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Posted

Trox,

Thanks for that. I really would like to take it back to the shop that did the service but the darn thing is so heavy and it's upstairs in my shop above the garage. Just so hard to move... I will at least call them and try to talk to the tech that did the work. I really never asked them to adjust much, just clean and oil..all I wanted cuz it worked very well before this. Pretty sure I have the correct needles...

Posted

For the tension to work properly it needs to be around the one you mentioned on the side 1& 1/2x or else it'll do just what you say it's doing.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted

Yes, I know that and it is wound that way.. at least you agree that it's the top tension that's the problem...

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Posted

I sure wish people would remember the mantra. Loops on bottom, top tension.... loops on top, bottom tension. (though a lot of the time it just needs the top tension loosened)

A backwards bobbin will hose you up. I've had industrial machine people tell me it doesn't matter.... but I have news for those folks.... It does matter. While most manuals won't say "thread must unspool from the bobbin to the left." if you look carefully at the pictures.... it will be clear which way it should unspool.

It sounds to me as if you don't have the top threaded properly.

A teacher pointed at me with a ruler and said "At the end of this ruler is an idiot." I got detention when I asked "Which end?"

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Posted (edited)

Just went up to check how it's threaded. Looks perfect to me. The loops I was/am getting are when I'm sewing 2oz lining onto 8/9 oz product. Lining was glued on with Barges first. My wonderment is if I didn't let the glue dry/set long enough. I just tried some scraps of the same wt. leather pieces without glue and the stitch line looks fine...

Whadda all think here ?

Edit: Just looked at the bobbin and it was put in the wrong way... We shall see. Top tension seems OK and is done the way Bob's video shows it...

Also had to change the size of the needle to fit thread sizes...was too big..

Edited by Dogface
Posted

Bob has a nice threading video on youtube. Change the needle for a new right size and adjust the tension on the top to get the loops inside your work. If necessary adjust the bobbin tension too. If it still will not sew well report back to us. It is probably just a tension problem. However, when you said you had this machine for ten years I was certain you knew its tension adjustments by now. Thats why I talked about other reasons. You say you get your loops when you turn the work? remember to only move your work when the needle is all the way down or this can happen. It can also happen when you have to little foot pressure.

Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Yes, I've had this machine a long time but never really had to mess with the tension...just thread it when needed. It always sewed perfectly in the past. I will try the foot pressure though..didn't realize that would cause it. I think I took off some pressure to keep from leaving marks on the work. I have seen Bob's video, BTW...well done

Posted

Yes, I've had this machine a long time but never really had to mess with the tension...just thread it when needed. It always sewed perfectly in the past. I will try the foot pressure though..didn't realize that would cause it. I think I took off some pressure to keep from leaving marks on the work. I have seen Bob's video, BTW...well done

Yes if your work moves it can happen.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted

I missed the part about the glue, If it sews fine without. Yes, then you got your answer.

I use German "snell" glue or semi fast contackt glue (Kôvulfix). I have never had any problems with glue, However, I have seen others post about it.

Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Hope its working well now. Changed the bobbin position, changed to correct size needle, tried it with partially dried/set glue and seems to be working well now...at least on a test scrap... Thanks to all for the input and suggestions. This forum is awesome.. ;)

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