Members Invasion Posted April 30, 2013 Members Report Posted April 30, 2013 I am in the middle of making a slip case for Kindle touch. I have dyed it with Fiebing's professional oil dye and was wondering; how long I should leave before I stitch together ? It is dry to the touch now, but obviously not properly dry. Thanks Quote
Tree Reaper Posted April 30, 2013 Report Posted April 30, 2013 It should be good within 3-4 hours, longer is always better. Quote
Members Cyberthrasher Posted April 30, 2013 Members Report Posted April 30, 2013 If you have the time, I'd give it a couple of days. It doesn't really matter though if you're just looking at assembly. As long as you can get to any area that might settle out to be not-so-good, it shouldn't be a problem. I usually wait at least overnight before I do anything else after dye. Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members Dwight Posted April 30, 2013 Members Report Posted April 30, 2013 Cyberthrasher beat me to my rule, . . . overnight. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members billymac814 Posted May 1, 2013 Members Report Posted May 1, 2013 I've stitched stuff up within a couple hours. As long as its dry to the touch your good to go, it won't get any dryer. I've even done it when its still slightly damp but I try not to do that if I'm using white thread just to be safe. The good thing about the oil dye is you barely get any run off so it won't bleed on your stitching. Regular spirit dyes almost always bleed on my stitching during wet molding if I'm not careful. Most of the time I dye then let them dry over night but it doesn't always work out that way. Quote www.mccabescustomleather.com
Members Invasion Posted May 1, 2013 Author Members Report Posted May 1, 2013 Thanks for the replies much appreciated I will try to leave overnight in future as you guys suggest. I am a little eager at the moment as this is all new My original thinking as if the leather is damp (although touch dry) it is going to flex about more when stitching and create more wrinkles/creases/lines on face of leather ? I went ahead yesterday and stitched when it was touch dry. It seemed to go ok but, I think I will leave overnight in future. More than anything just to slow me down and stitch in the morning when not so tired out that way I might do a better job! Thanks Quote
Members humperdingle Posted May 1, 2013 Members Report Posted May 1, 2013 Thanks for the replies much appreciated I will try to leave overnight in future as you guys suggest. I am a little eager at the moment as this is all new A little tip from a fellow newbie... Where you will be dyeing stuff, and waiting overnight to dry, have another project or two on the go... It'll take your mind off the other one whilst waiting. Quote
Members Dwight Posted May 1, 2013 Members Report Posted May 1, 2013 Invasion, . . . I am not sure how you are doing your project, . . . but there are a couple of things you need to pick up on. 1. Most, . . . indeed the MAJOR majority of all leather projects should be cemented or glued together before they are stitched. You did not mention this. 2. You cannot successfully cement or glue these pieces together until the dye is fully 100% dry. 3. Many people put stuff together without glue or cement, and most of their stuff can be found in the bargain bin at Goodwill or on the free table at the local flea market. 4. You also need to bevel and clean up the edges before you stitch the thing together, . . . and again, that is made possible only by cementing or glueing, . . . which must wait until the dye is dry. On a personal level, that is one of the reasons I don't dye most of the time until the project is completely assembled. Anyway, . . . welcome to the forum, . . . have fun, . . . don't take leatherwork seriously, . . . keep it fun, even if you are working at it. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members Cyberthrasher Posted May 1, 2013 Members Report Posted May 1, 2013 4. You also need to bevel and clean up the edges before you stitch the thing together, . . . and again, that is made possible only by cementing or glueing, . . . which must wait until the dye is dry. I see a lot of people who stitch things up before they trim and edge. Are they just being extra careful with their lines and spacing? I always thought the way you stated it was best, but seeing them do it (and recommend it) the other way always makes me wonder. I just haven't done enough stitching to really form my own conclusion Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members Dwight Posted May 1, 2013 Members Report Posted May 1, 2013 Well, . . . honestly, I have stitched first, . . . sanded and beveled, . . . burnished. BUT, . . . by getting the outside edges done first, . . . it gives you a really good edge from which to gouge your stitch line (which I almost always do, . . . ) and then your stitches will naturally be the proper distance from the edge with no trouble. I have occasionally ran into a bad piece, . . . wrinkle, . . . whatever in sanding the edge, . . . and had to go deeper than I planned from my original edge. Since I had not stitched, . . . I'm the only one who knew. If I had stitched first, . . . uhhh, . . . it would have been ugly. My reasoning isn't perfect, . . . but it works to save me time and leather, . . . May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
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