Anyone Have Experience With Juki 1508 Nh

[Roy2k]

Hello, I just purchased a new juki 1508 nh which is supposed to be an upgrade to my juki 563 (not so sure but it is heavier) Anyhow, this machine has 2 upper tension adjustments but It doesn't seem to work as well as my juki 563 and using the same thickness leather, I am looking at upgrading to a cobra class 4 very soon but in the meantime I need to get this thing working good. The problem I am having is that the knots are on the bottom so I adjust both of my upper tension adjustments to the right to tighten the upper tension. It is so tight that I cannot pull the thread by hand. If I sew straight lines it sews perfect but around corners it has breaks in the thread underneath can anyone comment? I am using thread 207 and the needle is 190R 160/23 any and all suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Roy

Edit : I am sewing 2 pieces of latigo 10 oz each together which is normal with my juki 563.

Edited September 16, 2012 by Roy2k

[dirtclod]

First i would check and make sure it's threaded right and that the needle is in right maybe even put a new needle in. If ever thing is right Then I would try backing the top tension all the way off and tighten the bobbin tension a little. Then adjust the top tension.

[Roy2k]

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First i would check and make sure it's threaded right and that the needle is in right maybe even put a new needle in. If ever thing is right Then I would try backing the top tension all the way off and tighten the bobbin tension a little. Then adjust the top tension.

Thanks for the advice but I couldn't tighten the bobbin the screw was too tight and my screwdriver may have not been thin enough to get there. But I did back off the upper tension to try thinner items and somehow I managed to break 5 needles This is brand new and already a major headache. Oh I did retread the machine and triple checked my routing and it was correct. Thanks for your reply.

[dirtclod]

I'm not a sewing machine mechanic by any means just tinker with machines when they get out of whack. It takes a small thin bladed screwdriver for the bobbin screw. I don't have a Juki like yours but i do have a two small machines one of them i don't have hardly and tension on top and the other has more but not much.

I did a Google search for machine tension and came up with this it might help. https://www.google.com/search?q=sewing+machine+tension&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a Maybe somebody that knows more than me can help ya out.

[Wizcrafts]

Back off your bobbin tension until it has a light but smooth pull. Back off the top disk tensions to get the knots right. Try using a #24 leather point needle.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

By the book, if you will, Juki LU-1508N/1508NH can take either or needle system 190 or 135X17 (DPX17).

The problem with the 190 system needle is that it's very long, and will cause more deflection as it tries to penetrate the material. If you choose to change over to the 135X17 needle, you will have to adjust the needle bar height.

As for the upper tension, I've always found it comical, in a sewing machine guy kind of way, how Juki would 'feature' a dual tension mechanism. If it were so effective and important, how come they don't put a dual tension mechanism onto their LU-1510 or LU-1560 machines? Only reason they have this on their single needle is so they can keep on consistent tension assembly across the board for their LU-1500 series machines. Other than that, I see no benefit, unless you are using a heck of a lot of tension, and can spread out the tension pressure so your not 'crushing' or distorting the thread as it passes through the mechanism.

Edited September 19, 2012 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing

[Roy2k]

Back off your bobbin tension until it has a light but smooth pull. Back off the top disk tensions to get the knots right. Try using a #24 leather point needle.

Thanks for the reply, it was very helpful!

By the book, if you will, Juki LU-1508N/1508NH can take either or needle system 190 or 135X17 (DPX17).

The problem with the 190 system needle is that it's very long, and will cause more deflection as it tries to penetrate the material. If you choose to change over to the 135X17 needle, you will have to adjust the needle bar height.

As for the upper tension, I've always found it comical, in a sewing machine guy kind of way, how Juki would 'feature' a dual tension mechanism. If it were so effective and important, how come they don't put a dual tension mechanism onto their LU-1510 or LU-1560 machines? Only reason they have this on their single needle is so they can keep on consistent tension assembly across the board for their LU-1500 series machines. Other than that, I see no benefit, unless you are using a heck of a lot of tension, and can spread out the tension pressure so your not 'crushing' or distorting the thread as it passes through the mechanism.

I am having a lot of trouble with the needle deflecting, I do use very tight upper tension, I called my local tech and he moved the hook a little further away so that my needles quit breaking. Everything seems to run smooth now but I just noticed a new problem, on the upward stroke the needle lifts the leather with it. I am using standard sharp point needles because I don't have leather needles for this machine. Do you think that I should set this up to accept the needles for my 563 or is there an adjustment somewhere that will keep the leather from coming up with the needle? Thanks and again I do appreciate all replys.

[CowboyBob]

Tighten your foot pressure alittle.Needle length won't affect this lifting of the material,it do to #1not enough foot pressure #2 trying to sew to thick or hard of material.

Leather needle might help alittle.

[Wizcrafts]

You should be using leather point needles. Increase the inside (if exists) and outside foot spring pressures until the lifting of leather is curtailed.

[Roy2k]

Thanks a lot, I will order some leather needles. I wish there was a local source for buying needles and other sewing machine parts.

You should be using leather point needles. Increase the inside (if exists) and outside foot spring pressures until the lifting of leather is curtailed.

I hope this exists on my machine, I will try this for sure.

Oh by the way I am sewing through heavy leather with super tight upper tension and the bobbin tension has been backed off.

Edited September 22, 2012 by Roy2k