Members Cyberthrasher Posted May 1, 2013 Members Report Posted May 1, 2013 My reasoning isn't perfect, . . . but it works to save me time and leather, . . . Sounds right to me I just wanted to make sure I was on the same page. Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members paprhangr Posted May 10, 2013 Members Report Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) I have read that after oil dye has dried, the leather needs a coat of neetsfoot oil helps moisten leather, because the alcohol in the dye Drys it up? What do you guys think Edited May 10, 2013 by paprhangr Quote
Members Dwight Posted May 10, 2013 Members Report Posted May 10, 2013 This is another one of those "some do, . . . some don't" situations. I usually do if I use one of the spirit dyes, . . . because it usually does feel dryer. But if I used oil dye, . . . especially the black, . . . I very seldom do that. There is a catch 22 deal there, . . . the oil "should" prolong the life of the leather, . . . but it also softens it, making the item less useful if not useless. One maker who is on here sometimes said he gives it one light coat, . . . on the hair side, . . . then allows that to fully absorb before he does anything else. It's not a "must do" either way. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members Cyberthrasher Posted May 10, 2013 Members Report Posted May 10, 2013 I prefer to give things a light coat of oil - nowhere near soaking it. If you're using it to soften the leather, you're actually going to help speed any rot because it's going to over saturate (hence the softness). I also find that it helps to even out some dyes as well when applied lightly. But.... if I have a piece with some aspects left natural, or even parts that are drastically different in dyed color, I always apply it to the flesh side and let it soak in that way. Otherwise, the oil can darken my natural stuff too much, or the act of oiling can lift pigment and spread it around into other areas - even after rigorous buffing. Then there are other "cheap" pieces that I oil because the leather is pretty dried out, just enough to put some of the life back into it since it's either been sitting too long, or it was just a poor tanning job (sometimes you just gotta have some leather and therefore cheap is all you can afford). Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members cmantz Posted May 16, 2013 Members Report Posted May 16, 2013 If I am doing a piece of veg tan and I want to darken the leather slightly (so I end up with a light oil finish), what type of oil would you recommend? I tried to dye it a scrap piece with Fiebings Pro Oil in Lt Brown but I am not sure what I did but it is more of a med brown. And I oil after I stamp it, correct? Quote Christine Mantz www.tacktemplates.com Specializing in acrylic templates for tack makers **TACK SETS - HALTER SETS - SPECIALTY - DELRIN STAMPS** We also offer custom acrylic templates and laser service on leather blanks
Members Dwight Posted May 16, 2013 Members Report Posted May 16, 2013 A couple of things you can try, . . . because I don't know your definition of "light". One simple and quick pass with a brush of neatsfoot oil darkens it somewhat. The same goes for one coat of Resolene, though the Resolene is only about half the oil. You can also lay it out in the bright sunlight, . . . that will darken it some. Personally, . . . I don't like doing browns, . . . it is really hard to match 1 for 1 unless the pieces all came from the same hide, . . . dyed the same day, . . . out of the same bucket, . . . etc. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members Cyberthrasher Posted May 16, 2013 Members Report Posted May 16, 2013 Oil dye is still dye, so you're going to get that color out of it. It sounds like you're wanting to get an oil tanned color. In that case, just apply neatsfoot oil (pure) to the project and let it darken. here's an example of one I did where I just used oil on it, no dye. Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members cmantz Posted May 16, 2013 Members Report Posted May 16, 2013 yeah...definitely on this I think I will just use NFO. I tried a scrap where I stamped it and then tried to apply pro oil dye with sponge. Didn't work out. Too dark on top but no color in the stamped areas. I have also played with the Fiebings Antique stain but didn't want that look. I know the veg tan with darken over time but trying to get somewhat close on a headstall to an existing breast collar....this is my first attempt at stamping a BW and my first attempt at using veg tan. All the other stuff I have done has been with colored leather and overlays and such. It doesn't help that I way UNDERPRICED this job! Ok....just to clarify. I stamp the BW and then oil. let dry and apply something like resolene or leather sheen, correct? Should I do that to all the piece before I actually construct the headstall? or do I do the finish last after sewing? Quote Christine Mantz www.tacktemplates.com Specializing in acrylic templates for tack makers **TACK SETS - HALTER SETS - SPECIALTY - DELRIN STAMPS** We also offer custom acrylic templates and laser service on leather blanks
Members Cyberthrasher Posted May 16, 2013 Members Report Posted May 16, 2013 I don't know anything about headstalls, but normally I would try to completely finish an item before assembly. But yeah, you will want to apply some kind of finish over the top to protect it. That strap has Resolene on it. Also, be sure to give the oil quite some time to soak in before adding more to adjust the color. I like overnight, if not a full day. And remember, don't saturate it with oil. Just put light coats on to change the color. If you saturate it you'll run the risk of destroying the leather's integrity. The reason your sponge job didn't work is probably because you didn't have enough in it to squeeze out and into the tooling. You were essentially block dying it. Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members cmantz Posted May 17, 2013 Members Report Posted May 17, 2013 What is the difference between Neatsfoot Oil Compound and 100% pure neatsfoot oil? Quote Christine Mantz www.tacktemplates.com Specializing in acrylic templates for tack makers **TACK SETS - HALTER SETS - SPECIALTY - DELRIN STAMPS** We also offer custom acrylic templates and laser service on leather blanks
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