cjartist Report post Posted November 17, 2012 I have been lurking here for a few days. Reading all the great advice and soaking it all in while also working on my first project. I am still building my tool collection and have a question about lacing. What type of hole punch should I buy? I have thonging chisels but it looks like round holes would be better. Most of the punches that Tandy have are not geard toward the thicker leather. So what do the pros use? Thanks for all the help you have already been! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Josiah Report post Posted November 17, 2012 Cs Osborne rotary punch on lace holes and reg hole punch for mount studs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted November 17, 2012 Thanks Josiah! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted November 17, 2012 If you decide to get the rotary punch, don't skimp on the quality. Cheap tools can and often DO yield cheap results. Stay away from the 'economy' versions, try to get one that has compound jaws so that the punch goes straight down instead of entering the leather on an arc. Also look for well built, positive locking positions - that will help eliminate slipping if you're punching holes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadowryder Report post Posted November 17, 2012 (edited) I use a 2mm single cs osborne punch with 3mm lace 5 holes to the inch. gives a good tight finish with mexican braid. hope this helps JJ Edited November 17, 2012 by shadowryder Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted November 17, 2012 Thank you all for the advice. That braiding looks awesome Shadow!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted November 18, 2012 In general: Round holes are for round lace, flat holes (slots) are for flat lace. Best lacing punches I have found: http://www.vendio.com/stores/goodsjapan/category/lacing-chisels/catId=4252436 The most common one is the one listed as out of stock. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted November 21, 2012 I hear what you are saying about the holes. But looking at the others that are doing motorcycle seats, it seems that round holes are often used. Another question... I bought some 1/8" latigo lace to practice with and it doesn't seem like it will fit through 1/8" holes. Do you just have to force it through? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted November 21, 2012 I hear what you are saying about the holes. But looking at the others that are doing motorcycle seats, it seems that round holes are often used. If the lacing is structural, you want round holes. If you use slits it will be a lot more likely to tear out under stress. I don't know about latigo lace, but 1/8" lace should easily go into 1/8" holes. A lot of times we actually undersize the holes to make things a bit tighter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted November 21, 2012 I hear what you are saying about the holes. But looking at the others that are doing motorcycle seats, it seems that round holes are often used. Another question... I bought some 1/8" latigo lace to practice with and it doesn't seem like it will fit through 1/8" holes. Do you just have to force it through? Are you using a needle? The tighter the holes are the cleaner the look. I usually use 3/32" holes and 1/8" lace, I have to often pull through with pliars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted November 21, 2012 Thanks Guys! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted November 29, 2012 If you decide to get the rotary punch, don't skimp on the quality. Cheap tools can and often DO yield cheap results. Stay away from the 'economy' versions, try to get one that has compound jaws so that the punch goes straight down instead of entering the leather on an arc. Also look for well built, positive locking positions - that will help eliminate slipping if you're punching holes. Mike, which brand of punch has these features you describe, please? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted December 5, 2012 I hear what you are saying about the holes. But looking at the others that are doing motorcycle seats, it seems that round holes are often used. Another question... I bought some 1/8" latigo lace to practice with and it doesn't seem like it will fit through 1/8" holes. Do you just have to force it through? Also keep in mind that latigo lace is thicker than kangaroo or calf, the two most commonly used for braiding and lacing. Likely why it's filling the holes more than you were expecting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted December 7, 2012 Spinner, I think that is very much the case. I now have some kangaroo lace on the way. Gosh it is expensive! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted December 7, 2012 Gosh it is expensive! Yes, but it's EXTREMELY worth it. Just a note, if you're practicing, go get some plastic craft lace and save the good stuff for projects. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted December 7, 2012 (edited) Spinner, I think that is very much the case. I now have some kangaroo lace on the way. Gosh it is expensive! Yes, but it's EXTREMELY worth it. Just a note, if you're practicing, go get some plastic craft lace and save the good stuff for projects. +1 to buying cheaper lace for learning/practice. Superior Lace from Springfield or Tandy runs about $18 per spool, the nice Springfield pre beveled calf lace runs $25 per spool versus the kangaroo at $41-48 per spool. Once you get comfortable with the lacing & spacing & techniques, break out the kangaroo and you'll never go back. Edited December 7, 2012 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaverslayer Report post Posted December 7, 2012 When I want to try a new lacing style, I'll practice by punching holes in some poster board, then use the lace I want to use when I do the real thing. Once I have worked it out, I just cut the poster board apart and still have my good lace to use on the project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted December 7, 2012 When I want to try a new lacing style, I'll practice by punching holes in some poster board, then use the lace I want to use when I do the real thing. Once I have worked it out, I just cut the poster board apart and still have my good lace to use on the project. Good idea. I do something similar when I am experimenting to try and discover a new technique (haven't done it yet, but one day...). Poster board and ribbon work well together and the ribbon is cheap. That way if I screw up or pull too tight there aren't any kinks in the lace. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted December 7, 2012 Poster board and ribbon work well together and the ribbon is cheap. That way if I screw up or pull too tight there aren't any kinks in the lace. That's why I get the plastic craft lace, it's only about $2 for a LOT of it and it's about 1/8" already. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaverslayer Report post Posted December 8, 2012 One more thing that you can do, is, when you lace something and you have a foot or two of lace left over once you've completed a run, rather the throwing that short piece of scrap lace in the garbage, save them. This way you will always have pieces of different lace to try your new ideas with actual lace you want to use. Scrap can be so handy and helpful... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted December 11, 2012 All wonderful suggestions. Thanks so much! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
