MikeG Report post Posted September 16, 2012 I haven't been doing anything leather for quite some time. My first attempts at leather work for a long time are some leather bottles and and a mug using angsters tutorial. The mug and bottles turned out well. I need a lot of work on doing designs and color. I tried coloring only the design, knowing the beeswax will darken the leather, but the design still doesn't "snap" like I would like. I hope you can see the pictures, having a senior moment trying to upload them. -- Mike http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii339/miketenn/P9160031.jpg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benlilly1 Report post Posted September 17, 2012 Photo turned out fine...nice looking work! The forming looks really good. I understand what you're saying about wanting them to snap. Maybe using a little resist in some of the areas might do it for you. It sure is a learning experience. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReneeCanady Report post Posted September 17, 2012 I think they look awesome! Are you using all beeswax on the insides? I made a mug once and did the beeswax thing also and it worked pretty well. I was asking a few people that I came across that use the epoxy finish what the exact name of the stuff was called they use since they say it is food safe, and they never tell lol. However I have found 2 since then, but have yet to try it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LNLeather Report post Posted September 17, 2012 Your bottles look Grrrrreat! Really Nice Job! Is there any chance you could put up the link for that tutorial? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeG Report post Posted September 17, 2012 Thank you for the nice comments and encouragement. I used beeswax for the outside, and 50/50 beeswax and brewer's pitch on the inside. I have used epoxy, and I went through all the "food grade" thing. One manufacturer's rep told me "food grade" requires a bunch of regulatory paperwork and increases liability, so no one wants to certify their products as "food grade." It makes sense, since I understand "food grade" 5 gallon pails and 5 gallon paint pails are made of the same materials and come off the same line. It is my opinion you will not find anything that says "food grade." The little bottle of love potion no. IX was lined with Envirotex and has had rum in it with no apparent issues. The tutorial for the mug is pinned in the historical and reenactment forum here. It's well worth a read even if you don't make a mug, as there is discussion about the sealing. I purchased Frank Zigon's book for the bottles. I will try a resist & see if that will work, but since you are immersing the leather, the liquid wax might seep in around it. I think some folks paint the design with acrylic, but I haven't tried it. I almost wonder if the muted design might be more in keeping with the period look anyway. I'm sort of mixed on that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReneeCanady Report post Posted September 18, 2012 Thank you for the response!!! I did buy the envirotex lite, but haven't tried it yet. It is my understanding that it is the closest thing to "food safe" you can get with out the crazy process described above. I also found something called salad bowl finish that can be bought at a quality wood working store. I have so many "wants" to do first before I go back to the mug I made and try all these steps. The wood working salesman did say that most finishes are food safe once cured. With the salad bowl finish, I am not sure if it is thick enough to seal, but I will give it a go as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeG Report post Posted September 18, 2012 I was at a craft fair recently where one booth showed bowls sealed with "heated walnut oil." That got me to thinking about sealing mugs & bottles again and wondering if I want to try using a heated "salad bowl finish." So many options . . . . but if you think about it, there is a significant difference between putting damp lettuce in a bowl and putting it on the table versus filling a leather bottle with liquid and carrying it around for several hours. I initially did not like the epoxy because it made my bottle rock hard. After using the beeswax, I was surprised how hard that left the leather, and left me feeling better about epoxy. I think it's going to boil down to what you like and what you are comfortable marketing. One website advertises as follows: "Because of European strict hygienic laws and rules we sell this item as a decoration. Usable from ancient times to the Middle ages." I'm guessing this protects the seller but will not deter most purchasers from using the bottles. The safest solution from a seller standpoint looks to be covering glass bottles. My take on a long discussed and disputed issue. -- Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReneeCanady Report post Posted September 18, 2012 You pretty much just summed up everything I have read as well. I do leather work (and am a major newb still) for fun, BUT at have been asked to make MANY things for people I know. Some day I may make it to really sell and was just reading up on "the best" ways to do things. For instance I have only made one mug (tooled) and it came out pretty nice. Next mug I make I will use a thicker leather and more wax. I took it to a fair once and noticed after I got home that the sun must have melted a TINY spot in the stitching because there was a spec of water seeping through. So that is another note for myself to keep in mind. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted September 18, 2012 I was at a craft fair recently where one booth showed bowls sealed with "heated walnut oil." That got me to thinking about sealing mugs & bottles again and wondering if I want to try using a heated "salad bowl finish." So many options . . . . but if you think about it, there is a significant difference between putting damp lettuce in a bowl and putting it on the table versus filling a leather bottle with liquid and carrying it around for several hours. I initially did not like the epoxy because it made my bottle rock hard. After using the beeswax, I was surprised how hard that left the leather, and left me feeling better about epoxy. I think it's going to boil down to what you like and what you are comfortable marketing. One website advertises as follows: "Because of European strict hygienic laws and rules we sell this item as a decoration. Usable from ancient times to the Middle ages." I'm guessing this protects the seller but will not deter most purchasers from using the bottles. The safest solution from a seller standpoint looks to be covering glass bottles. My take on a long discussed and disputed issue. -- Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted September 18, 2012 Mike you got that right..I have been up one hill and down the other, with the True Brewers Pitch, Bees Wax and Epoxy....Did a lot of research and the Glass Bottle covered with Leather works for me and the folks i sell to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benlilly1 Report post Posted September 18, 2012 Nice work Luke! Mike you got that right..I have been up one hill and down the other, with the True Brewers Pitch, Bees Wax and Epoxy....Did a lot of research and the Glass Bottle covered with Leather works for me and the folks i sell to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites