Premium Calf Hide For Bullet Looping?

[Bobby hdflame]

I've been watching a video by John Bianchi on western holster making. He said to use premium calf hide for the bullet loops. Said it was stronger and easy to work with.

I looked at Springfield Leather site and they have a premium calf hide listed, no weight or thickness. John didn't specify a thickness either. Does all calf hide come the same oz.?

Do you use anything else for bullet loops on a western holster and why?

Thanks.

[Art]

A lot of it is used in the boot and shoe trade as a vamp and also a liner leather. This is usually 4oz or so. Luke should have some at Sheridan Leather. The Italian stuff is made of Unicorn Hide I think and way too expensive for bullet loops (although they would be nice bullet loops). Make sure you ask for veg tanned if you are going to dye it, otherwise chrome tan comes in a gazillion colors. Looks like John was using veg tan in the video, but any veg tanned tooling leather in 4oz will work. Make sure it is flexible enough to handle being bent to the bullet diameter without cracking.

Art

[Bobby hdflame]

A lot of it is used in the boot and shoe trade as a vamp and also a liner leather. This is usually 4oz or so. Luke should have some at Sheridan Leather. The Italian stuff is made of Unicorn Hide I think and way too expensive for bullet loops (although they would be nice bullet loops). Make sure you ask for veg tanned if you are going to dye it, otherwise chrome tan comes in a gazillion colors. Looks like John was using veg tan in the video, but any veg tanned tooling leather in 4oz will work. Make sure it is flexible enough to handle being bent to the bullet diameter without cracking.

Art

Thanks for the reply. I looked at the video again and he didn't say anything but "Premium Calf Hide", no weight or other description. It does look like veg tanned and it is very thin and supple.

I looked on Sheridan's site and couldn't find any calf leather listed at all. Actually they didn't even have any 4 oz. leather that I could find. Guess I would have to call them??

I also looked at Springfield's again and their description is:

Soft Veg Tan Side 12-17SqFt

Very high-end leather. These are very nice, clean large calf sides that have been veg tanned and then milled for that soft, pebble grained appearance and very drapey feel. Tools well, dyes well, and is one of the most versatile leathers that I've seen in a while. Perfect for all sorts of bags, soft accessories, clutches, wallets, etc. You'll love working with this!! 3-4 oz.

So it is about 4 oz. leather that Springfield has. $3.99 sq. ft. Not too bad.

I've got some leather being delivered from Springfield today. I'll see what it looks like. Been wanting to try some Herman Oak. I've only used Tandy's veg tanned so far.

[ChuckBurrows]

I've been making bullet loops for over 40 years now and have found any decent 3/4 oz veg tan will work just fine (some prefer 4/5 oz, but 3/4 was the most commonly used thickness during the late 1800's, the period my work emulates). I've used premium calf in side by side comparison tests and frankly the extra expense just wasn't worth it as long as you cut your strips length wise and along the back of your side (not the lower belly area) Going lengthwise, nose to tail, cuts down on the stretchiness. If the hide you have is a bit on the stretchy side, just cut your strips wider then needed (about 1 1/2" for a 1" finished strip or even wider say about 4-5" to get two or three finished strips out of), wet and pre-stretch, than trim to correct width

[Art]

Remember that John's video was made around 1995. At that time and before, Tandy was selling some of the best calf around. I have no idea where it came from, but it was exceptional. It was not terribly expensive.

Those days are gone.

Art

[Bobby hdflame]

Remember that John's video was made around 1995. At that time and before, Tandy was selling some of the best calf around. I have no idea where it came from, but it was exceptional. It was not terribly expensive.

Those days are gone.

Art

John seems to be plugging Tandy, but I've never seen his video offered on their site. Wonder why?

Thanks for the tip on pre-stretching the leather.

[SooperJake]

Pretty sure he does state the thickness in the video. " Not less than 3 1/2 oz., not more than 4oz." ( Paraphrased)

Jake

Edited August 29, 2012 by SooperJake

[Bobby hdflame]

Pretty sure he does state the thickness in the video. " Not less than 3 1/2 oz., not more than 4oz." ( Paraphrased)

Jake

Thanks, I probably missed it.

[Art]

Then it was Tandy, a different company than the current TLF. Tandy did not make the video either.

Art

[Dwight]

I use 4 oz or so veg tan in my bullet loops, . . . do not sew them, . . . loop out and back through the same hole. Rivets hold the ends, . . . and it is always contact cememted to the liner.

Always do em wet, . . . use actual bullet for sizing, shaping, etc.

I use a 7/8 in wide strap pulling through a 3/4 in strap punch hole, . . . have never had any problems with it.

Sometimes the first few loops are a bit tough, . . . but after it dries, . . . gets dyed, finished, etc.. . . they always look good to me, . . . customers are happy.

Works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Bobby hdflame]

I use 4 oz or so veg tan in my bullet loops, . . . do not sew them, . . . loop out and back through the same hole. Rivets hold the ends, . . . and it is always contact cememted to the liner.

Always do em wet, . . . use actual bullet for sizing, shaping, etc.

I use a 7/8 in wide strap pulling through a 3/4 in strap punch hole, . . . have never had any problems with it.

Sometimes the first few loops are a bit tough, . . . but after it dries, . . . gets dyed, finished, etc.. . . they always look good to me, . . . customers are happy.

Works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks Dwight! That's sounds like a unique way of doing them. Do you leave the bullets in place until it dries, then glue the liner on before removing the bullets?

I assume that doing it wet pre stretches the leather?

I haven't made a Western holster yet but have been watching the video by John Bianchi. He shows sewing them with a rivet or concho on each end, ending the bullet loop on the back side so the end doesn't show.

Is there a benefit or advantage to the way you do it over sewing? I just got my new Cobra, so I'm not hand stitching if that's the advantage. Thanks again.

Edited September 2, 2012 by Bobby hdflame

[Dwight]

Thanks Dwight! That's sounds like a unique way of doing them. Do you leave the bullets in place until it dries, then glue the liner on before removing the bullets?

I assume that doing it wet pre stretches the leather?

I haven't made a Western holster yet but have been watching the video by John Bianchi. He shows sewing them with a rivet or concho on each end, ending the bullet loop on the back side so the end doesn't show.

Is there a benefit or advantage to the way you do it over sewing? I just got my new Cobra, so I'm not hand stitching if that's the advantage. Thanks again.

As far as the bullets go, . . . I usually pull them all out after I have riveted down both ends. By that time, . . . the sizing, forming, etc. has all been done, . . . and most of the stretching/shrinking has also taken place.

I come back after dyeing & finishing and re-insert the bullets to make sure nothing has changed. Invariably, one loop will have tried to shrink on me, . . . but that is usually the worst.

As far as advantage, . . . just a personal note, . . . I wouldn't give anyone two whoops for a sewn cartridge belt. I've owned em in the past, . . . doubt that one will ever grace my place again. I also refuse to make them for my customers. When they see my personal black rig, . . . that is usually enough, . . .

And, . . . I can usually do a 24 loop section of a belt in just about 45 minutes, . . . that is from a blank belt back and piece of loop strap, . . . to a cartridge belt, punched, looped, and riveted, . . . drying so it can be finished up.

May God bless,

Dwight

[SooperJake]

Loop out the back through the same hole??

Having trouble picturing that Dwight. Are you say you do not sew between each loop?

Jake

I use 4 oz or so veg tan in my bullet loops, . . . do not sew them, . . . loop out and back through the same hole. Rivets hold the ends, . . . and it is always contact cememted to the liner.

Always do em wet, . . . use actual bullet for sizing, shaping, etc.

I use a 7/8 in wide strap pulling through a 3/4 in strap punch hole, . . . have never had any problems with it.

Sometimes the first few loops are a bit tough, . . . but after it dries, . . . gets dyed, finished, etc.. . . they always look good to me, . . . customers are happy.

Works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Dwight]

You can look on this post, . . . and see every stitch I put in my belt loops.

Look at the enclosed pictures, . . . these are my 3D note pads I refer to when I am making a cartridge belt.

At 67+, . . . somethimes the memory ain't worth a dime, . . . so I have cheaters. These are mine. This is how I do it.

Yep, . . . the little ones are for .22's and the big ones are for .44 or .45.

May God bless,

Dwight

[SooperJake]

Now it makes sense..Thanks!

Jake