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Posted

My machine works well and I can get a great stitch but when I try to sew in a gusset all hell breaks loose. I messed up the front so I have to remake the front and form a new gusset. Any tips on preparing this for machine sewing instead of hand sewing.

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I made the formed 2 inches wide with a .5 inch tab. Does the tab need to be bigger? The problem that I run into is when I go around the curves I run off the edge. Any advice will be welcome.

Thanks,

Adam

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Posted

Here are some tips that might help you sew gussets.

Use a double toe foot set. If the right was going to fall off, the left stays on. A 1/2 inch space should work fine.

Get an extra outer foot and grind down the outsides of the toes to about 1/16" or less width. This lets you get closer to the inside of the shaped gusset.

Get another right toe foot and grind it thin of the side. Get another inside foot and grind it down on the left side. This lets you sew very close to the left side of shaped cases and gussets. Align the feet so they almost touch on the right side of the inside foot. This reduces the track width required to keep them on the work.

Use a roller edge guide and press the work tightly against it as you encounter these sharp turns.

Use a 227 type machine to sew gussets, with #207 thread in the bobbin and on top (#24 needle). The bobbins won't hold much 207 thread, but you should be able to sew a couple of purse gussets per bobbin load. Use a narrow zipper foot set to get as close to the inside as possible. Ferg bought one just to sew gussets.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

Here are some tips that might help you sew gussets.

Use a double toe foot set. If the right was going to fall off, the left stays on. A 1/2 inch space should work fine.

Get an extra outer foot and grind down the outsides of the toes to about 1/16" or less width. This lets you get closer to the inside of the shaped gusset.

Get another right toe foot and grind it thin of the side. Get another inside foot and grind it down on the left side. This lets you sew very close to the left side of shaped cases and gussets. Align the feet so they almost touch on the right side of the inside foot. This reduces the track width required to keep them on the work.

Use a roller edge guide and press the work tightly against it as you encounter these sharp turns.

Use a 227 type machine to sew gussets, with #207 thread in the bobbin and on top (#24 needle). The bobbins won't hold much 207 thread, but you should be able to sew a couple of purse gussets per bobbin load. Use a narrow zipper foot set to get as close to the inside as possible. Ferg bought one just to sew gussets.

All I have is the Cobra 4 so I need to make that machine work. Which side should I sew on the top of the inside up?

  • Moderator
Posted

All I have is the Cobra 4 so I need to make that machine work. Which side should I sew on the top of the inside up?

I think you are going to have to sew on the insides of the gusset, bending the other side away from the needlebar and face plate as you sew. Consider my suggestions about making a narrow presser foot set. You may need a third hand from a helper to bend the other side and push in on the bottom side and you guide the flange under the needle.

If your work involved much wider gussets (4+ inches), you could sew along the outside surfaces. There simply isn't enough room with a 2" gusset (the end of the arm/shuttle is over 3.5" in diameter).

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

I think you are going to have to sew on the insides of the gusset, bending the other side away from the needlebar and face plate as you sew. Consider my suggestions about making a narrow presser foot set. You may need a third hand from a helper to bend the other side and push in on the bottom side and you guide the flange under the needle.

If your work involved much wider gussets (4+ inches), you could sew along the outside surfaces. There simply isn't enough room with a 2" gusset (the end of the arm/shuttle is over 3.5" in diameter).

I was afraid you where gonna say that. Is there anyway to make the bottom stitch look any nicer?

Posted

I've put in a lot of gussets but i don't remember putting one in that small. What i did was glue the gusset in and use binder clips to hold ever thing. I sewed the back first then the front taking the clips off as i come to them and i used a left toe foot.

I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.

  • Members
Posted (edited)

I'm getting one of these for my Randell harness stitcher, do they make one for the Cobra 4? Would that work?

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Edited by mogwild
  • Moderator
Posted

I'm getting one of these for my Randell harness stitcher, do they make one for the Cobra 4? Would that work?

I believe that Artisan may have marketed a French edge tool. But .....

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

I'm still learning about what feet do what and what attachments do what and what kind of....well I'm confused. Would that french attachment work for the gusset issue? Or is that a different procedure all together?

  • Moderator
Posted

I'm still learning about what feet do what and what attachments do what and what kind of....well I'm confused. Would that french attachment work for the gusset issue? Or is that a different procedure all together?

Different animal altogether. You will need to create a method of sewing your gussets with the machine you have. This may involve creating custom feet and throat plates.

I needed an inline presser foot to sew along narrow flanges. I found a set. PM me for info, or make your own. Th former outer foot trails the inside foot, directly behind it. Any machine shop can make this foot.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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