Fine Tuning My Tools For Saddle Stitching.

[kayrunp]

Hello,

I am using the osborne 2 1/4 stitching awl, barbours 18/3 linen and 00 harness needles. Sometimes I use a 2mm 4 prong craftool stitching punch. I do some thick 8oz belts and then down to 3-4oz wallets. I also have a 12/3 linen I use too. I am using 6 holes per inch. With the awl I have the problem of the diamond shape cutting to close to the other stitch hole when i go deep in the leather . Can i file down the size to shrink its sides?

I want to order some linen thread from campbell-randall and I don't know what ply to get because it doesn't list with 2 numbers like what i have. Is it the 3 ply and they are all 18 weight?

When I use the craftool punch it is a nightmare, huge diamond holes, it looks really big for the thread. I was thinking of switching to a kiewa, they don't sell the 2mm so i would need to get the 3mm. I am hoping they might be more tapered for the holes?

I also started to worry on the strength of the linen, i like using it and waxing myself but I don't want to see my stuff fall apart too early. I see from reading, a lot of people use sinew or the tandy sewing awl thread. Any feedback on these threads? what about the royalwood waxed linen threads?

I am trying to avoid buying the wrong stuff, I have already spent so much on things i didn't really need or like! It is so hard to order everything from the web when I really feel like i need to see it and touch it.

thanks for any feedback.

KP

[Jax]

Hi, with your awl I would put some small squares of leather on it to prevent you from going to far up it, you only need a hole large enough to just get your needle through.

You are correct with the linen thread 18 is the size & 3 the ply, over here the other thread I use is poly cotton, a no12 is the eqivalent to 18/3, & no8 = 18/4, I also use a no20 not sure of the equilant but its finer than a 12, I only use that for very fine stitching, for everything else I stick with the linen threads.

I must say that Im in the UK & the sizes may be described differently in the States.

With your craftool punch I would be tempted to use it very lightly so it only leaves a mark on the surface of your leather then use your awl to actually make the holes.

[JLSleather]

Yep, you don't need to run the awl clear up to the haft. Just far enough to clear the needles. Using 6 tpi, a #2 awl blade should work just fine. Make sure you are angling the awl blade correctly and the holes will be fine.

[King's X]

I use wine bottle corks on my awls to prevent the issue you are stating. I did have an awl recently break and I think that I will grind it down to a shorter length to see what happens. Either way, the cork works well because can be removed as needed. So, bottoms up!

[mlapaglia]

Sinew is not normally used unless you are doing period correct pieces. Linen 18/3 is strong enough. I have found that Tandy thread tends to break when I am using it. Barbors is probably the best linen to buy and you have to wax it yourself with bees wax.

[katsass]

From the grump: IMO a #00 sized needle is awfully damned big. A size #1 is my favorite, but I do use a #0 once in a while. Mike

[kayrunp]

Hey Grump,

I'll try some smaller needles, What brand of needles are you using?

[Mijo]

I switched from craftool's diamond chisel to Osborne's saddle chisel and have been very satisfied. I think the saddle chisel is about 7spi, but they also make a chisel for gloves (which I've never seen in person).

I've also ordered / used the waxed linen from Royalwood that I'm pretty happy with. I have a 1 lb spool of Barbours linen thread that I'll start using once I run out of the natural waxed linen from Royalwood. One thing I noticed is the barbours doesn't look as thick as the Royalwood (even though they have the same number of cords). That slight difference in apparent thickness might be due to the fact that the Royalwood linen is waxed. If you order from Royalwood make sure you can meet their minimum so that you can get the discounted rate, otherwise you end up paying a lot more.

[katsass]

Kayrunp, to tell the truth, I don't remember who made my needles. I bought a 10 pack about 30 years ago, am using two of them, and have the remaining 8 put away in a supply bin. The paper envelope that they came in fell apart some time ago. Mike