Machine Lock Stitch

[LeatherWerks]

I'm using a Cobra 4 machine, sewing a holster using 277 thread and I am not satisfied with my current lock stitch method. I've heard on this forum that you should start sewing about 3 stitches, reverse and then stitch forward. Using this method with 277 thread the 'build-up' of thread is just unacceptable in my opinion.

Here's what I would like to propose as my method of lock stitching with hopes that someone more experienced that I would endorse it or tell me why it won't work.

Imagine you are sewing a 1911 holster. You start sewing forward and just continue sewing (don't reverse to lock the stitch). You continue to sew until you get back to the starting point. You sew into where your first stitch started and then go one more stitch forward. You then reverse for two stitched and then you are done. Will this work?

I ask this question because I see really high-end holster like Milt Sparks for example, and their holsters don't appear to have the stitch build-up I am experiencing.

Thanks for your thoughts,

Steve

Edited October 13, 2012 by LeatherWerks

[TwinOaks]

What you are describing is essentially the same thing - you're sewing over existing stitches to lock them in place. Either way, you've got two stitches in some places, and three in at least one.

When you back stitch, if the threads appear crossed (and thus causing the buildup) it may be because of the needle. You can get needles that lay the stitches straight, angled left, or angled right...so they look like this: - - - - - - .....or ///////// ....or \\\\\\\\. I had a similar problem sewing with my Boss when I was using an angled needle.

You could also just leave the ends loose and hand sew them in place to lock in the stitch. Keep in mind that on many projects, you won't always be able to return to the same spot - something like an Avenger, or cowboy rig has only one seam in the holster.

[LeatherWerks]

I'm interested in this needle thing...the concept of 'angle'. Where do I find such needles?

Steve

[Jimbob]

Steve.....go check on Schmetz needle webside, they have a wonderful page there that includes all the info you need on different needles and what they do and what they look like when used on leather!!

Nice info and best needles in my opinion....but expensive too...!!

James

[dirtclod]

You have it sorta right. Set your foot down about three stitches in fron of where going to start. Then back stitch two or three stitches and then stitch forward. The way you said you are doing it you have a build up of three stitches if do it the way i desribed you have stitch twice instead of three. Starting and going all the way around i sew past where i start two or three stitches and call it good most of the time.

[Techsew Ron]

You have it sorta right. Set your foot down about three stitches in fron of where going to start. Then back stitch two or three stitches and then stitch forward. The way you said you are doing it you have a build up of three stitches if do it the way i desribed you have stitch twice instead of three. Starting and going all the way around i sew past where i start two or three stitches and call it good most of the time.

Yup this is the way to do it. Locks your initial stitches.

Ron

[Mark Garrity]

Leatherwerks,

Comparing a Milt Sparks stitch or that of some other holster-maker's can be like comparing apples to oranges because you are comparing the stitch of two completely different machines. Sparks and many other makers are using Landis, Campbell, or Randall hook and awl machines, which pull a much tighter lock-stitch than any single needle walking foot machine; so any overstitch with a hook and awl machine is not nearly as detectable.

Edited October 28, 2012 by Mark Garrity

[Wizcrafts]

Leatherwerks,

Comparing a Milt Sparks stitch or that of some other holster-maker's can be like comparing apples to oranges because you are comparing the stitch of two completely different machines. Sparks and many other makers are using Landis, Campbell, or Randall hook and awl machines, which pull a much tighter lock-stitch than any single needle walking foot machine; so any overstitch with a hook and awl machine is not nearly as detectable.

I'll vouch for that! My Union Lockstitch machine can filigree 5/16 inch of double leather belt. I have done this more than once. These machines are really harness stitchers, not sewing machines. They can handle the thickest thread available and sew through the densest leather, or even plywood and pennies. My Union Lockstitch sews with #554 thread, into a maximum of 7/8 inch of hard leather. When it pulls up the knots, they ain't goin' anywhere, anytime soon!

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

I thought you were trying to sell that beast!

I'll vouch for that! My Union Lockstitch machine can filigree 5/16 inch of double leather belt. I have done this more than once. These machines are really harness stitchers, not sewing machines. They can handle the thickest thread available and sew through the densest leather, or even plywood and pennies. My Union Lockstitch sews with #554 thread, into a maximum of 7/8 inch of hard leather. When it pulls up the knots, they ain't goin' anywhere, anytime soon!

[Wizcrafts]

I thought you were trying to sell that beast!

I am/was, but nobody wants to pay what it's worth. I just used it last week to sew together two layers of 14 ounce saddle skirting, into a 4" wide power lifter's belt. The stitch lengths are even, across two parallel rows and the knots are well up into the bottom piece. The leather was stiff, but the ULS didn't care! She just chugged away, happily sewing stitch after stitch, at the astounding rate of about 4 or 5 per second.

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

You know that as soon as you get rid of it you will desperately need it! Rule number one - never sell a machine even if you only use it once a month!

I am/was, but nobody wants to pay what it's worth. I just used it last week to sew together two layers of 14 ounce saddle skirting, into a 4" wide power lifter's belt. The stitch lengths are even, across two parallel rows and the knots are well up into the bottom piece. The leather was stiff, but the ULS didn't care! She just chugged away, happily sewing stitch after stitch, at the astounding rate of about 4 or 5 per second.