Contributing Member JLSleather Posted August 24, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted August 24, 2016 ive been thinking on this, trying to come up with a way to do a flat backed pancake, and i believe i understand it to the point of being able to make a pattern for the front side using basic math...here is how i figure it...make a pattern like you would for a regular pancake, marking your stitch lines using the 1/2 gun thickness plus 1/2 total leather thickness method and establish a centerline through the middle of the gun where the pattern is curved the least...lay the top piece of your pattern on a new sheet and trace the front half of the pattern...mark the start and stop points for the sight channel stitch line...slide the top pattern perpendicular to the centerline one thickness of the gun toward the back of the holster...mark your trigger guard/dust cover stitchline and trace back half of pattern...remove top pattern and connect the outside top and bottom lines on your new top pattern....cut and mark stitchlines...use stitchlines to mark glue lines...glue one side and sew, glue the other side and sew...insert pistol and mold...this method should allow for enough leather on the top to mold the full profile of the gun without having to mold the top before sewing...after it is all dry and such, you may want to look at it and tweak the pattern as needed...will this work? I'm not sure I exactly followed this, but I think we're basically saying the same thing in different words. http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Holster_Theory.pdf Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Red Cent Posted August 30, 2016 Members Report Posted August 30, 2016 I lay the gun on a piece of poster board. I draw an outline of the gun. Then I sketch the style/form of the back piece around the gun. I usually add suede to the back and turn the slick side of the leather in so it looks lined :). I cut apiece of leather strategically from the cow side, cut the appropriate throat of the pouch, wet the leather, throw it on the gun and stick both in a food vacuum bagger. Instant mold. After about thirty minutes, I cut the bag and gingerly place the leather in the sunshine. Meantime I sew the cosmetic edges of the holster. Sweat guard and sometimes the toe and the throat. Suede has been glued on. I don't do stiffeners. I don't like them. 'Course money talks. Place dry molded leather on the back, looks OK then glue. Cut off everything that doesn't look like a holster, sand and burnish, dye and burnish, then stitch front to back. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members Red Cent Posted August 30, 2016 Members Report Posted August 30, 2016 (edited) The easiest way to retain retention is a screw. Edited August 30, 2016 by Red Cent Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted August 30, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted August 30, 2016 16 minutes ago, Red Cent said: I don't do stiffeners. I don't like them. 'Course money talks. I'm with ya, actually. I usually include a 'stiffener' with my patterns cuz some folks look for 'em. But if you got two layers glued together, she's already 'stiffened', with less bulk and a smoother profile. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
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