Dyeing Leather Lacquered Boots And A Wax Finish.

[koolio]

I've got these Loake boots that although comfortable always had a horrible shiny lacquer finish which is why I never resoled them and relegated them to gardening duties. They are the hardest leather I've ever come across almost like plastic (but definitely leather) and unlike other boots scratch terribly as shown on the photos below.

They are perfect project material and I'd like to experiment with them.

So first I wanted to get rid of the lacquer using acetone, or preferrably white spirit or isopropyl alcohol which I have plenty of. Then Fiebings deglazer then dyeing with a dark brown Fiebings.

Before I go on question is this, my preference would be to have a wax finished boot rather than a shiny leather finish (I've attached photos of an example), so is there any way to achieve said finish and if so what topcoat would I be putting on? I originally intended to put a matt finish on the boot. Any pointers would be appreciated.

This is the finish I'd like to achieve a waxy finish.

[koolio]

This maybe posted up in the wrong section, could an admin move it to the leatherwork conversation, maybe better over there?

[HellfireJack]

I would try sno-seal for that or a few coats of 50/50 mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil.

[koolio]

I would try sno-seal for that or a few coats of 50/50 mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil.

Hi hellfire,

Beeswax is what is used on waxed boots.

Doesn't really help me, is the top coat the same after dyeing as if I'd be doing a matt finish or is there a special top coat for waxed leather?

[HellfireJack]

There are some people who use just beeswax and neatsfoot oil as a final finish. You want something else that's not a lacquer product? You could try Bag Kote or Tan Kote from Feibings or perhaps one of the acrylics that are formulated to give a matte finish. Angelus Matte Acryllic Finisher maybe?

[koolio]

Thanks Hellfire.

So after dyeing I'd just apply the beeswax? Will this stop any of the dye running off however? Or would it be better to apply a matte top coat and then try wax?

I also saw a post about using denatured alcohol instead of Fiebings deglazer? I have a lot of denatured alcohol lying about, is it safe to use denatured alcohol instead on soft leathers as well as boots?

Edited November 8, 2012 by koolio

[HellfireJack]

You want to get most of the excess dye out by buffing the leather repeatedly until it stops coming off on the rags. You'll could still see some bleed off when you apply your first coat of whatever you use to seal it.The beeswax/neatsfoot oul mix should stop any bleeding after the first coat.

if you're using beeswax I would dye it slightly lighter colored than what you want the final color to be as it will darken your leather some. THen I would buff it and remove as much excess dye as possible.

I would apply the beeswax/neatsfoot mixture (Not just beeswax) and hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer to help the wax absorb into the leather. Let it dry fully and repeat two or three more times.

I believe deglazer is denatured alcohol with something else added. Can't recall what right now though but I would assume it's OK to replace for veg-tanned. By soft leather I assume you mean chrome tanned or similar? I don't' see why you couldn't but it's not something I've done before so I can't say for sure. Maybe someone else has more practical experience.

[koolio]

Thanks Hellfire nice to have a helping hand, I seem to be doing ok with just denatured alcohol may add some white vinegar into the mix apparently this gets it to Fiebings contents.

This how it seems to be coming out so far. I seem to just be stripping the darker top coat, however as one can see the leather is still very shiny. This got me thinking is there anyway to iron out the scratches on the front toes of the boots while at the same time removing the shine from the boots? I was thinking perhaps some sanding but as I don't know anything about this would prefer to hear it from someone who knows. The leather is very hard and almost plastic like it must be said.

[HellfireJack]

Sanding will probably make the scratches bigger and more noticable. The scratch is really just the removal of the top grain of the leather. Sanding will only remove more of that top top grain. It won't smooth it out.

You'd probably want to ask a boot or shoemaker if there's a way to do it. That's beyond just dying and finishing and more of a shoe repair question.

[Northmount]

There was a thread a month or so ago about fixing cracks in leather. Someone made some recommendations for a fix using something shoe repair places use. Try a search with some of the relevant words.

Tom

[koolio]

Ok thanks for the help will try and find this.

[shtoink]

Found the thread in question...

Looks like it was slightly more than a month ago.

Edited November 10, 2012 by shtoink

[koolio]

For anyone reading I finally just put these in the bin where they belonged!