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About vpd66

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    central Wisconsin
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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    hats, seat covers, etc
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    sewing machines
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  1. vpd66

    Pfaff 1245-706

    Looking for a Pfaff 1245-706 sewing machine. Let me know what you have.
  2. Oh don't worry I have no intention of buying one. I just thought it was strange that it has no following on the internet. Most of the chinese clone stuff have several reviews on Youtube or get brought up on forums, but there just seems to be nothing out there on these machines.
  3. Obnoxious link to an ebay fake leather sewing machine auction Anyone know anything about these machines? They don'''t seem to be the same has the Sailrite/Rex 609 style machines. Are they a clone of a different machine? It looks like they have sold quite a few but no reviews and no one has even mentioned them on the internet.
  4. Hmmm, maybe I have the only one that works? I'm quite impressed with mine. It's the only machine I have that can back stitch and hit the same holes right on the money even at 7 stitches per inch. I also have a Singer 111w155 and I like my patcher much better. It won't replace the Singer but it is my go to machine. I like the fact that I can totally disassemble my patcher with a handful of tools in about 15 minutes. It's just so simple and I have less then $150 in it!
  5. Do you own one or have you ever sewn with one? They actually sew really well and I consider them an excellent low dollar home hobby machine for someone that doesn't want to spend 4 figures on a sewing machine.
  6. In my opinion being able to hand crank sew with this machine is one of its benefits. Being able to sew one stitch at a time and be very accurate with your stitch placement is one of the things that I like about this machine. I know there are other people that have motorized these Chinese patchers but I don't think its necessary. Even when doing longer straight stitching I don't find it very difficult to operate the machine with the hand crank.
  7. Good job! Keep updating us on this style sewing machine. I think these are great machines for hobby use and I love reading about people upgrading and having success with these Chinese patchers.
  8. Also make sure when you stop sewing that take up lever is all the way up and the needle is up. I noticed on my machine that the needle can be raised out of the material,but the take up lever will not be all the way to the top (locking the stitch). That causes some problems on starts and stops.
  9. I have a 111w155 machine and I've been having the same problem since i got it 3 years ago. Somethings I learned is always hold the top and bottom thread on starts for a couple stitches so the hook doesn't catch them. Watch when you wind your bobbin that the thread winds across from one side to the other. If it doesn't the tread won't come off consistent and change the bobbin tension. When i start I always rotate the hand wheel to sink the needle into the material before sewing with the motor.How are you locking your stitches at the start? I was sewing 3-4 stitches, then lifting the foot and pulling the material back to the start and sewing over the 3-4 stitches to lock them, but it was causing all kinds of problems with tangling around the bobbin. Now I hand sew 3-4 stitches then with the needle in the material, lift the foot and turn the material 180 degrees and hand sew over then spin it 180 again and continue to sew. Seems to work better. Every once in a while I still get bobbin tangle at starts, but not has much has I did before.
  10. I always run a test stitch on the same material I'm sewing when I change stitch length. I don't trust the indicator numbers. Don't have an answer for the position of the needle bar. I'm sure someone will chime in on that and give you a hand.
  11. Hello, I'm not a machine expert either, but own the same machine and have tinkered with it. Mine also has 5 spi has the smallest stitch length marked on the wheel. I can get about 4 spi if I go a little past the 5 mark. I know it makes a difference on the thickness and how many layers of material your sewing. I also have the same problem with my timing marks and have just learned to live with it. My machine sews just fine so it doesn't bother me. I guess something (belt pulley, belt worn) is causing the marks to be off a little, but it is not that big of deal. As long has the hook passes the needle at the correct time it will sew just fine.
  12. Thanks guys!!! I loosened the 2 screws and moved the hook assembly over a little until it wasn't touching the needle. Tightened and lubed everything and now it is sewing great! Gregg that is one of the best manuals I've seen on this machine. I have the Singer manual, but it is old, the pictures aren't that good, and its a little hard to follow. Thanks!!!
  13. I had to replace my hook in my Singer 111w155. I bought a quality replacement hook and it went in good. The only question I have is should the hook touch the needle when it goes by it? My new hook actually touches and bends the needle over about .060. My old hook didn't touch the needle but was very close. I've sewn with the new hook and it seems fine but when I hand roll the machine over it feels like a bind spot when the hook passes the needle. I've read the manuals and nothing is said (or maybe I missed it) about the hook touching or moving the needle over. Should I bend the hook in a little so it isn't bending that needle when it passes it? I also tried a new needle and I got the same results.So my needle wasn't bent.
  14. Thats what I thought. I just figured it was poor quality import feet.
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