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I just wanted to add to this a bit more. It had to take a short trip to the back burner while I took care of some school related stuff.

I had finally come up with exactly how I wanted to do the hinges and it turned out to be far simpler, and cheaper, than I originally anticipated. As it turns out, I didn't need to locate ant fancy hinges that would demolish my budget. All I needed was to integrate some ball bearings into a trunnion style of hinge. It's one of those instances where several sentences trying to explain would still leave you confused, so I present you with a couple pictures worth a bunch of words.

post-32478-0-57637600-1375232981_thumb.j

post-32478-0-67238200-1375233009_thumb.j

The bearing sizes are not critical, and the don't really even need to match, but that'd help in the long run when trying to line all your stuff up. The main thing to take away from this is that the bearings be small enough to fit within the thickness of the wood chosen and large enough to be able to support the weight of a full rack of tools. I would recommend sealed ones and not the generic, unshielded type in my renders.

I did decide on using some 1/4" thick oak and will be cutting bits and pieces as needed from the stock I chose. I also plan on tacking the insert into the case with small brads, so they are less visible, too.

Another thing worth noting is that I have also worked out how I want to raise and lower the tool rack, too. It'll be something similar to the lift mechanism for those old Tonka dump trucks from way back-when. The idea is to have it lift the rack and then lock into position to keep the tools accessible. This will eliminate the need to keep opening and closing it when working from your toolbox.

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Posted

This is a super cool thread :thumbsup:

Great idea for such a nice old case.

I like how you are going through your thought and idea process on here. Gonna follow along

Posted

My input: You are way overcomplicating the pivot. A couple cabinet door offset hinges would be very cheap and be fast and easy. You also need the offset to fix the problem with the lid intruding below the line when it is opened. This will likely interfere with the case, depending on if you make the insert thicker than the case bottom. Also, there is no reason for the second bearing and the slot. Really serves no purpose. There also is no need for bearings in the first place. They are very expensive and serve no purpose at the speed you will be opening and closing the lid. A single nail would make a very functional pivot. Plywood is less prone to cracking when it is so thin, but regular wood is better looking (form over function verses function over form). If you were closer and really want solid wood I could plain you down a few pieces. Aaron

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Posted

Aaron, the pivot is not complex, just more sophisticated than a single nail. Plus, it pushes the DIY to a new level, and looks more like a finely developed product. You could even add a friction clutch bearing and a pneumatic piston on a small scale so it would deploy on its own when opened. Why not strive for something excellent? Planing some wood or MDF would be cool as hell, especially if it was then covered in calfskin or something.

I like to think big, and to things exceptional. A bushing might be less costly, a dowel less so. But imagine how smooth it could be as is?

Just my perspective on a cool idea.

 

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Posted

The second bearing is going to cause binding unless you have the slot cut either perfect or too wide. It serves no purpose. There is no guide needed, your pivot is on the other bearing. The Tonka truck lift rod is a simple and good idea, put a bushing on it if you want smooth. Small bearings are very expensive and hard to find. You sound like an engineer guy so I am betting you have computer parts laying around. Bust open a hard drive and you will find a couple small bearings. Likely not as small as you are looking for but could save you a hundred dollar bill if you are going to use four.

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  On 7/31/2013 at 4:39 AM, immiketoo said:

You could even add a friction clutch bearing and a pneumatic piston on a small scale so it would deploy on its own when opened.

Actuating the pneumatic pistons by pressing down and releasing on the block...

Having the block return and stay by pressing down until it clicked...

You have no idea how hard I just geeked out on that one alone!

Just imaging the sound of tiny pneumatic pistons in action was enough to bring a smile to my face. *click-click* *PSSsssssskt* But it's be in stereo, because there'd be two of them working in unison.

I had so many fantastic what-if ideas swirl through my head. It was like imagining a tiny Transformer with all sorts of gadgetry all concealed up inside. Maybe even like of of those super cool pencil cases from Japan with all sorts of compartments and swiveling or sliding-out doodads that are activated by buttons of push-releases.

Whew! I almost hurt myself there...

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Posted

Yup! I actually got a dozen of some small flanged ones for less that $6. They only came in a pack of a dozen, but I'll save the rest for another project later. I have about 100 or so various sized bearings waiting for different, yet known projects. They don't take up much room, so I don't mind the extras. Besides, you never know when you'll find a use for them.

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Posted
  On 7/31/2013 at 5:23 AM, electrathon said:

......a hundred dollar bill if you are going to use four.

Would those be gold plated bearings with jeweled insides you are talking about?

(John 8:32) And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free. (KJV)

And the truth is that religion is nothing more than the lame attempt by largely ignorant people to

bring sense and order to a world that was beyond their comprehension. Once you see religion for the

delusional and superstitious artifact it is............... you will be free !

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