Singer 111W155 Timing/thread Issues

[dmar836]

Hmmm. Two and a half months later I'm wondering if Tom ever got his machine going?

Dave

[vpd66]

I have a 111w155 that I'm having trouble getting the timing marks lined up. When the take up lever is all the way up and I align my marks, the belt won't engage the sprocket. It is 1/2 tooth off. I tried adjusting the clutch as per the video posted in this thread, but by the time I adjust it enough the clutch is disengaged. Any ideas? The shaft isn't twisted. Could the belt be stretched? Is the clutch wore out? I'm not trying to hijack this thread. I just thought it would be good to add my problem to this thread.

[TSquared]

It is hard to believe it has been that long since I last logged on. I changed jobs right after the new year and have been traveling internationally. I generally leave for a week or two only to stop home for bill paying and laundry. Wife isn't real happy but it pays the bills. To answer your question, I have not put the old girl back together. I told Eric I would video the process and send him the digital file for his records. I got as far as buying a tripod for my Sony and setting it up in the basement. I know I need to get it done, I just don't have the ambition after being gone for 10 days at a stretch. I do feel bad about not getting it back together since Eric was kind enough to help me out so much....

I hope everyone is doing well.

Tom

[TSquared]

It is hard to believe it has been that long since I last logged on. I changed jobs right after the new year and have been traveling internationally. I generally leave for a week or two only to stop home for bill paying and laundry. Wife isn't real happy but it pays the bills. To answer your question, I have not put the old girl back together. I told Eric I would video the process and send him the digital file for his records. I got as far as buying a tripod for my Sony and setting it up in the basement. I know I need to get it done, I just don't have the ambition after being gone for 10 days at a stretch. I do feel bad about not getting it back together since Eric was kind enough to help me out so much....

I hope everyone is doing well.

Tom

[gottaknow]

It is hard to believe it has been that long since I last logged on. I changed jobs right after the new year and have been traveling internationally. I generally leave for a week or two only to stop home for bill paying and laundry. Wife isn't real happy but it pays the bills. To answer your question, I have not put the old girl back together. I told Eric I would video the process and send him the digital file for his records. I got as far as buying a tripod for my Sony and setting it up in the basement. I know I need to get it done, I just don't have the ambition after being gone for 10 days at a stretch. I do feel bad about not getting it back together since Eric was kind enough to help me out so much....

I hope everyone is doing well.

Tom

Sound like you've been a busy guy Tom. Must be the season. We started a large Jeans contract which required resurecting several machines that haven't been used since we made Levi's back in the early 90's. I hired an old friend of mine that I actually worked for back in the 80's. He's in his 70's and works about 15 hours a week for me. He's an absolute genius with machines and even though he works for me now, I feel like a newbie. We rebuilt 2 Reece 101 keyhole buttonhole machines just for starters. They are a beast of a machine. We're also making welding jackets for the Navy out of 5 oz. suede. I'm using a 60's era Singer 300w two needle chainstitch machine as we re-engineered the jackets. I built speed reducers, installed air needle coolers, and silicone lube resevoirs for the needle threads and looper threads. I'll put some pics up when time permits. We've been hiring steady for the last couple of months. We're also doing some waterproof garments for Filson. I'm sure you'll get your machine humming along as time permits. Take care.

Regards, Eric

[TSquared]

Glad to hear that your company is hiring. Things have not picked up much here in Ohio. So if I get you correctly, your 300w has air cooled needles. That baby must be moving fast to create enough heat to warrant air cooling. I look forward to seeing some photos.

Off subject, did you get to Starbucks?

[TSquared]

I finally got a weekend home. I put my 111w back together. I reused the original needle bar after straightening it in our shop press. I got it straight to about .008. Best I could do. The needle bar on my machine is about 1/4 inch. The bar I got from Eric was about 5/16 so it wouldn't fit. I have to admit, I should have put it back together sooner because I forgot the assembly procedure. I got it back together only to find I forgot the walking foot bar! I took it all apart again and did it right. The replacement dogs work great. The needle no longer hits the lower dog. Thanks to all of you, especially Eric.

[gottaknow]

Glad it work out for you Tom. I'm now wondering if the needle bar I sent was actually for a 300W. In any event, used needle bars make really good leather punches. Just grind the open end sharp, beveling it towards the center, then use a Dremel to cut a slot for cleanout purposes. Oh, and thanks for the coffee!

Regards, Eric

[TSquared]

My new job will most likely take me to Seattle sometime this year. If I make it out west I would be happy to treat you and wife for dinner. Sorry I didn't get the video for you. I will still make the effort when I get some free time.

[dmar836]

Tom,

Great news - another one saved! Hope all goes well with the travels.

Eric,

Awesome that American made clothes are beign made. It's discouraging somethimes but your company sounds great! And those machines sound wonderful. I would love a buttonholer but they are quite violent. Love them!

Doing some ball cap bills today with wool on one side and cotton twill on the other with .125 cardboard between. Skips a stitch or two randomly and that won't do. Thin Sulky 50wt thread and an 18 needle. I'll need to experiment some.

Dave

[dmar836]

Well, for some reason my needle bar was off. I set it multiple times with the instructions for those without marks on the bar. Today I took a chance and overlooked minor scoring that I had always confused with the marks and set it on what I could now wee - two marks! One would think results would be the same but it was not for me. Can't explain that as it should result in the same settings. Then of course I had to reset the timing and hook clearance. Then had to lower the hook a tad as the top thread was catching on the bottom of my new needle plate.

For the first time, it knocked out the rows on four bills without a skipped stitch! I didn't notice that tendancy to backlash and tangle when stopping either.

I think my assumption was right. With such a fundamental adjustment off the "top settings"(needle) and "bottom settings"(feed) were working against each other with a bit of overlap so that foot pressure was actually creating resistence for the needle bar as it was descending.

Huge sigh!

Dave

[gottaknow]

Well, for some reason my needle bar was off. I set it multiple times with the instructions for those without marks on the bar. Today I took a chance and overlooked minor scoring that I had always confused with the marks and set it on what I could now wee - two marks! One would think results would be the same but it was not for me. Can't explain that as it should result in the same settings. Then of course I had to reset the timing and hook clearance. Then had to lower the hook a tad as the top thread was catching on the bottom of my new needle plate.

For the first time, it knocked out the rows on four bills without a skipped stitch! I didn't notice that tendancy to backlash and tangle when stopping either.

I think my assumption was right. With such a fundamental adjustment off the "top settings"(needle) and "bottom settings"(feed) were working against each other with a bit of overlap so that foot pressure was actually creating resistence for the needle bar as it was descending.

Huge sigh!

Dave

You've come a long way there Dave. It's really nice once you get a clear picture of how everything has to work together. Most rewarding.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

Bump for Mia.

[mountain mama]

Hi everyone I am new to this thread , and fairly new to using an industrial machine. I began using a home machine when I was 5 and it was produced in the 50's or 60's and came from sears roebuck catalog. It is a tough machine and I still use it from time to time, however it won't handle the heavy duty projects I take on.

After several years of searching for an industrial I could afford, my husband acquired the 111w155 on a trade. I oiled and cleaned it up to the best of my knowledge and used it to complete several projects, including saddle blankets, ATV seats, and a motorcycle seat. I was up late working on my husbands motorcycle seat which has raised diamond design and while rolling bobbin, I unknowingly let thread build up under to bobbin case. After a very frustrating time I broke the bobbin lever and had to replace the bobbin case. ($29 ouch!)

After waiting a week to get it I was excited to put my machine back to use. During my reassembly I lost one of the tiniest screws that holds the case in place, which I haven't been able to recover. I put the remaining screw in the hole where that it would hold the peice in place without the second screw.

I began work on the passenger motorcycle seat. I completed over half of the lines for the diamond, the after making a turn to start another row the machine simply would not pick up stitches anymore.

I have read this forum searching for the why's and how's to fix it. I believe the time on the machine is right and threading is correct. Here is the two factors I believe is affecting my machine, maybe someone here can help me sort through this. 1st theory is that because new bobbin case did not have slight indention in front of tab, bobbin thread is not sitting in correct position to be pulled around by hook. My option to remedy this would be to take a small file and sandpaper and crest the indention in front of the tab. 2nd theory is that bobbin guard was not in correct position when I put it back together and it broke/blunted the tip of my hook. Will I have to replace the hook, or might it work if I use fine sand paper to sharpen the hook?

I became disabled a few years ago, and since then learned that I have a progressive nerve disease. I am on a very limited income and use my machine to fix things for our family and friends that we would otherwise not be able to afford. I even use my machine for tailoring my clothing. Using my machine is very relaxing for me and allows me to feel a sense of accomplishment, which I don't get very often since my abilities are not what they once were. I hope someone can help me get my machine working again soon. Any advice or suggestion of how to remedy the problem the cheapest way possible would be greatly appreciated. Thanks -Brittany

[gottaknow]

Without seeing a picture, it's hard to say. However, if the point of your hook is gone, you'll need to replace the hook. In order to do that, you'll need to remove the throat plate, the latch opener the presser feet and feed dogs. There are several steps and adjustments to accomplish this. Do you have a shop close by? I've had a lot of folks track me down by looking for sewing factories in their area. There should still be some down your way. Most factory mechanics work on the side. I did for years, not so much now.

Regards, Eric

[mountain mama]

You may not be able to see it, but here is the picture , the hook is barely blunted. My aunt has worked on industrial equipment for +30 years, but she lives so far away, and doesn't have internet. Thanks for help.

[gottaknow]

Your machine won't work right with the bobbin tension screw missing and the hook needs to be sharp, but in the correct manor. More later.

Regards, Eric

[mountain mama]

Update... I took a very, very fine file and was able to correct the bluntness of my hook. The hook will grab the thread and pull it around the bobbin case. I also noticed my needle bar was slightly out of position and set it... still have to go through all of the adjustments. Will update again once I know more about the problem. Thanks all!

[Trox]

Update... I took a very, very fine file and was able to correct the bluntness of my hook. The hook will grab the thread and pull it around the bobbin case. I also noticed my needle bar was slightly out of position and set it... still have to go through all of the adjustments. Will update again once I know more about the problem. Thanks all!

Use a fine ceramic grind stone after the file and do not make the hook tip any shorter. The fine ceramic stone will give it a fine polished surface. To coarse and it might fry the thread.

Tor

[brmax]

If i can bring this up without changing focus for a moment, i have a simular 212G double needle but not a walker, i wish. But its new to me and totaly a new adventure, The question is hook timing sometimes involves moving the gear below along with the saddle. I see in my manual and it looks to be Singer, the gap spec of .008 between saddle face and gear. Is this critical and how ? also if it is changed for a quieter operation is that cool. Its ran on motor today but not sewed, I purchased it at auction and going through it as a "starting point" I re motored it with a servo. Im at this point and any help from you all would be great. thanks and sorry for the interuption

[brmax]

If i can bring this up without changing focus for a moment, i have a simular 212G double needle but not a walker, i wish. But its new to me and totaly a new adventure, The question is hook timing sometimes involves moving the gear below along with the saddle. I see in my manual and it looks to be Singer, the gap spec of .008 between saddle face and gear. Is this critical and how ? also if it is changed for a quieter operation is that cool. Its ran on motor today but not sewed, I purchased it at auction and going through it as a "starting point" I re motored it with a servo. Im at this point and any help from you all would be great. thanks and sorry for the interuption

Skip it i figured it out, its not rocket science.

[gottaknow]

Good thing. My degree is in geology.

Regards, Eric

[brmax]

You made it, thanks Eric I should have started a new topic. Not a big deal i understand and will post differently next time.

Glad you enjoy your trade, the help here you offer is always appreciated.

sharp as a tac there, have a good day

[gottaknow]

You made it, thanks Eric I should have started a new topic. Not a big deal i understand and will post differently next time.

Glad you enjoy your trade, the help here you offer is always appreciated.

sharp as a tac there, have a good day

No worries. Not sure how I missed your post. We've gotten quite busy at the factory and I have less time online but I usually check in once a day. The 212 is a workhorse, I have several of them that we still use.

Regards, Eric

[dmar836]

So still working better. It still will drop the top thread down around the hook body if tension is relaxed too much when the needle is on the way up. Any way to add tension to the top thread(as it's traveling around the hook)? It is really only as I'm under hand power and allow it to backlash a bit - the needle might actually move less than 1/16". I just retarded the timing a bit and that seems to have helped the backlash issue when the needle is close to the material. I also increased the take up spring tension but I still need the thread to stay on the hook in that first 90 degrees or so if the hook is allowed to backlash just a tad. As is, it will relax on the hook and fall down around the notch in the hook body and I end up with an extra loop of top thread. It then either binds and breaks the thread or lays this extra loop in with the bottom thread.

I'm considering a 1541S as I foresee that I'm about to take on more jobs but I hate to retire this great machine.

Dave