Round Knife Vs Box Cutter?

[IngleGunLeather]

Chief makes an excellent recommendation on dampening the leather. I do something similar. However, I spray the flesh side with water instead of the grain side. Makes for a very nice clean cut, especially on the Hermann Oak.

Another alternative for sharp curves is to punch them first with a hole punch.

Edited December 5, 2012 by CountryTrash

[Big O]

I've just been using a utility knife, and sharpening the blades with one of those V-shaped carbide and ceramic sharpeners.

And cutting in 2-3 passes.

[J Hayes]

I use this utility knife with a hook blade. I cut with my knife under the leather and seem to do pretty well with it. I've cut 12-15 holsters with this knife and haven't sharpened it. This is a roofing one that I had on hand, curves aren't to bad unless they're real tight. For straight cuts I use my wife's rotary cutter and quilt mat and straight edge, shhh.

[J Hayes]

As I'm looking at the Osbourne knives, 70 & 71, I see them referred to as both round knives and head knives, which are they? Also I see a new one costs about $60 while a vintage one is $130 and some really really poor looking rusted pitted ones on ebay going for more than a new one as well. Whats the deal? Is the steel better in the old ones or is it just "antique" nature if them?

Jeremy

[chiefjason]

I've just been using a utility knife, and sharpening the blades with one of those V-shaped carbide and ceramic sharpeners.

And cutting in 2-3 passes.

If you don't have a strop you need to make one. Those sharpeners only do so much, and it ain't much compared to someone that knows what they are doing. I just ordered a new Osbourne #70 from Springfield and I had to strop it before I got started. Not because it was not sharp, but because it was not sharp enough. Take some leather and glue it with one rough side up and one smooth side up. Put some jewelers rouge in the rough side. After sharpening pull your blades across the rough side, but pull them backwards so they are not cutting. Repeat that on the smooth side. There will be a huge difference. I sharpen my box blades and have been using the same blade for nearly 3 months now. Here is my system. The strops are on the right side, it's actually 2 double sided strops but I used them to shot both sides in one picture.

As I'm looking at the Osbourne knives, 70 & 71, I see them referred to as both round knives and head knives, which are they? Also I see a new one costs about $60 while a vintage one is $130 and some really really poor looking rusted pitted ones on ebay going for more than a new one as well. Whats the deal? Is the steel better in the old ones or is it just "antique" nature if them?

Jeremy

A buddy of mine was commenting the other day that collectors were driving the price up. I would be the steel is better too though. I'm not a fan of some of the newer stuff. I hand sharpen and can get a knife shaving sharp pretty quick. The really hard steels make that tougher to do by hand IMO. I have tossed a few knives because they are too much trouble to sharpen.

And to answer the OP, I'm loving the new round knife. I find it much easier to make some of the cuts. The sharp inside cuts will take some work and I have been just doing those with the utility knife. I did manage to do one with the round knife tonight. I find that if I hang the cut line off of the table I can push the round knife quicker and easier than I could use the utility knife. I may be committing some type of round knife sin doing that, but it sure works well.

[lwm803]

I agree that there is a point where ease of sharpening trumps edge holding ability. If I were unable to sharpen my own knives I would place a much higher priority on edge holding ability. A knife that takes an occasional couple of strokes on a stone and/or strop consumes no more of my time than one that only rarely requires a more involved and intense sharpening session.

[bruce johnson]

To add my 2 cents in here.

I used box cutters and utility knives to start out and if a person has limited sharpening skills or equipment, then they will work well enough. They don't skive though. If you are on a budget and have some sharpening skills then a new Osborne or Weaver knife are going to be a step up. They are going to take some work out of the box, and at least for me are going to need to be stropped more and go to the stones more than the next tier. There are some great handmakers of knives - I have Dozier and Knipschield round knives and can sure recommend them. They are Energizer bunnies - strop every so often and go on. The price is only exceeded by the quality there. I have had some others I am not so high on. There are other options for cutting - hook knives, straight knives, half rounds, etc. My wife was blocking out some coasters yesterday. I found my rein trimmer outside on the glueing table this morning. She likes using that for cutting.

On the old knives, I like them a lot and have handled a bunch. Most of them have good steel unless they have been mucked up by a previous user. Better than new production knives once they are cleaned up? Yes I think so. An old guy told me a few years ago that a Rose knife is "harder than a wh*re's heart and stays sharper than a mother-in-law's tongue".

As far as collectors driving prices up on Ebay. Yes on some things for sure, but I don't think knives are generally one of them. There were so many knives made for the trade and still floating around that 99.99% are not really collectible. I'd wager most are getting cleaned up and put to work. I think the realized prices generally reflect the condition and probable usabilityof the knife. An average as-found old Rose or Gomph should sell for more than a new Osborne. Likewise a pretty good CS Osborne Newark marked knife should bring more. The cleanup on these old knives can be time consuming though. I have a minimum average of 2 hours on most knives for me. The old Blanchards and Rose knives are double the time at least.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

There you have it. Good sound advice from a good source. That is why I recommended Bruce in the first place. He knows his tools, and won't steer you wrong. Next time I buy a new one, I will go to Knipper, (if we are still around!) and for used tools, Bruce can't be beat. I am still using the CS Osborne Newark that I bought new, a bunch of years, and hundreds of hides ago. Invest in good tools and they will last you a lifetime.

Bob

[Ed in Tx]

The best blades I have found for a utility knife are Lenox Gold. They have a titanium edge and last a lot longer than any other blade I have tried. I bought a 50 pack at Home Depot for about $20. Don't waste your money on Stanley or other blades like that, cut out one holster and they are junk. I have used a Lenox blade for several holster cut outs and the blade is still good.

[chiefjason]

The best blades I have found for a utility knife are Lenox Gold. They have a titanium edge and last a lot longer than any other blade I have tried. I bought a 50 pack at Home Depot for about $20. Don't waste your money on Stanley or other blades like that, cut out one holster and they are junk. I have used a Lenox blade for several holster cut outs and the blade is still good.

I'm telling you, going on 3 months on a stanley blade. Sharpening will do the same thing. I'm sure those are great blades. But stropping a stanley blade a few times gets it right back where it needs to be. Worse case hit it on a fine stone then strop. I'm a diehard cheapskate so I'd rather sharpen my cheaper blades than spend more money on "good" blades and toss them when the are dull, even if they do stay sharp longer.