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Posted (edited)

Hi All! My search for a sewing machine continues... I just missed an opportunity for a Pfaff 145 (which a number of members here seem to have had good things to say about it), but the same seller said they have a Adler 167 available. However, I have not been able to find too much info about it. I found the manual and parts booklet, but those did not tell me very much info (that I can translate anyway). Parts do not seem as readly available either? Can anyone shed any insight into whether this machine is suitable for veg tan leather (double layer of 6-7oz on the upper end is my usual)? The seller said 'they use #21 needles with thick thread'... thanks for your help! :)

Edited by tostrap
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Posted

A number 21 needle will only pass #105 thread, which is an odd size. You might be able to squeeze #138 through the eye, if it is tightly bonded. This is not what leather sewers consider as large thread. #138 is upholstery grade thread, or can be used to assemble wallet backs to interiors, or chaps, or leather jackets. It has 22 pounds breaking strength.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted (edited)
Hi All! My search for a sewing machine continues... I just missed an opportunity for a Pfaff 145 (which a number of members here seem to have had good things to say about it), but the same seller said they have a Adler 167 available. However, I have not been able to find too much info about it. I found the manual and parts booklet, but those did not tell me very much info (that I can translate anyway). Parts do not seem as readly available either? Can anyone shed any insight into whether this machine is suitable for veg tan leather (double layer of 6-7oz on the upper end is my usual)? The seller said 'they use #21 needles with thick thread'... thanks for your help! :)
Edited by Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted (edited)

Hi Tostrap,

First of all information and parts on the Adler 67 can be used on 167, except from the hook who is bigger (same as the 267 machine) Parts are available from Dürkopp Adler, information is available on

http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html . There is many aftermarket parts available too; http://www.kwokhing.com/ .

Feet’s from the following Adler machines will fit the 167; 68,69,67,168,169,268,267 and 269.

It is an upholstery class machine and it sews up to 11 mm thick. Takes up to TKT 15 to 13 thread (Ticket No. metric polyester, equals to Tex 180 to 207).

Needle size 180 Nm (or Size 24).

When the manual tells you it is using the needle size 21 (Nm 130), it means the machine is adjusted with this needle. You can go several sizes up and down from this, as you can with other machines too. The 167 is a very good machine it has much better quality than its successor the 267. The 67 came in many different subclasses, when the 167 only came in two (that I know of) 273; two needle and 373; one needle.

In the 67 class the -373 was the leather subclass (together with the-73). The 167-373 is the same machine only with a bigger bobbin size. It has triple feed, double leaf springs for the foot pressure and uses needle system 134. It has maximum 6 mm stitch length and reverse feed.

For use on leather you can change to smooth feet `s and lower the feed dog in level with the needle plate (If it is not already adjusted like this) to avoid markings on backside of the leatherwork.

Alternating height on feet’s is adjusted on the backside of the head.

This is a much better built machine than the newer class 267 is, it runs like a Swiss watch.

Double layer 6-7 oz is about 5 to 6 mm, it will handle this thickness without any problems, I have sewed 11 mm veg tan on a 67 machine I had before.

As on all upholstery class machines (except the ones who are special made for thick thread) the limitations is on thread size. I have heard of people that have adjusted them for a bigger needle size. It is possible; however, they are not made for it and will not perform well this way.

I now have a DA 267 and a Pfaff cylinderbed who are in the same duty rating; I use maximum Tex 135 in them. For thicker threads, I use my 441.

Look for play in the needle bar and wear in the hook (like on all old machines). Genuine DA hook is about 160 Euro, Hirose about 100 Euro.

This was a very popular sewing machine; therefore, many aftermarket parts are available for it. Here are some of them:

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/DurkoppAdler167SewingMachineParts

I hope this was to some help for you.

Good luck and Happy New Year.

Thanks

Tor

(I do not know what is wrong with this editor, it is non responsive and will not let me adjust the letter size, you have to forgive me. I will ask Johanna about it.)

Edited by Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Tor and Wiz, again thank you for your knowledge and insight! Very much appreciated! Finally I found one machine thats actually in the ballpark! ! again, thanks and happy new year!! :)

Posted

You are welcome, and happy new year to you.

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • 7 months later...
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Posted

Hello, I am new to this forum and excuses for adding to this topic 8 months later, but I recently bought a used Adler 167-73 for making canvas and leather bags and I have a question about sewing tanned leather with it.

I had no problems sewing a single layer of tanned leather for a strap to the canvas, but this past week I tried a double layer of the leather and it just wouldn't work. The leather is 4 mm thick, so a double layer is 8 mm. The top and bottom threads won't connect and I hear a clicking sound somewhere in the bobbin when I try sewing this this layer.

I'm using size 20 upholstery thread with a size 18 leather needle and I am turning the wheel by hand for leather sewing (I don't have the control over the clutch motor yet for small detail work).

So my question is particularly for Tor, how did you manage to sew 11 mm tanned leather with this machine? Do I need a thicker needle and do I need to make some adjustments with the hook and how do you do that?

Best,

Audrey

Posted (edited)

Hello, I am new to this forum and excuses for adding to this topic 8 months later, but I recently bought a used Adler 167-73 for making canvas and leather bags and I have a question about sewing tanned leather with it.

I had no problems sewing a single layer of tanned leather for a strap to the canvas, but this past week I tried a double layer of the leather and it just wouldn't work. The leather is 4 mm thick, so a double layer is 8 mm. The top and bottom threads won't connect and I hear a clicking sound somewhere in the bobbin when I try sewing this this layer.

I'm using size 20 upholstery thread with a size 18 leather needle and I am turning the wheel by hand for leather sewing (I don't have the control over the clutch motor yet for small detail work).

So my question is particularly for Tor, how did you manage to sew 11 mm tanned leather with this machine? Do I need a thicker needle and do I need to make some adjustments with the hook and how do you do that?

Best,

Audrey

Hi Audery, I had a 67-73 ( who is exactly the same machine as yours, but older). I do not have this machine anymore, I sold it. However, I have a video of it sewing 11 mm. ( I believe it was bridle leather). The Machine was set up with a Cobra 600 w brush-less servo motor, and either a Nm 120 or a Nm 140 leather needle.

With the 120 needle I use TKT 40 (Tex 69) polyester or nylon thread, with the 140 needle I use TKT 20 (Tex 135) thread. I made a video for the person who bought it and tested how thick it would sew, myself I have heavier machines for thick leather and would never use it for such work.

If I had to use it for heavy work I would take every precaution not to break any needles. I would use Nm 140 and TKT 20 thread ( Tex 135 thread with Singer size 22 leather needle). I would glue or stapled my leather together first to avoid the layers to move and lock the needle. Use diamond or LR point needles and crank up the foot pressure to prevent the leather from moving (when the thread loop is formed).

If the leather is hard or old I would use oil, water or saddle soap to soften it. This is not a heavy stitcher. Nevertheless, it should manage 8 mm. if it is not too hard.

If you are using size 18 (Singer) equivalent to NM 110 (1,1 mm thick with a caliper if you do not know the sizes), thats to thin and it will bend away from the hook, because of the heavy thread tension you get sewing that thick. Thats why your machine is unable to make the thread loops.

With heavy leather the needle thread relationship is more important than with thin material too. Using the machine up to its limit every adjustment must be right to avoid stitch errors. What kind of thread are you using, does it have any TeX or TKT (Ticket) sizing?. Is the layers glued or stapled together? Check you hook and bobbin house for damages before trying again.

Good luck

Tor

Edited by Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Dear Tor,

Thanks very much for the response.

I will get some 120, 130, 140 & 150 needles to see if they will work…I don't think I need to go heavier than this?

My thread is TKT 20, I have both polyester upholstery thread from Gutermann and some nylon Serafil thread.

I didn't glue or staple the leather together, I just wanted to fold it over double and stitch it to make a round bag handle. I ended up using a rivet instead.

Thanks again!

Best,

Audrey

Posted

Dear Audrey,

when you fold the leather over like that it would not move as much if it is two different layers of leather. Then its important to glue or staple them together to avoid them from move and lock to the needle. A size 18 is way to small for the tkt 20 thread (tex 135), you need a size 22 to 23 (Nm 140 to 160) for that thread; Or else it would be in trouble. I have used tkt 15 (tex 180) on the Adler 67-73. However, its not made for any bigger threads than tkt 20. Any thicker needles that 140, check the distance between the hooks and the needle (to avoid the needle hitting the hook, its adjustable)

The 167 uses the same hook as the newer 267, 268 and 269 machines, you can buy a new hook with quick adjustable needle guide for these machines. (original Dürkopp Adler or aftermarket parts; such as Hirose and Cerliani)

http://sew24.blogspot.no/2011/10/adjustable-needle-guard-for-hooks-for.html

Both Gutterman and Serafil by Amman will work very well with this machine, I use the latter myself. The sizes Nm 120 to 160 as you have listed are European needle sizes, but every packet of needles are usually marked with Singer sizes too. Get some leather pointed needles either LR or D (diamond pointed). There is a pinned topic about needle sizing top of this forum you might find interesting.

Good luck

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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