How To Dye Properly?

[Matt Alsaker]

I experienced many of the same frustrations you are when I was getting started. There are tons of threads on here, you'd have to use a variety of different key words to find them all. I've settled on Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes, but might try Tandy Pro Water Stains down the road. I didn't like the water stains I initially tired from Tandy, but it wasn't the professional line. I started with a sponge, then daubers, and then a brush. I never got the finish I wanted. I now dip dye to get the base coat and then airbrush on any accents I want. If because of the color pattern I can't dip dye first, I just airbrush everything. The only thing I don't like about airbrushing is the thin coat of dye, meaning limited penetration into the leather.

[jsb]

Thanks again to everybody. TwinOaks, with "traditional" I was refering to every way of dyeing that doesn't use "modern" equipment like compressors . However, I guess you got me convinced that using airbrush is just another way of applying dye ... and probably one that is worth trying. So I have to learn even more - dyeing with brush, dauber, sheep skin, whatever ... AND airbrushing!

I read that the dye should be dilluted - using what and how much of it? I also still don't understand the differences when it comes to dyes. Acrylic, water stain, antique paste ... what is used for what? Or is it just a matter of personal preference?

Many, many thanks for all the tips and opinions and most of all for making me reconsider my attitudes and my way of thinking. I guess sometimes we (at least I) just tend to think too much "inside the box" ... thanks for giving me a push ;-)

[Dwight]

Just a couple of quick answers, . . . dip dyeing for me is very simple. I use two dyes (black and cowboy tan) at their 100% full strength. Another one I cut 50/50 with Feibings thinner, . . . because it produces a special color I like.

I use a 9 inch by 13 inch by 2 inch deep pan to dye in, . . . pouring in the dye, . . . the submerging the leather. I have two of them, . . . one for browns and one for black.

I use Feibings Oil Dye, . . . black and cowboy tan, . . . and another one that is a spirit dye.

I have tried air brushing, . . . have not become comfortable with it yet, . . . and really do not like the idea that they dye is only on the very upper layer of the product.

Anyway, . . . as electrathon said earlier, . . . it is quick, . . . uniform, . . . and predictably good.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Cyberthrasher]

I have tried air brushing, . . . have not become comfortable with it yet, . . . and really do not like the idea that they dye is only on the very upper layer of the product.

I was concerned with that as well, but found a post by Spinner at one point where he mentioned that he oils first and then applies a 50/50 mix of dye with the airbrush. The oil helps to pull the dye into the leather instead of leaving it on top. Doing that with a couple of coats, I've never had any issues.

For a thinner with the oil dyes (Fiebings Pro Oil) I use plain old Isopropyl alcohol with good results, but many people actually recommend using denatured alcohol since it's closer to the true base of the spirit dyes. I'm just cheap and I haven't had any issues with the Isopropyl at all.

As for the differences in the dyes (at least as far as my experience goes - I may be wrong on occasion):

Dye: Available in several different types - the most common being spirit dyes and water based. These dyes will actually penetrate the leather and color it, hence the previous discussion regarding the penetration of airbrushing dye. There are a few different types of spirit dyes, Feibings Pro Oil being my favorite.

Acrylic: These are more closely related to paint. The color doesn't really penetrate the leather and just sits on top of it, leaving it vulnerable to cracking and peeling. Some people have great success with them though. Personally, I'm afraid to use them for anything more than accents.

Antique: This is more like a shoe polish. It's meant to highlight the tooling and/or give an older appearance to the leather. It will color things, but I would think it would be hard to get an even uniform coverage. Usually you would use a clear finish over the entire piece and then apply antique so that it will settle into your tooling without coloring the rest of the leather. One more clear coat after that and you're good to go.

[LNLeather]

Antique: This is more like a shoe polish. It's meant to highlight the tooling and/or give an older appearance to the leather. It will color things, but I would think it would be hard to get an even uniform coverage. Usually you would use a clear finish over the entire piece and then apply antique so that it will settle into your tooling without coloring the rest of the leather. One more clear coat after that and you're good to go.

Cyberthrasher - You are right about using Antique, this is how most folks use it. How ever, like a lot of procedures and products there are other ways to use it.

jsb - Some of the things I make I only use Antique to color the leather (after a lite coat of Neatsfoot and time for that to dry some) and then when the Antique is dry I use it again to highlight the tooling.

My avatar is leather colored with Saddle tan Antique

and you might find this to be of some use...

Some Tips On How To Use Antique

Edited November 19, 2012 by LNLeather

[Cyberthrasher]

How ever, like a lot of procedures and products there are other ways to use it.

Definitely agree. Since he seemed confused on what each item was normally used for, I limited the scope of my descriptions to that. I highly encourage experimentation in art and doing things outside the box. How else do we find new and interesting techniques

[aksprince]

I use a dry technique I learned while working at a Leather shop in California, back in the 70's.

Use a piece of old T shirt say 8 x 8 inches and fold several times. Using the center and avoiding seams and edges put the dye on the rag (I prefer either Feibings or Angeles professional oil dye.) Next wipe off some of the dye on a scrap of leather or even poster board. You have much better control of the color and dye if you do not apply wet. Rub it off good on the scrap and then apply to your project. Yes, this wastes dye, but you will have control and it will not be blotchy. I never dye with sponges and use daubers just on the edges. You will soon get use to putting just a little on the rag and how much to rub off and how much into your work. This way you can blend several colors, darken the edges if you choose, and add antique pastes to richen the colors, as well.

I worked 30 years to retire and be a starving artist again. I opened Black and Tan Leather Shop in Girdwood Alaska last July.

I hope this helps. I am new to Leatherwork.net

[electrathon]

I worked 30 years to retire and be a starving artist again. I opened Black and Tan Leather Shop in Girdwood Alaska last July.

Hmm, you sure picked a tough area. Summer tourists and winter skiers. Nice area though. I grew up in Anchorage.

Aaron

[jsb]

Many thanks to everybody for all the valuable tips and explanations. I think I understand the differences and the different ways of using dyes much better now. I have tried the dip dye method on a piece of scrap leather as well as the dry technique suggested by aksprince. Looks like both work well, at least much better than my attempts using a dauber ;-) I will keep practicing. I also got some alcohol to dillute the dye - I guess that´s how it´s supposed to be done?

One question that remains is: should I or do I have to "prepare" the leather in any way? Should a finish or anything alike be applied first and THEN the dye or antique or whatever? Or does any kind of coloring go directly onto the leather?

Btw, I am a "she" :D (need to check if I really missed to mention in my profile)

Julia

[LNLeather]

Hi Julia

Hope you had a nice Thanksgiving weekend!

After tooling I add a light coat of Neatsfoot oil to the leather... after casing and tooling

you will find that the leather has lost some of its natural oil. Some folks use Neatsfoot - some use Olive oil.

Then I let it dry for a day before I

1. add color - or

2. just let the piece spend some time in the sun for a natural 'sun" tan.

I just use water to dilute my dye and

Tan-Kote to dilute my Antique

although, others may use something else to dilute...

*You may find others have their own preferred products or procedures, but I think this is a good basic plan to start with

and then after some practice you might try something else that you like better. Some times you just need to

practice on scrap till you get it just the way you want it.

Finish comes last - after the coloring...

unless you have an area that you don't want the color to stick..

read ----> Some Tips On How To Use Antique

Hope this helps