Hardware For Tack Set

[cmantz]

I am going to attempt my first tack set. I have nothing as far as hardware is concerned. So, going through the Weaver catalog making up a list of stuff I need to order. I have buckles, d-rings, and my center ring picked out for the breast collar.

Now...what do I need as far as rivets? I am assuming these are pretty standard. What is the difference between the "Jiffy" rivet and the "tubular" rivet? Do I want a double cap rivet? What is the best choice if I have to set these rivets by hand? I am getting a spot/rivet setter but for now I will just do these by hand. What sizes should I have in stock?

What about chicago screws? Or would rivets be better? What size hole punch would I need to pre-punch these holes?

And lastly snaps...oh my, so many different choices? which swivel snaps do I want?

Thanks in advance..

Chris

[Chief31794]

Most tack I've seen is done with Copper Rivets and Burrs. They are the strongest available

Chief

[dirtclod]

Why do you want rivets in your tack ?

[cmantz]

All the sets I have seen have rivets where the buckles are attached (tug straps on breastcollar, throat strap on headstall, cheeks on headstall) How else would you secure the buckles?

[dirtclod]

Sew them on or that's the way i have always done it. You just bought a machine didn't you ?The stitching will hold more than the rivets espically the double cap ones and look a lot better to. When i see rivets in most things i think cheap imports.

[cmantz]

It never occurred to me to sew these. All of the tack I have seen, or at last all of the tack that I have looked at recently, had rivets...and this includes high end tack (or at least high end to me at $500 a set). Here are some pictures

So, you would recommend sewing these? They seem pretty narrow to me to be able to get enough stitches in there to hold them well. Also, not sure how to logistically get the machine in some of the areas...especially in the first image with the keeper.

I will ask when I call to order hardware what is the most popular size.

Thanks....at least I know to stay away from double sided rivets

[Josh Ashman]

Chris,

I mostly use #9 and #12 copper rivets and burrs, I also do some sewing and sometimes I'll use double cap rivets and chicago screws. It all depends on the application. Double cap rivets aren't super strong so if the piece your riveting will recieve much pull it's a good idea to sew it as well or use a copper rivet. Chicago screws are OK for attacing bits to headstalls or reins to bits but they do rattle loose and having your bridle fall apart in the middle of a ride is never very fun, I'll usually use a laced tie instead of a chicago screw if it makes sense and looks right. I've attached some pictures below to maybe give you an idea or two, the best thing is to look around at tack you like that you feel works correctly then build yours in a similar fashion.

Good luck,

Josh

[cmantz]

Thanks Josh...found a Tandy video showing the copper rivets and burrs (so know I know what a burr is ) Do you set these by hand (as they show in the video)?

[Goldshot Ron]

Chris,

For setting copper rivets you'll need a ball peen hammer, a rivet setter, and a steel plate or avil to back the leather for support when setting the rivets. I also suggest sewing your tack pieces and using rivets at stress points. I've included a couple of pictures showing a 1 inch wide leather breast collar which was sewn and rivetted at the stress points. Stitching adds strength, and improves the appearance of your work.

Ron

[Josh Ashman]

Chris,

Yes, the copper rivets are set by hand with the tools Ron noted above. I use a horse shoeing hammer instead of a ball peen hammer and I also keep a nail nipper at my bench to cut off the extra length on the rivet. I haven't seen the Tandy video but I'm sure i set them the same way. One thing you can do to "dress" them up a little is round off the rivet side, I use a double cap/jiffy rivet setting tool (the one with a concave side) to do this. It fits pretty nice on a #12 and works OK on a #9, just set the burr, flip the piece over and using the concave face of the rivet setting tool smack it pretty good once or twice with with a mallet or maul. You can over-do this so a little practice isn't a bad idea.

Ron's suggestion on sewing the stress points is also very good advice.

Good luck,

Josh