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  • Members
Posted

I'm making my first gusseted bag, and I'm wondering if anyone can share tips on getting the gusset to go around the corners neatly without wrinkling or getting bad folds that make it impossible to machine sew?

I'm using chrome tanned leather for this project, so wet forming isn't an option.

Thanks.

Posted

If i'm going around rounded corners i glue the gusset to the backside first and use binder clips to make sure things where their supposed to be and sew taking the clips off as i come to them. Then i do the front side the same way. Square corners i can't help ya.

  • Members
Posted

I Like dirtclod, I too use binder clips. I glue with leather weld about 4 to 5 inches at a time. I let it dry under clamp, then move to another 4 to 5 inch section. It's easy enough to do it this way without too much trouble.

Marlon

  • Members
Posted

Thank you both. So far I haven't needed binder clips, the contact adhesive I'm using is more than strong enough. The difficulty I'm having is in getting the gusse to form neatly.

How much sewing allowance do you leave on the gusset, I.e. how big is the turned out lip?

Thanks.

  • Members
Posted

I've never had any issues with it forming. I usually glue up to about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from the edge. I sew closer than that but that's the distance I use.

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted

Do you wet the gusset before you sew it? I normally end up with my presser foot not being able to traverse the excess leather waving up around the corners on my Toro 3000 with a double toe.

  • Contributing Member
Posted

If you wet the leather before sewing the feet will mark your leather pretty bad. It should dry I think, at least that is the way I do it. :)

ferg

1347486521[/url]' post='264170']

Do you wet the gusset before you sew it? I normally end up with my presser foot not being able to traverse the excess leather waving up around the corners on my Toro 3000 with a double toe.

  • Moderator
Posted

I use a stirrup throat plate. It makes it much easier to get into and around the inside corners rolling over the smaller radius of that plate than the others I have.

Posted

I tried a stirrup plate and it set the foot over to far to suit me espically having to use a right toe foot. For me a holster plate works lots better because i can use a left toe foot and sew closer to the edge.

  • Members
Posted

I thought the wet tracks would sure enough show, so I never tried it. I may have to try out some plates and see if that helps. Thanks fellers.

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