Tenleytown DC Report post Posted April 12, 2013 Would someone kindly point me in the right direction. For several weeks now I've been trying to come up with published techniques when using multiple Fiebings dyes (in my case on shoes and belts) separated/protected by some sort of resist or technique. I'm accustomed to using paraffin in a pottery situation to either prevent the clay from receiving any color (at all or at that moment of the process - or to protect a final step while completing colors in another section). Is there a corollary in using Fiebings' dyes? I've gotten reasonable good at blending in the dyes creating a patina, hue or amalgam I like. I am unable to discover a product or technique that will enable me to create crisp lines. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 12, 2013 There's not really any product that will "resist" dye reliably, though I've heard of people having better results with RTC Sheridan Resist. I have a bottle of that that I haven't had a chance to try yet. What I use is liquid latex from Woodland Scenics in this situation. You brush on a couple coats, dye, then peel off. It works well, but takes a little bit of practice to get it applied in detail spots. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tenleytown DC Report post Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) There's not really any product that will "resist" dye reliably, though I've heard of people having better results with RTC Sheridan Resist. I have a bottle of that that I haven't had a chance to try yet. What I use is liquid latex from Woodland Scenics in this situation. You brush on a couple coats, dye, then peel off. It works well, but takes a little bit of practice to get it applied in detail spots. Many thanks for the tip. The latex will work just like the wax - without turning the shoe into a torch trying to melt it off. Will the latex discolour the leather or the dye when applied/removed? Latex by logic seems much surer than a liquid chemical resist - completely sealing off the pores. I'll play around with it this weekend on some blanks. I have some Silicone sealant at home - I think that may be too rigid and permanent but now that you got me thinking I'll give it a shot. Edited April 12, 2013 by Tenleytown DC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 12, 2013 here's a couple shots of stuff I've done with the latex. It doesn't discolor at all. I hear they have it at Hobby Lobby. I bought mine on ebay though. It's made for making models for train sets. On these skulls, I did all my tooling, covered the skulls with the latex, then airbrushed black over everything. For the guitar strap with flames, I covered the natural stuff with latex, then airbrushed my blue on the flames (to keep the blue off the natural), then I put latex over the flames (at this point it's on the natural and the flames) and airbrushed on the black. Then just peel off all the latex, add my clear coat (Resolene) and send it on it's way . There is a little discoloring of the natural on that strap, but that's because I got a little overzealous with the oil and has nothing to do with the latex. here's a link showing what the product looks like. Gotta be careful googling "Liquid latex" http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/woo/wooc1204.htm?source=froogle&gclid=CNTzh_rQxbYCFaF7QgodODoAmw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted April 12, 2013 You should be able to find Woodland Scenics liquid latex (or other brands) at any hobby store that has model railroad supplies. I have also found it at Hobby Lobby and at art supply stores. It's commonly used to make latex molds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted April 12, 2013 Like Bob and others have said, you can buy it hobby (arts & craft) stores. In college, we used liquid latex for our water color paintings. I only mention this so you'll have another spot to look when you go to the store - in the watercolor/painting department. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tenleytown DC Report post Posted April 12, 2013 There's not really any product that will "resist" dye reliably, though I've heard of people having better results with RTC Sheridan Resist. I have a bottle of that that I haven't had a chance to try yet. What I use is liquid latex from Woodland Scenics in this situation. You brush on a couple coats, dye, then peel off. It works well, but takes a little bit of practice to get it applied in detail spots. You should be able to find Woodland Scenics liquid latex (or other brands) at any hobby store that has model railroad supplies. I have also found it at Hobby Lobby and at art supply stores. It's commonly used to make latex molds. Like Bob and others have said, you can buy it hobby (arts & craft) stores. In college, we used liquid latex for our water color paintings. I only mention this so you'll have another spot to look when you go to the store - in the watercolor/painting department. Thanks each and all. I appreciate that you have all taken time out of your day to help me out. I checked out Cyberthrasher's image gallery before I left work - the guitar strap was spot on with just enough blend and stand out to my eye. Sending the links showing the fresh crisp lines from your latex process is exactly what I was looking for. Receiving the feed back on other locations and uses brings me back to the old days using a library's card catalog. I often learned more being side tracked by the sub-headings and see also than in pursuing the original idea. I'm probably the only guy without a digital camera - but I'll update after I get a chance to try this out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 12, 2013 No problem man!! Post up what you got when you're able to get some pictures going. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
