A Few Questions On Stitching With Linen Thread

[katsass]

You are about correct. I push ALMOST through from the front, then go to the opposite side and 'fish' around 'till I hit the right place.. The first hole placement is critical, as after it is done, I run my overstitch on the back for the location of all following holes. For a holster such as this one (pic) it can be a real challenge. Mike

Edited October 8, 2012 by katsass

[Horrrk]

WOW.! Mike, that's a beast of a holster to stitch!!

I love seeing the quality of your stitching and this is very tidy, as always, but WOW.! lol..

Regards

Phil

[katsass]

Thank you for the kind comments Phil. Actually, heavy welts in holsters are not all that uncommon, however, this one is more so than most. This is due to the fact that I began working on it prior to having my paws on the actual firearm. The firearm's owner told me what he desired and what pistol the holster was for. It wasn't until four days after I began work, when I obtained his gun, did I find out that didn't know what the hell he was talking about. The heavy welt was the only way to salvage my work. Mike

Edited October 8, 2012 by katsass

[electrathon]

There was also on another thread about how you always want to penetrate the leather the same amount on every stitch. Someone, I do not remember who said to put leather washers on your awl to help make consistent sized holes and keep the awl tip super sharp. I have not stitched a lot but sharpening the awl tip helped me a lot and it was a cheap Tandy one. Good luck

David

If your awl is the proper size you want it sharp along the sides and you push it all the way in. The reason for stopping short is they the awl is too big. If you stop short you will have a tapered hole, wider at the top and narrow at the bottom. Definatly a case of people trying to use improper tools for the job.

[ramrod]

• yes it does, now all i need to do is cough up $100 for a new handle and blade and away I go , but in the mean time I can practice and play with cheaper awl blades from tandy. So much to learn , so little brain.....LOL
  

if you are handy with a grinder and a drmel tool, you can make some very nice awl blades. i make mine out of roofing screws. they are quite hard and can still be worked quite well. i have several of differing lengths. all are very sharp. what i really need is some awl handles! i'm swimming in blades.

david mentioned putting washers on the blade to get a consistent depth of penetration. i simply use my index fingertip to guage the depth. i keep it a fixed distance from the tip while using the awl. it works quite well - and it's free.

[electrathon]

If you are going to grind your own allen wrenches and drill bits are a good starting point. The metal is very hard and easily available.

[ramrod]

excellent idea.

[kwelna]

OK Guys, slow down just a bit LOL. For now I will cough up the $5-6 ea for a few more tandy awls to work on . I have a dremmel and a couple of different poishing compunds. In the mean time I will save up for a "good" awl blade and handle. I do not mind spending money on tools especially good one. Although you cant go wrong with harbor freight for occasional use tools and there is a store only 5 miles from my house.....very dangerouse. Not that I don;t beleive you , but I went to a leather guild meeting for the first time last night, (found it by accident while surfing) interesting meeting and group. Very nice and friendly as well. They seemed to be mostly toolers but everyone said the same thing, tandy awl blades are too dull and too large. Call me a fool, but I think I am starting to see a pattern here........

Katsass, did I read your post correctly in that when working with thiner leather (2-3 oz (Money clips \ billfolds so may be 3-4 layers)) you do not make\use a stitching groove? I am going back to the basics and I am going to make a bunch of smaller items such as money clips and mag holders to get the hang of not using a pricking iron and using only an awl and an oversticther.

So to recap for an old fool, start witht the leather totally dry, groove - (if thick enough leather), run the over stitch wheel to mark the stitch holes, make the holes using an awl with the stitching holes (at an angle) barly large enogh to allow the needle to pass through the leather. Sitch using even tension. Once stitched, lightly moisten the leather and go over the stitches with the overstitch wheel. That about sum it up? I will give this a shot later this week \ week end.

You guys are great I appeciate the help.

PS just ordered a cataloge from Weaver I don't know how much business I will do with them, but some times it is great to have an alternate source for stuff. $250 minimum first order......at first I thought wow that is a lot ,but, I can hit that pretty easy.......I really need to find cheaper hobbies than shooting, glass blowing\lapworking and leather. At this point I think fishing might be cheaper, now that IS a scary thought. But then again, I have the tools......maybe I could make some really nice leather flyrod cases............................

Edited October 9, 2012 by kwelna

[katsass]

"So to recap for an old fool, start witht the leather totally dry, groove - (if thick enough leather), run the over stitch wheel to mark the stitch holes, make the holes using an awl with the stitching holes (at an angle) barly large enogh to allow the needle to pass through the leather. Sitch using even tension. Once stitched, lightly moisten the leather and go over the stitches with the overstitch wheel. That about sum it up? I will give this a shot later this week \ week end."

_________________________________________________________________________________

kwelna; Looks like you have it. Give it a go, but remember, there is no 'one way only' in leather. If something works out better for you, and you obtain the result you want - -go for it.

And as an aside, it's getting time for me to get the old Ponsness-Warren out and set up to load 12 gauge trap loads. I also have one of the original Hollywood turret presses that I can set up with three sets of dies - - two pistol and one rifle . May get carried away and load up some .44 Spl. too. Mike

Edited October 9, 2012 by katsass

[St8LineGunsmith]

Katsass you give sage advice I agree with everything you advised in all of your posts not that my opinion matters much but advice well worth listening to

just looking at your stitch work on your projects should be enough indication that you know exactly what you are talking about.

and your methods are very close to the same as how i prep a stitch line and stitching

however i rarely use an awl for making my stitch holes i usually use a drill press or a dremel and a small numbered drill bit but i always glue my seams and make sure the leather is dry before making any holes i especially like using a dremel on holsters with thick welts i can make good straight accurate holes with ease

I also feel the same about tandy leather factory, they are no where near the caliber they once was. it seems to me the quality went down when the prices went up

I also use Springfield for buying most of my leather tools and hardware