the "fishing line" style thread and switched back to the old thread and it made no difference.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

The best investment you could make right now is a copy of the manual for your machine. Go through it page by page and make yourself familiar with everything in that book.

In the long term this will save you money and time. A good percentage of the machines that people ask me to fix have nothing wrong with them that a working knowledge of the owners manual would not have cured.

I have no idea if it has a safety clutch. It is impossible, I have no idea what we are doing wrong . It's frustrating as the machine worked great the last time I used it and I just wanted to use a clear thread for the seat covers and was switching it. I thought maybe is was the "fishing line" style thread and switched back to the old thread and it made no difference.

Darren Brosowski

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Posted

I have the manual and have gone over it numerous times. Threading it by following the diagrams and making sure the needle is in correctly. I will look into the clutch part. I have noticed that the bobbin holder goes around but does not pick up a thread. I am going to try a few more of the sugggestions and get my husband to read these comments as well and see if he can help me as he's more mechanical than I am - although he has no experience with sewing machines. Thanks everyone and I will let you know how it works out.

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Posted

Hi, pull out more bobbin thread, 8 inches. If it is to short it will not reach up true the needle plate. Have the bobbin closing plate open, to see if the bobbin turns around and picking up the thread. Not all 67 subclasses have a clutch, let us know if shuttle turns (and the subclass number).

Thanks

quote name='carolb' timestamp='1340150907' post='253275']

I have no idea if it has a safety clutch. It is impossible, I have no idea what we are doing wrong . It's frustrating as the machine worked great the last time I used it and I just wanted to use a clear thread for the seat covers and was switching it. I thought maybe is was the "fishing line" style thread and switched back to the old thread and it made no difference.

Hi again. The machine is a Adler 67-372T/HO. Serial No. 29599 . I tried your suggestion of the longer bobbin thread and left the closing plate open. The lower half of the bobbin case turns around when I move the hand wheel towards me but the bobbin thread stays in the same place and nothing is caught by the needle thread. I'm thinking that maybe there is old thread stuck under the lower half of the bobbin case and in our manual it explains how to clean the hook assembly and that includes that area. We will try cleaning that tomorrow and reassembling it. I'm not familiar with all the terms for the machine parts. I called a repair person and he says we live too far out and would have to bring the machine to him. If we can't figure this out soon, we'll load it up and haul it to his place - it's pretty heavy so I'd rather not have to do this.

Once again - thanks for all the helpful suggestions.

Posted

Ok,now tilt the head back,look underneath on the right side is a belt it should be made out of string w/metal cleats on it, this belt stretches & can jump teeth on the cog that it's supposed to run,then your machine will be out of time.So look @ it & see if it's loose.

Bob

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

Posted (edited)

Hi,

I do not know for sure, but I think it has a clutch (I have sold my 67-73, and I do not remember if it had, but yes I think so) you must do like Bob (Sewmun) told you. But first, take out the bobbin house and clean out old threads that might block it. Remove the needle plate and the feed dog first.

Then remove the three very tiny screws on the top of the bobbin house, and remove it. Clean out the old thread, if any.Then clean and oil before assembling the bobbin house.

Before you assemble the feed dog and plate, remove the needle and put in a NEW needle size Nm 90 (your needle might look good, but is bent and wont work. A new unused right size and system 134-35 Smetz needle from the pack).

Then turn the machine (against you) and look at the hook timing, the needle goes down to it lowest position, and up ca. one millimeter. The tip of the hook must pass the needle over the needle eye in order to catch the thread loop.

The distance between the needle and the hook tip should be about 0.2 mm. (check the manual, hook-needle distance, not in the timing prosess).

If the hook want turn, you must reengage the clutch. Lock the clutch (according to the manual) and turn the hand wheel backwards util it reengages, click sound!!.

If the timing is off, it is possible it had jumped over some tooth on the gear (cog)wheel, like Bob told you. You must the time it as described above.

DoYou have a service manual? Mine are German, If you want it let me know. You do not need any special tools to time the hook, like they say in the manual. Just be sure the hook tip passes just over the needle eye, (inside the needle scarf) when the needle has past its lowest position and its one millimeter on its way up again.

Go on, you can do it....:spoton:

I hope this helps.

Trox

(Do you use a fishing line thread? It is not bit stiff for the Adler? It likes soft polyester and core spun cotton the best and braided polyester. Sometimes with a bit stiff, big sizes nylon bond, you will have stitch errors with the Adler's.)

Hi again. The machine is a Adler 67-372T/HO. Serial No. 29599 . I tried your suggestion of the longer bobbin thread and left the closing plate open. The lower half of the bobbin case turns around when I move the hand wheel towards me but the bobbin thread stays in the same place and nothing is caught by the needle thread. I'm thinking that maybe there is old thread stuck under the lower half of the bobbin case and in our manual it explains how to clean the hook assembly and that includes that area. We will try cleaning that tomorrow and reassembling it. I'm not familiar with all the terms for the machine parts. I called a repair person and he says we live too far out and would have to bring the machine to him. If we can't figure this out soon, we'll load it up and haul it to his place - it's pretty heavy so I'd rather not have to do this.

Once again - thanks for all the helpful suggestions.

Edited by Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

I will try your suggestions before I give up and bring it to the repair man. Thanks so much.

Posted

This is what a repair man will do.

Get to know your machine, you can not bring it to the repair shop every time somethings happens.

But this might be a repairmans job, then againg it might only be some thread under the bobbin house.

It is a common cause.

Nobody will blame you for giving it up, but you can do it.

Trox

I will try your suggestions before I give up and bring it to the repair man. Thanks so much.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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