How Do I Use The Strap Plate W/o Feed Dog To Sew Tack On My Cobra 4?

[Oak Grove Leather Works]

Good morning! I have been using my Cobra 4 to sew holsters and knife sheaths for a little while now, and I just got induced to start making horse tack. The Cobra 4 instructions say to remove the feed dog and install the narrow slot needle plate, along with the adjustable guide wheel. I have done all that and when I try to sew, the leather doesn't move. I'm sure the solution is something simple, since this is a popular machine, but I'm not sure what to do. The machine comes with a holster plate, which I tried some time ago with the same results and a stirrup plate that I haven't bothered to mess with. I am hoping somebody out there can give me some hints on how to make these accessories work.

Thanks for any advice!! -Steve

[dbusarow]

Even without the feed dogs you still have the walking foot and the needle which are both moving the leather. The only thing I can think of is that you have the stitch length arm in the center position.

Dan

[Oak Grove Leather Works]

Thanks for the reply. I have the machine set for about 8 stitches per inch, so that's not it. I'm wondering if I just need to crank up the walking foot pressure. I didn't change that at all.

[jsmith]

Try going to 6 or even 5 spi until you get the stitch you want.The # wont match up with where you have been running it.

[JLSleather]

The 'cobra' foks can't tell you? I heard wonderful things about the 'customer service' there ..

[Oak Grove Leather Works]

The 'cobra' foks can't tell you? I heard wonderful things about the 'customer service' there ..

I haven't heard back from Steve, yet. I may have to call him.

Try going to 6 or even 5 spi until you get the stitch you want.The # wont match up with where you have been running it.

Well, the issue is that the leather doesn't move at all, not that it doesn't move the right amount. If I don't pull the leather along a bit, all the stiches go in one hole and jamb up the bobbin hook. I'm giong to try tightening up the foot pressure.

[Wizcrafts]

Back off the pressure spring until the material moves with the needle. Make sure you have just enough pressure to keep the leather from lifting with the needle.

Also, use one size smaller thread in the bobbin. If you have 277 on top use 207 in the bobbin.

Examine the slot in the throat plate for burrs or sharp edges and Emory them smooth.

Edited February 15, 2013 by Wizcrafts

[Oak Grove Leather Works]

So... Hours later... It was indeed the stitch size. It is now cranking out 8 per inch nice and smoothly. A little tension adjustment and it will be fine. Thanks for the suggestion.

[JJs Leatherworks]

I am still learning all about my Cobra 4 and this was an issue for me as well. You definitely have to play with the tension when switching the plates and removing the feed dog and the SPI you get with the feed dog will not be the same as when it is removed without playing with the stitch length adjustment. I have started keeping track of settings used for each plate to make it easier when switching back and forth for different projects and then doing a quick sample in appropriate thickness of leather before putting the 'good leather' under the needle.

It's a big learning curve, but as you learn the tricks, it is a great machine to sew with.

JJ

[Wizcrafts]

As JJ mentioned, the stitch length changes when you sew without the feed dog. What many don't expect is that the reverse stitches no longer match the forward stitches, at the old settings of the feet. I find that it is possible to dink with the point in rotation where the needle and inside foot makes contact with the leather, to almost balance out the differences. This is iffy at best, so I usually just watch where the needle is about to hit in reverse and pull down a little on the stitch lever to compensate if too long (reverse is usually longer w/o feeders).