Dye Your Own Leather, Pre Dyed, Or Combination

[chiefjason]

Just wondering what other folks are doing. I've been doing vinegroon black or just oiled for all my holsters. The vast majority are black though. I've got a lead on some pre dyed leather and some samples headed my way. I'm seriously considering it to cut out the time involved in dying. And since it's only a dollar or two more a square foot it's even more tempting.

So, just wondering what others are doing. I'm at a point now where I can justify spending a bit more just to save the time to do something else. Still mostly cranking out hybrid beltslides, but getting more interest in leather pancakes too. Trading a little money for more time is really looking good. Not to mention my real job has really picked up too. I'm having a hard time dealing with both.

[Haystacker]

I used to dye my holsters. I had very good success with the new water stains from Tandy Leather. But now, something new.

I tried my best to stay with Herman Oak or wicket and Craig leather. But the ordering process for drum dyed leather from Herman oak is non existent. I was told I would have to by 30 sides of one color. (sorry for rambling)

So now, I am into my second batch of leather from RJF Leather. I have bought the #1 backs in each color they offer. I really like the leather. It is North American hides (I think US) and is tanned in Mexico. I wanted to stay with US tanned because of the buy America thing.

Bottom line, I really like the RJF leather. cuts, molds, dyes, tools, stamps oils as good as Herman Oak and maybe better than Wicket and Craig.

[Itch]

For us with what we make we only purchase pre dyed leather..

[Colt Hammerless]

I got some sample swatches from RJF some time back, but have yet to use their leather. They have some nice colors. Good to hear it's working well for you Haystacker. How rigid would you say it is after wet molding compared to HO and W&C?

Chiefjason, I don't know whose leather you're thinking of using, but a dollar or more per square extra seems a bit much. I think W&C charges something like 15 cents more for drum dyed skirting. I think it's actually cheaper to have them do it than to dye it yourself, so you may actually save time AND a little money.

I'm thinking that I may switch to drum dyed some day, although I like some of the colors that Angelus has and don't know if I'd want to give that up. I'll probably at least use drum dyed black though.

Paul

[chiefjason]

Paul, when I say a dollar more per square foot it's based on a pretty crazy cheap price on the HO shoulders Springfield has had on sale. They were 5.99 a square foot. Decent quality for my first couple orders, better than the craftsman stuff. I'm doing a lot of hybrids so a lot of the leather gets covered. The last order had more issues, probably getting close to the bottom of the barrel.

I just ordered a Bridle Side, dyed black and struck through, that was $7 per square foot. Which is actually LESS than some of the HO and other leather I have tried. So it falls right in the middle of what I have paid over the last year trying out different leathers. And right in the price range I was looking for. The samples I got were very nice. One looked to be from the neck area, the others were belly. The neck piece had a back, flesh side, that was nicer than some fronts I have gotten. I had to look twice to figure out which side was which. I cut one in half, edged it, put some saddle soap on, and burnished it. It takes me days with vinegroon to get to the point I got to in a couple minutes with the sample. The edge simply needs no color added.

So, I'm in it for the duration of this leather. But if it's close to what the samples were I think I am going to be really happy with this change. I caught them between shipments so it will be next week before it ships out.

The rigidity is something I am interested to see. With the groon I dry it afterwards with a light in a shipping box. The heat adds some stiffness to it. I'll may try soaking a few pieces and not doing a few to see if the heating and drying process stiffens it. Or if it's even worth the effort.

[Colt Hammerless]

I know the shoulders you're talking about. I'm working with one of those 35 dollar HO shoulders, and a B grade HO shoulder right now. The 35 dollar one is actually a little bit cleaner than the B grade I got (more fat marks on the . Although the B grade was easier to cut as it seems to have a softer temper. I'm anxious to see how it molds.

Paul

[chiefjason]

This is off of the cheap 8-9 oz shoulder. I was very happy with it and so was the customer. That's a 5" 1911 but it's for a 4.5" so it's poking out a bit.

[frmntx]

I used to dye my holsters. I had very good success with the new water stains from Tandy Leather. But now, something new.

I tried my best to stay with Herman Oak or wicket and Craig leather. But the ordering process for drum dyed leather from Herman oak is non existent. I was told I would have to by 30 sides of one color. (sorry for rambling)

So now, I am into my second batch of leather from RJF Leather. I have bought the #1 backs in each color they offer. I really like the leather. It is North American hides (I think US) and is tanned in Mexico. I wanted to stay with US tanned because of the buy America thing.

Bottom line, I really like the RJF leather. cuts, molds, dyes, tools, stamps oils as good as Herman Oak and maybe better than Wicket and Craig.

I've done the same and can't agree more. This leather is priced right and as good as it

Edited January 13, 2013 by frmntx

[Ed in Tx]

I had a question along the same line.. My question is more related to the limitations when using drum dyed leather. I have been told that the drum dyed does not tool as well as the natural undyed hides. I have had occasions when my dye job doesn't come out even in areas where I have done forming. I assume it is due to the compression of the fibers in the hide. That is one reason I have considered using drum dyed even though it is a little more.

Can anyone tell me what limitations one might encounter when using a drum dyed hide?

[renegadelizard]

I have recently switched to WC drum dyed for the majority of my work. Every now and then, il get an order for a non standard color, and ill order some HO from springfield, but i have to say that the time i save on not dying and drying is phenominal, especialy as how it gets pretty cold here in KY. I ordered my WC holstered as well, and the temper is a bit stiff, but i dont tool so i have no issues there. It does make for an incredibly rigid holster, but cutting is a chore. I used to make hybrids, and if i were to start again, i stay with the drum dyed black..no smell and no dye transfer worries, quick and easy to produce...

[Driften]

What does is this mean "I ordered my WC holstered as well"? What do they do to the leather to sell it "holstered" and why is it good?

[Colt Hammerless]

"Holstering" is W&C speak for "plating" the leather, in which they press the leather (between rollers I believe) to compress the fibers more, which gives the leather a firmer temper. It seems most holster makers have this done, so they started calling it "holstering." In speaking with their sales manager Matt Bressler, I found that they even press it to different psi according to what the customer wants. I remember him saying that one of their big customers has them press it to 6000 psi. Another thing he told me is that if you get pre-dyed leather, some of it is struck completely through, and some is not. If you want it struck through (so that you don't need to dye edges) simply ask and they'll make sure you get one that is.

Paul

[Driften]

Thanks Paul for clueing me in on Holstering/Plating.