macdaddytoolin Report post Posted November 5, 2012 I am having a terrible time with the F895 I can't bevel with it... I can't matt with it... when i try to bevel it doesn't go in a nice line like a like.. does anyone else have this problem it's choppy when i try to matt with it.. it makes lines and looks like crap HELP ME Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tnawrot2 Report post Posted November 5, 2012 All "F" tools are used in Figure Carving, it doesn't have a flat face (it is curved) so it can't be used for straight line beveling, and being not flat, it isn't used for beveling. Get a copy of a Tandy catalog, all beveling tools are marked with "B" and the Matt tools are marked with "M". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benlilly1 Report post Posted November 5, 2012 Yes, you're using a figure carving tool. Tnawrot2 is right. Get a Tandy catalog. I have an old version Tandy catalog which lists many more tools and shows each impression. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
macdaddytoolin Report post Posted November 5, 2012 I know this but say... using it for ripples on a shirt or using it for bumps on a horse for the legs and front part where the muscles are...? what do you use for a smooth mat?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
macdaddytoolin Report post Posted November 5, 2012 i'm working on the good shepherd... al stohlman uses this tool to bevel the different ripples in the cloth he is wearing... i'm just finding it difficult it leaves chop marks and it seems to not be in a good line do i use a smooth bevel rack tool? i just don't know i'm confused Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted November 5, 2012 (edited) some tools require a little moister leather than others you might try to spray some water on the leather where you are stamping then wipe off any standing water with a dry sponge this will make the leather easier to bruise when it is a little damper and may also require a harder hammer blow to get the desired texture. could also be the waves/ ripples in the cloth are cut with a fine blade then given a bit more definition with the tool are you using a piece of granite or marble work surface... Right? you might want to try a modeling tool like a spoon or stylus to get the texture you are looking for. could even use a small pear shader, just depends. I am not sure what you are trying to do so It is hard to say what will work. if you can take a pic of the area you are working on you will probably get a better answer of what may work. Edited November 5, 2012 by St8LineGunsmith Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted November 5, 2012 Macdaddy, part of the problem might be the tool itself. Are you using an F895 that you bought recently? I've found that most of the modern figure bevelers from Tandy have a very sharp edge around the sides of their beveling surface. With that sort of edge I don't think there is any way not to get tool marks when trying to use them. I'm lucky enought to have a set of old Craftool figure bevelers and they do take a little more skill than a regular beveler, but they are usable. They have very rounded edges so they don't leave sharp lines or chatter marks when you use them, and they are very good at matting. The modern versions IMO are almost useless. I've toyed with the idea of tying to file down the sharp edges to make them useable, but I have the old tools plus a couple of Robert Beard figure bevelers, so I'm not very motivated to try it. BUT - even with good tools, it takes a lot of practice to get those folds you are trying to do to look good. I've had some success with a lot of practice, but I'm not great with these tools by a long shot. Hope this helps, Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
macdaddytoolin Report post Posted November 6, 2012 Bob thank you for your post and also gunsmith first bob... I am so glad you told me that I just bought it and it's a craft tool and yes I know what your talking about I thought I was a retard or was doing it wrong i'm going to sand down the edge with a dremmel tool then see what happens and for gunsmith why does it matter i'm using granite or marble... i'd love to know and I will try to use a pear shader on some of the ripples kinda like the rocks I'm puting defintion on them thank you for the great advice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buzzardbait Report post Posted November 6, 2012 My Figure bevelers were made before 1963. The edges and the corners are sharp. and are made that way for precise detail. they take some practice ,don't tap them as hard as other bevelers. rock them back on the heel to mat, and smooth out the lines with a modeling tool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites